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General question about Miniature Schnauzers



 
 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old December 27th 04, 06:37 PM
rutledj@rjrt.com
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Default General question about Miniature Schnauzers

I just have a few questions about Miniature Schnauzers. We are getting
one next week and this will be our first indoor dog.

I have purchased a crate for the dog.

Do you normally put a dog bed in the crate? Since my wife and I both
work it will be in the crate during the day.

What is the purpose of making the crate smaller (by using the included
divider) while it's still a puppy? Does it hurt to have more room than
you need?

How do you handle potty training under the circumstances where both
owners are at work during the day? Can a dog be "house broken" during
just the evening/night hours? Also, do you normally leave a dog in the
crate to sleep at night or allow it to have a bed outside the crate as
well as inside?


Grooming: I noticed several different grooming brushes at the pet
store. All wire, all bristle, oval with wire, rectagular with a lot of
wires, double-sided metal/bristle. What works best for this breed?
Thanks,
Rut

  #2 (permalink)  
Old December 27th 04, 07:00 PM
Sionnach
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Default


wrote:

Do you normally put a dog bed in the crate? Since my wife and I both
work it will be in the crate during the day.


This question, like most of what you've asked, isn't specific to
Schnauzers, so I'll answer. (I have a JRT, a Redbone Chowhound, and a
lurcher.) :-)
I wouldn't put a dog *bed* in with a small puppy, because the chance of
chewing - with the consequent risk of choking on chewed up bits, or getting
an intestinal blockage from swallowing them - is too high.
I would, however, put in a chew-resistant crate pad.


What is the purpose of making the crate smaller (by using the included
divider) while it's still a puppy?


To avoid the problem of the puppy using the space away from the sleeping
area as a potty. The idea behind using a crate to help with housebreaking is
that dogs won't normally eliminate where they sleep. If there's a lot of
room, the pup may see part of the crate as "non bed".


How do you handle potty training under the circumstances where both
owners are at work during the day?


If this is a young puppy, you need to either arrange to take time off from
work, arrange to be able to come home during the day, or pay someone to come
in and take the puppy out.
If you don't, odds are good that the pup will be FORCED to pee/poop in the
crate, and that usually causes major problems.

Can a dog be "house broken" during
just the evening/night hours?


Not if the dog is too physically immature to be able to "hold it" all day.
If you absolutely can't arrange to have the dog taken out during the day,
then you need to scrap the idea of the crate, and instead puppy-proof a
room, and put pee pads or newspaper down.
That method has its own problems, but they're easier to deal with than a
dog who is forced to learn to eliminate where s/he sleeps.

Also, do you normally leave a dog in the
crate to sleep at night or allow it to have a bed outside the crate as

well as inside?

*I* normally have my dogs sleep in the bed with me, even as baby puppies.
It's an excellent way to bond with the dog, and makes it very easy to know
when a young puppy has to go out in the morning or during the night.
If you don't want to do that, then IMO you should put the crate or a dog
bed in your bedroom. If you use a dog bed, rather than the crate, at night,
then you need to be prepared to deal with the fact that the dog may wander
to another area of the room and eliminate if you don't wake up when s/he
needs to go.

As far as beds outside the crate in general- I don't use crates at home
past baby puppyhood, and my dogs have their own spots to lie in several
different places in the house.


  #3 (permalink)  
Old December 27th 04, 07:08 PM
Rocky
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Rut said in rec.pets.dogs.breeds:

I just have a few questions about Miniature Schnauzers. We
are getting one next week and this will be our first
indoor dog.


I'm always confused by the phrase "indoor dog", but no matter.

I have purchased a crate for the dog.

Do you normally put a dog bed in the crate? Since my wife
and I both work it will be in the crate during the day.


[I'm using "him" and "he" when referring to your new puppy
because you didn't mention the sex.]

A bed is a good idea, though not necessary, especially if your
dog uses it as a toy and decides to shred it. The other
downside to anything absorbent in the crate is that it soaks up
pee, if your dog pees on it - this may not sound like a bad
thing, but the short term discomfort of lying in his own pee
will help teach him that peeing in his crate is not a good
thing.

As to working all day, hopefully one of you can make it home at
lunchtime for an exercise/pee break. A puppy can't hold it all
day.

What is the purpose of making the crate smaller (by using
the included divider) while it's still a puppy? Does it
hurt to have more room than you need?


It can hurt. If the crate is too large, the puppy may learn to
use the extra space as a potty area. Plus, a crate is the dog's
comfort zone - as he becomes more comfortable in his new home
without his littermates, you can expand his comfort zone.

That's the general idea behind crate training - it's not just
for pee control, it also helps with potential destruction
problems like boredom- or anxiety-related chewing issues. As
the dog becomes more sure in his surrounds, you gradually
increase his zone of responsibility until he's ultimately
"guarding" the entire house.

How do you handle potty training under the circumstances
where both owners are at work during the day? Can a dog be
"house broken" during just the evening/night hours? Also,
do you normally leave a dog in the crate to sleep at night
or allow it to have a bed outside the crate as well as
inside?


I mentioned coming home in the middle of the day - this is a
must. If you can't work that out, hire a pet walker or
neighbourhood kid.

While you're home, put the dog on a pee schedule - you can't
expect a puppy to give you the "I need to go signal". Plus,
young dogs typically know that they need to go nanoseconds
before they go. Take your dog outside (I prefer to train my
dogs to a special area where I don't mind dead lawn) every hour,
before play, after play, before he sleeps, after he sleeps, and
right after meals - and yes, even at 2 am. The good thing is
that you'll probably only have to do one midnight run. Praise
and treat the dog when he goes - you'll also be able to put a
command on the act. "Go pee" and "good pee" is what I use.

Supervise him - don't let him make a mistake.

At night: if you crate him, put the crate right next to your bed
(or your wife's if she's the lighter sleeper). You'll be able
to hear him for his 2 am appointment outside. Plus, this is a
good bonding time - he can hear and smell you. Don't forget
that he's used to a litter.

I've never crated any of my dogs at night past 16 weeks. To me
night time is a great time to jump start the dog into getting
used to a larger space. As far as the dog's concerned, I'm
there to supervise. I'm a light sleeper, though, so your
mileage may vary.

Grooming: I noticed several different grooming brushes at
the pet store. All wire, all bristle, oval with wire,
rectagular with a lot of wires, double-sided metal/bristle.
What works best for this breed?


Wait for Judy on this one. Plus, you should read her recent
post in the "Schanuzer" thread started on the 26th.

--
--Matt. Rocky's a Dog.
  #4 (permalink)  
Old December 27th 04, 09:23 PM
Judy
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"Rocky" wrote in message
...
Rut said in rec.pets.dogs.breeds:

I just have a few questions about Miniature Schnauzers. Grooming: I

noticed several different grooming brushes at
the pet store. All wire, all bristle, oval with wire,
rectagular with a lot of wires, double-sided metal/bristle.
What works best for this breed?


Wait for Judy on this one.


Okay. I'll jump in then. The rest of the questions are pretty generic for
all breeds so I'll just let the other answers stand. I do wonder how old
the pup is - was that ever mentioned?

What works best depends first on the type of coat that you are planning to
keep on your dog. No matter what, for the leg hair and beard and brows,
you'll want a metal greyhound comb. (I don't know why they're called that -
but that's what they'll be called. The spacing comes in a couple of
choices - I think I have both - either will work.) Outside of all the stuff
used for actual grooming (every six weeks or so), all I ever use is a
greyhound comb. No brushes. Depending on what they've been doing, my dogs
may get combed two days in a row and then not for a couple of weeks. It
should be once a week minimum. I have my hands on them most of the time so
if I feel a mat forming on one of them, they both get combed. And if
they've been eating anything messy, it's always good to run a comb through
the beard. And the greyhound combs work great for removing burdocks or
whatever debris they pick up in the brush. The beards do collect stuff.
You do NOT want to ever feed a schnauzer rawhide if for no other reason than
this!

In terms of the rest, if you are planning to have the back and sides
clipped - as most are if they're aren't being shown - then there really
isn't much to comb or brush there. The hair will be short and isn't going
to shed out so there's really no need. If mine are overdue for a clipping,
there is enough hair there to brush or comb but no reason to do it. It
won't ever get long enough to need it. Most dogs are brushed to keep loose
hair cleaned out - this is not an issue with a schnauzer. If it's just
before a clipping and they pick up burdocks or something on their backs, the
greyhound comb will get it out.

If the dog is going to be kept in a stripped, show coat then you need more
advice than I can give. I'm guessing you're not doing this because it
requires knowing more than the average person knows.

Grooming - In addition to the six or seven week schedule for clipping, my
schnauzers get their toenails dremeled every week. And every week, they
really do need it. Usually at the halfway point between groomings, we also
pull out ear hair. Even with cropped ears (and it's worse with the natural
ear), it is necessary to keep the hairs thinned out inside the ear or there
is an increased risk of ear infections. Schnauzers also can have dental
problems so you'll want to get your dog on a schedule of tooth
brushing/cleaning.

If your breeder hasn't already started the pup on having toenails dremeled,
you'll want to start that as soon as possible.

~~Judy


  #5 (permalink)  
Old December 28th 04, 12:55 PM
rutledj@rjrt.com
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Thanks for all the replies. I pick up my 6 wk old pup Monday.

Rut

  #6 (permalink)  
Old December 28th 04, 06:17 PM
Judy
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wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for all the replies. I pick up my 6 wk old pup Monday.


OMG - someone is letting a miniature schnauzer puppy go to a new home at six
weeks old? That's not even legal in my state. And many breeders keep their
schnauzer puppies twice that long!

No wonder you have no idea what to do with this puppy once you get him home.
And obviously your breeder is completely irresponsible so you clearly aren't
going to get any help there!

~~Judy


  #7 (permalink)  
Old December 30th 04, 07:53 AM
TMTZ@BELLSOUTH.NET
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I too was shocked to see that someone is letting a baby puppy leave at
only 6 weeks of age. I would say this is indicative of a backyard
breeder. I wonder what testing has been done on the parents? And just
what does the pedigree look like on these pups? What kind of health
guarantee goes with this pup? Such a shame that an innocent "newbie"
to the world of dogs has to get tangled up with such an ignoramus to
have as a "mentor"!

Carole R. Ernst

Judy wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for all the replies. I pick up my 6 wk old pup Monday.


OMG - someone is letting a miniature schnauzer puppy go to a new home

at six
weeks old? That's not even legal in my state. And many breeders

keep their
schnauzer puppies twice that long!

No wonder you have no idea what to do with this puppy once you get

him home.
And obviously your breeder is completely irresponsible so you clearly

aren't
going to get any help there!

~~Judy


  #8 (permalink)  
Old December 30th 04, 01:22 PM
rutledj@rjrt.com
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I guess I'm as much to blame as the person selling the dog. The owner
is not a breeder in the sense that she breeds for ultimate Schnauzer
qualities as some "true" breeders do. This is just an old lady (71)
that breeded her registered Schnauzer with another and is selling the
pups.

I know I'll be chastised here for doing this but I don't have a problem
buying a pup from a nice old lady. This is the only litter she has had
and will have. A genuinely nice person. Perhaps she is "damaging" the
breed by not following strict "guidelines" about breeding/selling pups
but I think the pup will be ok. We are an animal loving family and will
take great care of the new member. Is six weeks too early? Maybe so but
I've talked to other "breeders" that let their's go at 8 weeks. Does 2
weeks make that much difference? I don't know.

Thanks for all your input and rest assured that the pup is coming to a
good home.

Rut

  #9 (permalink)  
Old December 30th 04, 02:25 PM
Judy
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wrote in message
oups.com...
The owner
is not a breeder


She intentionally bred two schnauzers to get puppies. She is a breeder.
One litter or one hundred. The only question is whether or not she is
interested in the future health of the puppies she has brought into the
world. If she hasn't done at least the minimum of health testing on both
adults and the puppies, she hasn't done anything. Are you - or she - aware
that the puppies should have a slit lamp exam to check for congential
(juvenile) cataracts? Does she have a health report for as many generations
as possible to determine the presence of progressive retinal atrophy in the
lines?

My concern is not conformation of the puppies per se. It's not color or
size or coat quality. It's health. Has she done a single health test for
eye problems? Ever? Does she even know that they are a serious problem in
the breed?

Kidney problems? She does know that schnauzers are somewhat disposed to
developing kidney stones and that therefore protein levels in food should be
kept as low as possible (under 20% if possible - and it is possible)?

The fact that she is willing to let a puppy go at six weeks tells me that
she does not know what she is doing. It doesn't make her a bad person. And
my concern is that these puppies (or their offspring) could have health
problems because of her ignorance.

I know I'll be chastised here for doing this but I don't have a problem
buying a pup from a nice old lady. This is the only litter she has had
and will have. A genuinely nice person.


I don't have a problem with you buying the pup from a nice lady either. But
if you are paying over shelter cost for the puppy, she is making a profit
breeding puppies without a minimum level of concern for their future health.
THAT I have a problem with. You can not be sure that if you breed two nice
dogs with no known health problems that you'll get nice puppies with no
health problems.

Perhaps she is "damaging" the
breed by not following strict "guidelines" about breeding/selling pups
but I think the pup will be ok.


The pup will probably be okay. The pup would have the best chance of being
okay if the breeder was responsible in her breeding practices.

I have owned a BYB schnauzer puppy and seen many more from both other BYBs
and puppy mills. The have run the gamut from completely healthy and
long-lived to problems starting in puppyhood and continuing on. The
temperaments have varied tremendously. THIS is why I advocate responsible
breeding and buying puppies from only responsible breeders. If you're going
to pay, you should be getting a dog with the best chance for continued and
life-long health and the best odds of getting the temperament that you want.

I don't suppose there is a chance that she is at least requiring that the
puppies be neutered so that they aren't going to homes that will continue
her poor breeding practices? That's the best thing she could do to assure
that she is NOT "damaging" the breed. The guidelines for health testing
exist for very valid reasons.

We are an animal loving family and will
take great care of the new member.


I totally believe you are. You are clearly making an effort to gather
information and do everything "right". This is going to be a very lucky
puppy.

I just wish your nice old lady breeder would have done the same. And that
she really doesn't ever do this again.

Is six weeks too early? Maybe so but
I've talked to other "breeders" that let their's go at 8 weeks. Does 2
weeks make that much difference? I don't know.


Yes, six weeks is too early. That's why many states require that puppies be
at least seven or eight weeks. There is a big difference in the mental
development between six and eight weeks. This is when the puppies are
finally getting active (and becoming more work for the breeder) and learning
to play with each other and with the adult dog(s). They are learning that
there is a world outside of their bed. At six weeks, they are barely weaned
and have had no real socialization time.

It is not unusual for puppies to be sold at around eight weeks. This is
pretty common - and may even have some advantages if the puppies are ging to
get more stimulation and opportunities to learn about the world at their new
homes.

It is also not unusual for schnauzer breeders to keep puppies until 12 or 13
weeks old. This gets them past the "fear period" that all puppies go
through - at different times for different breeds - and also gets them
another set of puppy shots. It may also get their ears cropped. All
expenses for the breeder that cut into the profit. And if the socialization
is done well at the breeder's, it's also a LOT of work.

If your "breeder" wants the puppies gone at six weeks (and I do understand
you are likely very eager to bring him home!), and especially if the other
puppies in the litter are also leaving the nest, then you'll probably be
best off bringing the puppy home. Sounds like he will have a better home
with you than he has there. It WILL be extra work on your part. He is very
little to be separated from his family and will require your attention
virtually all of his waking time. At six weeks, he is very much a baby.

Are you planning to do any type of performance training with your dog?
Schanzuers can be very good at agility, flyball and earthdog? There are
some that do obedience and rally-o but they are a little too structured for
me. And what schnauzers do best is whatever their family is doing. In
fact, they usually insist on that.

Good luck with your new baby. I love the breed - and if you've never had
one before, you will soon find out why most schnauzer owners can't imagine
owning anything else.

If you'd like to learn more about responsible schnauzer breeding - and the
breed in general - I'd suggest that you visit http://amsc.us

~~Judy


  #10 (permalink)  
Old December 30th 04, 02:34 PM
Judy
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"Judy" wrote in message
...
Are you planning to do any type of performance training with your dog?


And piggybacking on my own post - because I forgot to mention.........

Definitely take your puppy to a basic obedience class.

I see WAY too many people who - because their dog is small and extremely
cute - don't put the same amount of effort into basic training that they
would if they owned a Rottweiler.

Schnauzers will rule the household if you let them. And I find a yappy,
bratty dog to be extremely obnoxious. They're never going to be as
laid-back as a Golden, but they can be trained to understand acceptable (and
unacceptable) behavior,

Even if you have had dogs previously in your life, you will find that a six
or eight week puppy class will focus you on training better. You may learn
some new techniques. And it will give your puppy a chance to socialize (not
during classtime but perhaps before and after) which if you bring him home
at six or even eight weeks, he is going to need a lot of.

~~Judy


 




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