I have noticed Tuck always stays beside me and moves from room to room as
I do. He expects to go when I do. If I leave him, he's becoming a barking
problem. I thought it was because he's so excited to track, and I think
that's a part of it. When he trains, he literally jumps in his harness
before I even have it untangled.

I've been following the standard Separation Anxiety preventatives, such as
low key entrances and exits (to the point of sneaking out the back door,
because I really can't hide from him something is up)

I interact with him on my terms, not on demand from him.

Getting ready to leave behaviors, and then not going, or going out to the
barn and coming back in.

Making sure he's VERY well exercised (to the point that he's so fit, he
just never tires out) He's got tremendous stamina, and muscle ripping.

Leave him stuffed kongs, which he won't touch until i come back home.

He's not allowed to sleep in the bedroom.

I've tried crating him, or leaving him uncrated.

He lives by NILIF

He barks franticly when left. He paces, or spins in his crate. He never
does any damage, but He's got all the classic symptoms of separation
anxiety except for the damage or soiling.

He's started this since I started tracking Reka. And he just can't stand it
when she goes and he must stay home. If i take other dogs tracking and he
does go, he screams in the car until it's his turn. Once he gets his turn,
he's always satisfied. His turn is always last, because his track is the
first track laid of the day, and he's the last dog to run it, keeping his
anxiety levels high the entire time we are tracking. Usually involving 4- 8
hours. Holding anxiety that long, sustained is not good for any dog. Any
suggestions? This is getting to be a wearisome habit, and intervention is
needed.

In article , diddy none
wrote:


He's started this since I started tracking Reka. And he just can't stand it
when she goes and he must stay home. If i take other dogs tracking and he
does go, he screams in the car until it's his turn. Once he gets his turn,
he's always satisfied. His turn is always last, because his track is the
first track laid of the day, and he's the last dog to run it, keeping his
anxiety levels high the entire time we are tracking. Usually involving 4- 8
hours. Holding anxiety that long, sustained is not good for any dog. Any
suggestions? This is getting to be a wearisome habit, and intervention is
needed.

Why not put this in behavior where more people will see it?

Anyway, you may consider a bark device for the house. Boxes that make
sound, collars - many choices. Or for the tracking events, a remote
collar you use. It would require some learning of the collar of course,
but I have used one in such situations (over excitement with events) and
it was the saving grace. I had just not conquered Franklin's squealing
and not only do I not believe in hitting with anything, but it would not
have been a good choice for him - he was a fairly soft dog but drivey at
the same time. The collar, used low level for training to self control
and calm, was a very good tool for us.

--
Janet Boss
www.bestfriendsdogobedience.com

Janet Boss spoke these words of wisdom
in :

In article , diddy none
wrote:


He's started this since I started tracking Reka. And he just can't
stand it when she goes and he must stay home. If i take other dogs
tracking and he does go, he screams in the car until it's his turn.
Once he gets his turn, he's always satisfied. His turn is always last,
because his track is the first track laid of the day, and he's the last
dog to run it, keeping his anxiety levels high the entire time we are
tracking. Usually involving 4- 8 hours. Holding anxiety that long,
sustained is not good for any dog. Any suggestions? This is getting to
be a wearisome habit, and intervention is needed.

Why not put this in behavior where more people will see it?

Anyway, you may consider a bark device for the house. Boxes that make
sound, collars - many choices. Or for the tracking events, a remote
collar you use. It would require some learning of the collar of course,
but I have used one in such situations (over excitement with events) and
it was the saving grace. I had just not conquered Franklin's squealing
and not only do I not believe in hitting with anything, but it would not
have been a good choice for him - he was a fairly soft dog but drivey at
the same time. The collar, used low level for training to self control
and calm, was a very good tool for us.


I have considered that. But it may stop the barking, but will it stop the
underlying anxiety causing the barking? That's what worries me more than
the barking itself. It's the stress levels, or does the barking self feed
stress levels?

"diddy" none wrote in message
. ..
I have noticed Tuck always stays beside me and moves from room to room as
I do. He expects to go when I do. If I leave him, he's becoming a barking
problem. I thought it was because he's so excited to track, and I think
that's a part of it. When he trains, he literally jumps in his harness
before I even have it untangled.
snip
=================

Have you ever heard of or tried either of these products; D.A.P or
Clomicalm(R)? It was listed as a method of helping dogs with separation
anxiety in a link that I posted on Dog Behavior the other day. This is an
excerpt from that link:
"veterinary help

Dogs that do not respond to behavior modification alone or with Dog
Appeasing Pheromone may also need drug therapy. Ask your veterinarian about
Clomicalm(R). It is a drug designed especially for dogs with separation
anxiety to help them through behavioral therapy." The following are links
for D.A.P and ClomicalmR.

D.A.P:

http://vetmedicine.about.com/cs/beha...haviorprob.htm

ClomicalmR:

http://www.sancarlosvet.com/AskTheDoc/Clomicalm.html

http://www.clomicalm.novartis.us/faq/en/index.shtml

"diddy" none wrote in message:

He barks franticly when left. He paces, or spins in his crate. He never
does any damage, but He's got all the classic symptoms of separation
anxiety except for the damage or soiling.

This is hard, primarily because you're doing just about all the usually
prescribed remedies already.

I know you've said that you have done timed separations already, but how
does he react when you do them? Are they repeated sufficiently that he
actually reaches a point where he acts like he doesn't care? You need to be
able to get to that point during each of your steps, otherwise, moving on is
not accomplishing anything.

I am also thinking that you may need to do more separate activities on a
daily basis. For instance, Tuck gets to hold a down/stay while Reka goes to
get the mail, or newspaper. Although I feel mean doing it, I still close
doors (often right in Pan's face) when she's being clingly; you may end up
having to do the same.

Ultimately, I believe that SA has a genetic basis, and if that's the source
of the anxiety, you will never really get rid of it. You may want to
consider using Clomicalm while you are following the desensitization
protocols. IMO, it is easier to control the symptoms of SA than the
underlying anxiety, and without controlling the anxiety, you really aren't
accomplishing much.

Suja

"Suja" spoke these words of wisdom in
:


"diddy" none wrote in message:

He barks franticly when left. He paces, or spins in his crate. He never
does any damage, but He's got all the classic symptoms of separation
anxiety except for the damage or soiling.

This is hard, primarily because you're doing just about all the usually
prescribed remedies already.

I know you've said that you have done timed separations already, but how
does he react when you do them? Are they repeated sufficiently that he
actually reaches a point where he acts like he doesn't care?
No, I have time, I will work on this.. I need to be patient. This dog
learns everything like lightning. I think I need to take my time with this
one.
Thanks for the reminders.
You need
to be able to get to that point during each of your steps, otherwise,
moving on is not accomplishing anything.

I am also thinking that you may need to do more separate activities on a
daily basis. For instance, Tuck gets to hold a down/stay while Reka
goes to get the mail, or newspaper.

Tuck is fine with that. As long as I'm where he knows I am.
He shivers and shakes when Reka does something that he feels is "HIS" job.

I've spend his whole life building drive. And I've got that drive. But I
also introduced an element of high drive dogs that I just want
extinguished.

Although I feel mean doing it, I
still close doors (often right in Pan's face) when she's being clingly;
you may end up having to do the same.

Ultimately, I believe that SA has a genetic basis, and if that's the
source of the anxiety, you will never really get rid of it. You may
want to consider using Clomicalm while you are following the
desensitization protocols. IMO, it is easier to control the symptoms of
SA than the underlying anxiety, and without controlling the anxiety, you
really aren't accomplishing much.
Yes, and it's the underlying anxiety that I'm worried about. i can get a
grip on his behaviors. But it's the internal engine fires that worry me.


Suja

In article , diddy none
wrote:

But it may stop the barking, but will it stop the
underlying anxiety causing the barking?

Yes, when it's not used as a pure correction tool. It can go a long way
with teaching a dog self control, which is self calming.

It's the stress levels, or does the barking self feed
stress levels?

Both, IMO. That's why part of the idea is to stop that barking, as it
contributes to the stress. I wound up with a more focused and calmer
working and waiting dog.

--
Janet Boss
www.bestfriendsdogobedience.com

Janet Boss spoke these words of wisdom
in :

In article , diddy none
wrote:

But it may stop the barking, but will it stop the
underlying anxiety causing the barking?

Yes, when it's not used as a pure correction tool. It can go a long way
with teaching a dog self control, which is self calming.

I totally understand that.

My husband and I were discussing this today though. It's ONLY when I run
off with known tracking friends.

I took him to town this morning, and he was fine in the car because I was
just doing errands.

My husband's observance is that he only exhibits issues on tracking related
outings. And i concur. but it's reaching problematic proportions. I need to
fix it. i have anti-bark collars, I guess i need to dust them off.

I track nearly every day. I have so many tracking students, that I need to
split them all up, so although "I" track daily, he does not. And I think he
thinks he should go. My husband says to start taking his tracking gear,
loading in in the car, and take short jaunts, and return, giving him false
alrms, and perhaps he will calm down. The batteries are dead in the anti-
bark collar... another trip to town is called for.

It's the stress levels, or does the barking self feed
stress levels?

Both, IMO. That's why part of the idea is to stop that barking, as it
contributes to the stress. I wound up with a more focused and calmer
working and waiting dog.

"diddy" none wrote in message
. ..

snipped.


My husband and I were discussing this today though. It's ONLY when I run
off with known tracking friends.

I took him to town this morning, and he was fine in the car because I was
just doing errands.

Would it be possible to meet the tracking friends elsewhere - i.e., not have
them come to your house, so you aren't leaving with them? Even meeting them
down the block, or in a neighbor's driveway? I'm thinking as a short-term
aid to keeping him calmer, while you're actually solving the problem.

My husband says to start taking his tracking gear,
loading in in the car, and take short jaunts, and return, giving him false
alrms, and perhaps he will calm down.

I would certainly try that, too.

flick 100785