![]() |
| If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|||||||
|
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
I just have a few questions about Miniature Schnauzers. We are getting
one next week and this will be our first indoor dog. I have purchased a crate for the dog. Do you normally put a dog bed in the crate? Since my wife and I both work it will be in the crate during the day. What is the purpose of making the crate smaller (by using the included divider) while it's still a puppy? Does it hurt to have more room than you need? How do you handle potty training under the circumstances where both owners are at work during the day? Can a dog be "house broken" during just the evening/night hours? Also, do you normally leave a dog in the crate to sleep at night or allow it to have a bed outside the crate as well as inside? Grooming: I noticed several different grooming brushes at the pet store. All wire, all bristle, oval with wire, rectagular with a lot of wires, double-sided metal/bristle. What works best for this breed? Thanks, Rut |
|
|||
|
wrote: Do you normally put a dog bed in the crate? Since my wife and I both work it will be in the crate during the day. This question, like most of what you've asked, isn't specific to Schnauzers, so I'll answer. (I have a JRT, a Redbone Chowhound, and a lurcher.) :-) I wouldn't put a dog *bed* in with a small puppy, because the chance of chewing - with the consequent risk of choking on chewed up bits, or getting an intestinal blockage from swallowing them - is too high. I would, however, put in a chew-resistant crate pad. What is the purpose of making the crate smaller (by using the included divider) while it's still a puppy? To avoid the problem of the puppy using the space away from the sleeping area as a potty. The idea behind using a crate to help with housebreaking is that dogs won't normally eliminate where they sleep. If there's a lot of room, the pup may see part of the crate as "non bed". How do you handle potty training under the circumstances where both owners are at work during the day? If this is a young puppy, you need to either arrange to take time off from work, arrange to be able to come home during the day, or pay someone to come in and take the puppy out. If you don't, odds are good that the pup will be FORCED to pee/poop in the crate, and that usually causes major problems. Can a dog be "house broken" during just the evening/night hours? Not if the dog is too physically immature to be able to "hold it" all day. If you absolutely can't arrange to have the dog taken out during the day, then you need to scrap the idea of the crate, and instead puppy-proof a room, and put pee pads or newspaper down. That method has its own problems, but they're easier to deal with than a dog who is forced to learn to eliminate where s/he sleeps. Also, do you normally leave a dog in the crate to sleep at night or allow it to have a bed outside the crate as well as inside? *I* normally have my dogs sleep in the bed with me, even as baby puppies. It's an excellent way to bond with the dog, and makes it very easy to know when a young puppy has to go out in the morning or during the night. If you don't want to do that, then IMO you should put the crate or a dog bed in your bedroom. If you use a dog bed, rather than the crate, at night, then you need to be prepared to deal with the fact that the dog may wander to another area of the room and eliminate if you don't wake up when s/he needs to go. As far as beds outside the crate in general- I don't use crates at home past baby puppyhood, and my dogs have their own spots to lie in several different places in the house. |
|
|||
|
Rut said in rec.pets.dogs.breeds:
I just have a few questions about Miniature Schnauzers. We are getting one next week and this will be our first indoor dog. I'm always confused by the phrase "indoor dog", but no matter. I have purchased a crate for the dog. Do you normally put a dog bed in the crate? Since my wife and I both work it will be in the crate during the day. [I'm using "him" and "he" when referring to your new puppy because you didn't mention the sex.] A bed is a good idea, though not necessary, especially if your dog uses it as a toy and decides to shred it. The other downside to anything absorbent in the crate is that it soaks up pee, if your dog pees on it - this may not sound like a bad thing, but the short term discomfort of lying in his own pee will help teach him that peeing in his crate is not a good thing. As to working all day, hopefully one of you can make it home at lunchtime for an exercise/pee break. A puppy can't hold it all day. What is the purpose of making the crate smaller (by using the included divider) while it's still a puppy? Does it hurt to have more room than you need? It can hurt. If the crate is too large, the puppy may learn to use the extra space as a potty area. Plus, a crate is the dog's comfort zone - as he becomes more comfortable in his new home without his littermates, you can expand his comfort zone. That's the general idea behind crate training - it's not just for pee control, it also helps with potential destruction problems like boredom- or anxiety-related chewing issues. As the dog becomes more sure in his surrounds, you gradually increase his zone of responsibility until he's ultimately "guarding" the entire house. How do you handle potty training under the circumstances where both owners are at work during the day? Can a dog be "house broken" during just the evening/night hours? Also, do you normally leave a dog in the crate to sleep at night or allow it to have a bed outside the crate as well as inside? I mentioned coming home in the middle of the day - this is a must. If you can't work that out, hire a pet walker or neighbourhood kid. While you're home, put the dog on a pee schedule - you can't expect a puppy to give you the "I need to go signal". Plus, young dogs typically know that they need to go nanoseconds before they go. Take your dog outside (I prefer to train my dogs to a special area where I don't mind dead lawn) every hour, before play, after play, before he sleeps, after he sleeps, and right after meals - and yes, even at 2 am. The good thing is that you'll probably only have to do one midnight run. Praise and treat the dog when he goes - you'll also be able to put a command on the act. "Go pee" and "good pee" is what I use. Supervise him - don't let him make a mistake. At night: if you crate him, put the crate right next to your bed (or your wife's if she's the lighter sleeper). You'll be able to hear him for his 2 am appointment outside. Plus, this is a good bonding time - he can hear and smell you. Don't forget that he's used to a litter. I've never crated any of my dogs at night past 16 weeks. To me night time is a great time to jump start the dog into getting used to a larger space. As far as the dog's concerned, I'm there to supervise. I'm a light sleeper, though, so your mileage may vary. Grooming: I noticed several different grooming brushes at the pet store. All wire, all bristle, oval with wire, rectagular with a lot of wires, double-sided metal/bristle. What works best for this breed? Wait for Judy on this one. Plus, you should read her recent post in the "Schanuzer" thread started on the 26th. -- --Matt. Rocky's a Dog. |
|
|||
|
"Rocky" wrote in message
... Rut said in rec.pets.dogs.breeds: I just have a few questions about Miniature Schnauzers. Grooming: I noticed several different grooming brushes at the pet store. All wire, all bristle, oval with wire, rectagular with a lot of wires, double-sided metal/bristle. What works best for this breed? Wait for Judy on this one. Okay. I'll jump in then. The rest of the questions are pretty generic for all breeds so I'll just let the other answers stand. I do wonder how old the pup is - was that ever mentioned? What works best depends first on the type of coat that you are planning to keep on your dog. No matter what, for the leg hair and beard and brows, you'll want a metal greyhound comb. (I don't know why they're called that - but that's what they'll be called. The spacing comes in a couple of choices - I think I have both - either will work.) Outside of all the stuff used for actual grooming (every six weeks or so), all I ever use is a greyhound comb. No brushes. Depending on what they've been doing, my dogs may get combed two days in a row and then not for a couple of weeks. It should be once a week minimum. I have my hands on them most of the time so if I feel a mat forming on one of them, they both get combed. And if they've been eating anything messy, it's always good to run a comb through the beard. And the greyhound combs work great for removing burdocks or whatever debris they pick up in the brush. The beards do collect stuff. You do NOT want to ever feed a schnauzer rawhide if for no other reason than this! In terms of the rest, if you are planning to have the back and sides clipped - as most are if they're aren't being shown - then there really isn't much to comb or brush there. The hair will be short and isn't going to shed out so there's really no need. If mine are overdue for a clipping, there is enough hair there to brush or comb but no reason to do it. It won't ever get long enough to need it. Most dogs are brushed to keep loose hair cleaned out - this is not an issue with a schnauzer. If it's just before a clipping and they pick up burdocks or something on their backs, the greyhound comb will get it out. If the dog is going to be kept in a stripped, show coat then you need more advice than I can give. I'm guessing you're not doing this because it requires knowing more than the average person knows. Grooming - In addition to the six or seven week schedule for clipping, my schnauzers get their toenails dremeled every week. And every week, they really do need it. Usually at the halfway point between groomings, we also pull out ear hair. Even with cropped ears (and it's worse with the natural ear), it is necessary to keep the hairs thinned out inside the ear or there is an increased risk of ear infections. Schnauzers also can have dental problems so you'll want to get your dog on a schedule of tooth brushing/cleaning. If your breeder hasn't already started the pup on having toenails dremeled, you'll want to start that as soon as possible. ~~Judy |
|
|||
|
wrote in message
oups.com... Thanks for all the replies. I pick up my 6 wk old pup Monday. OMG - someone is letting a miniature schnauzer puppy go to a new home at six weeks old? That's not even legal in my state. And many breeders keep their schnauzer puppies twice that long! No wonder you have no idea what to do with this puppy once you get him home. And obviously your breeder is completely irresponsible so you clearly aren't going to get any help there! ~~Judy |
|
|||
|
I too was shocked to see that someone is letting a baby puppy leave at
only 6 weeks of age. I would say this is indicative of a backyard breeder. I wonder what testing has been done on the parents? And just what does the pedigree look like on these pups? What kind of health guarantee goes with this pup? Such a shame that an innocent "newbie" to the world of dogs has to get tangled up with such an ignoramus to have as a "mentor"! Carole R. Ernst Judy wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Thanks for all the replies. I pick up my 6 wk old pup Monday. OMG - someone is letting a miniature schnauzer puppy go to a new home at six weeks old? That's not even legal in my state. And many breeders keep their schnauzer puppies twice that long! No wonder you have no idea what to do with this puppy once you get him home. And obviously your breeder is completely irresponsible so you clearly aren't going to get any help there! ~~Judy |
|
|||
|
I guess I'm as much to blame as the person selling the dog. The owner
is not a breeder in the sense that she breeds for ultimate Schnauzer qualities as some "true" breeders do. This is just an old lady (71) that breeded her registered Schnauzer with another and is selling the pups. I know I'll be chastised here for doing this but I don't have a problem buying a pup from a nice old lady. This is the only litter she has had and will have. A genuinely nice person. Perhaps she is "damaging" the breed by not following strict "guidelines" about breeding/selling pups but I think the pup will be ok. We are an animal loving family and will take great care of the new member. Is six weeks too early? Maybe so but I've talked to other "breeders" that let their's go at 8 weeks. Does 2 weeks make that much difference? I don't know. Thanks for all your input and rest assured that the pup is coming to a good home. Rut |
|
|||
|
wrote in message
oups.com... The owner is not a breeder She intentionally bred two schnauzers to get puppies. She is a breeder. One litter or one hundred. The only question is whether or not she is interested in the future health of the puppies she has brought into the world. If she hasn't done at least the minimum of health testing on both adults and the puppies, she hasn't done anything. Are you - or she - aware that the puppies should have a slit lamp exam to check for congential (juvenile) cataracts? Does she have a health report for as many generations as possible to determine the presence of progressive retinal atrophy in the lines? My concern is not conformation of the puppies per se. It's not color or size or coat quality. It's health. Has she done a single health test for eye problems? Ever? Does she even know that they are a serious problem in the breed? Kidney problems? She does know that schnauzers are somewhat disposed to developing kidney stones and that therefore protein levels in food should be kept as low as possible (under 20% if possible - and it is possible)? The fact that she is willing to let a puppy go at six weeks tells me that she does not know what she is doing. It doesn't make her a bad person. And my concern is that these puppies (or their offspring) could have health problems because of her ignorance. I know I'll be chastised here for doing this but I don't have a problem buying a pup from a nice old lady. This is the only litter she has had and will have. A genuinely nice person. I don't have a problem with you buying the pup from a nice lady either. But if you are paying over shelter cost for the puppy, she is making a profit breeding puppies without a minimum level of concern for their future health. THAT I have a problem with. You can not be sure that if you breed two nice dogs with no known health problems that you'll get nice puppies with no health problems. Perhaps she is "damaging" the breed by not following strict "guidelines" about breeding/selling pups but I think the pup will be ok. The pup will probably be okay. The pup would have the best chance of being okay if the breeder was responsible in her breeding practices. I have owned a BYB schnauzer puppy and seen many more from both other BYBs and puppy mills. The have run the gamut from completely healthy and long-lived to problems starting in puppyhood and continuing on. The temperaments have varied tremendously. THIS is why I advocate responsible breeding and buying puppies from only responsible breeders. If you're going to pay, you should be getting a dog with the best chance for continued and life-long health and the best odds of getting the temperament that you want. I don't suppose there is a chance that she is at least requiring that the puppies be neutered so that they aren't going to homes that will continue her poor breeding practices? That's the best thing she could do to assure that she is NOT "damaging" the breed. The guidelines for health testing exist for very valid reasons. We are an animal loving family and will take great care of the new member. I totally believe you are. You are clearly making an effort to gather information and do everything "right". This is going to be a very lucky puppy. I just wish your nice old lady breeder would have done the same. And that she really doesn't ever do this again. Is six weeks too early? Maybe so but I've talked to other "breeders" that let their's go at 8 weeks. Does 2 weeks make that much difference? I don't know. Yes, six weeks is too early. That's why many states require that puppies be at least seven or eight weeks. There is a big difference in the mental development between six and eight weeks. This is when the puppies are finally getting active (and becoming more work for the breeder) and learning to play with each other and with the adult dog(s). They are learning that there is a world outside of their bed. At six weeks, they are barely weaned and have had no real socialization time. It is not unusual for puppies to be sold at around eight weeks. This is pretty common - and may even have some advantages if the puppies are ging to get more stimulation and opportunities to learn about the world at their new homes. It is also not unusual for schnauzer breeders to keep puppies until 12 or 13 weeks old. This gets them past the "fear period" that all puppies go through - at different times for different breeds - and also gets them another set of puppy shots. It may also get their ears cropped. All expenses for the breeder that cut into the profit. And if the socialization is done well at the breeder's, it's also a LOT of work. If your "breeder" wants the puppies gone at six weeks (and I do understand you are likely very eager to bring him home!), and especially if the other puppies in the litter are also leaving the nest, then you'll probably be best off bringing the puppy home. Sounds like he will have a better home with you than he has there. It WILL be extra work on your part. He is very little to be separated from his family and will require your attention virtually all of his waking time. At six weeks, he is very much a baby. Are you planning to do any type of performance training with your dog? Schanzuers can be very good at agility, flyball and earthdog? There are some that do obedience and rally-o but they are a little too structured for me. And what schnauzers do best is whatever their family is doing. In fact, they usually insist on that. Good luck with your new baby. I love the breed - and if you've never had one before, you will soon find out why most schnauzer owners can't imagine owning anything else. If you'd like to learn more about responsible schnauzer breeding - and the breed in general - I'd suggest that you visit http://amsc.us ~~Judy |
|
|||
|
"Judy" wrote in message
... Are you planning to do any type of performance training with your dog? And piggybacking on my own post - because I forgot to mention......... Definitely take your puppy to a basic obedience class. I see WAY too many people who - because their dog is small and extremely cute - don't put the same amount of effort into basic training that they would if they owned a Rottweiler. Schnauzers will rule the household if you let them. And I find a yappy, bratty dog to be extremely obnoxious. They're never going to be as laid-back as a Golden, but they can be trained to understand acceptable (and unacceptable) behavior, Even if you have had dogs previously in your life, you will find that a six or eight week puppy class will focus you on training better. You may learn some new techniques. And it will give your puppy a chance to socialize (not during classtime but perhaps before and after) which if you bring him home at six or even eight weeks, he is going to need a lot of. ~~Judy |
|
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| General Question on dog Obedience | joe | Dog breeds | 1 | September 9th 04 10:04 PM |
| AskMars - Labrador Health question | testn | Dog behavior | 0 | May 17th 04 04:20 AM |
| Question for the hunters here | DogStar716 | Dog behavior | 137 | December 12th 03 06:51 PM |
| Question for the hunters here | DogStar716 | Dog behavior | 0 | December 7th 03 05:55 PM |
| Super Mini Schnauzers | Alvin Yuen | Dog breeds | 1 | August 3rd 03 11:18 PM |