I have a lively 2 year old Springer Spaniel and I am having problems
training him to walk on a leash, he is pulling constantly, otherwise he
is fine. Does anyone have any tips to train him to walk comfortably on
a leash?

Also does anyone know how to remove tics? Or tips on avoiding these
critters.

On 13 May 2005 07:01:12 -0700, "Mick"
wrote:

I have a lively 2 year old Springer Spaniel and I am having problems
training him to walk on a leash, he is pulling constantly, otherwise he
is fine. Does anyone have any tips to train him to walk comfortably on
a leash?


Obedience training. In person.

Also does anyone know how to remove tics? Or tips on avoiding these
critters.

Tweezers - twist as you pull. Clean area afterward. Kill tick.
Advantix, Frontline, picking over dog regularly, avoiding areas they
like - fields, under pine trees.


--
Janet B
www.bestfriendsdogobedience.com
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bestfr...bedience/album

Janet B said in rec.pets.dogs.breeds:

Also does anyone know how to remove tics? Or tips on
avoiding these critters.

Tweezers - twist as you pull.

AFAIK, it's an urban legend that ticks "screw" themselves in -
twisting when you pull them out could result in the head being
left behind. When I lived on the west coast, I pulled out
plenty of ticks and had way better success when Murphy's vet
told me to pull them straight out.

Also, depending on the state of engorgement, sometimes it's
easier to pull them out with gloved fingers - tweezers sometimes
pierce the tick's body.

--
--Matt. Rocky's a Dog.

Janet B wrote in
:

Tweezers - twist as you pull. Clean area afterward. Kill tick.
Advantix, Frontline, picking over dog regularly, avoiding areas they
like - fields, under pine trees.

Well, so much for the entire Pacific Northwest! :-)

So far, Stormy hasn't picked any up: Around Vancouver Island, they tend to
lurk in bushes of Scotch Broom, which is an invasive garden escapee. All
the more reason to yank the stuff out. Beating back the broom and the wild
blackberry hedges takes most of our grounds maintenance time every year.

--
Kate
and Storm the FCR
arfenarf at hotmail dot com

on 2005-05-13 at 14:38 wrote:

the head being left behind.

double-reverse troll!!!1! only the mouth parts enter the
skin, not the whole head.

--
shelly
http://home.bluemarble.net/~scouvrette
http://cat-sidh.blogspot.com/
http://letters-to-esther.blogspot.com/ (updated 4/3/05)

shelly said in rec.pets.dogs.breeds:

the head being left behind.

double-reverse troll!!!1! only the mouth parts enter the
skin, not the whole head.

It's still not a good idea to twist. Here's the variety that
I've seen all too many of:
http://kaweahoaks.com/html/ticks.htm

--
--Matt. Rocky's a Dog.

on 2005-05-13 at 15:03 wrote:

It's still not a good idea to twist.

i'm not disputing that. pulling straight out by hand is IMO
the best way to go.

Here's the variety that I've seen all too many of:
http://kaweahoaks.com/html/ticks.htm

i'm going to be having nightmares about that for *weeks*.
thanks a lot, Matt!

--
shelly
http://home.bluemarble.net/~scouvrette
http://cat-sidh.blogspot.com/
http://letters-to-esther.blogspot.com/ (updated 4/3/05)

On 13 May 2005 14:38:39 GMT, Rocky wrote:


AFAIK, it's an urban legend that ticks "screw" themselves in -
twisting when you pull them out could result in the head being
left behind. When I lived on the west coast, I pulled out
plenty of ticks and had way better success when Murphy's vet
told me to pull them straight out.

I've found that twisting slightly has resulted in a cleaner removal,
but maybe it's just me. Didn't think they "screwed themselves in",
but though that twisting helped dislodge the grip a little better?


Also, depending on the state of engorgement, sometimes it's
easier to pull them out with gloved fingers - tweezers sometimes
pierce the tick's body.

I've used tissue covered fngernails a lot - rarely have a tweezer when
I need it. I also have some plastic tick tweezers and a little spoon
like device with a slot in it, that seems to do a realy good job.
Definitely don't want to squish the body.

--
Janet B
www.bestfriendsdogobedience.com
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bestfr...bedience/album

"Mick" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a lively 2 year old Springer Spaniel and I am having problems
training him to walk on a leash, he is pulling constantly, otherwise he
is fine. Does anyone have any tips to train him to walk comfortably on
a leash?

Have you thought about *why* he pulls?

Most dogs pull cos they want to reach their ultimate goal a little more
quickly - eg, go for walk :dog finks: get there as quick as we can cos then
we can run like mad in field and chase wabbits...

So, the answer is (in theory) easy: - dog pulls, you stop. Dog has to stop
and therefore finds reaching his ultimate goal (wabbit-huntin') takes
longer.

It works - so long as you stop every time you feel the leash tighten.
Letting him pull at all will b*gger up all hard work put in previously -
though it will be accelerated if you look at a little clicker training and
general obedience to complement it.

It's working on my 22mth old weimaraner. She forgets herself and I'll even
sit down and wait it out with her on the side walk. She's clicker and
'obedience' trained, but she's yet to discover maturity and the purpose of
her brain cell... when she's in good mind, she's perfect, and when she
really doesn't want to know, we do an awful lot of looking silly going
no-where.

Diana

--
Cindy the weimaraner's web site:
http://cindy-incidentally.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk

on 2005-05-13 at 19:37 wrote:

It works

apparently not very well, at least not for all dogs. IME
making like a tree teaches the dog to pull, then stop until
the leash is slack, then pull, then stop until the leash is
slack. not very helpful, that.

It's working on my 22mth old weimaraner.

you must have the patience of Job. hopefully, it won't take
the OP that long to solve his problem.

to the OP: if making like a tree does not work (and it
doesn't for many dogs), consider reversing direction every
time your dog puts pressure on the end of the leash. that
will redirect the dog's attention to you, where it belongs.
instead of teaching the dog to pull-stop-pull-stop-pull-stop,
you will teach him to pay attention to you and where you're
headed, which will stop the pulling.

--
shelly
http://home.bluemarble.net/~scouvrette
http://cat-sidh.blogspot.com/
http://letters-to-esther.blogspot.com/ (updated 4/3/05)