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Nessa said in rec.pets.dogs.behavior:
I'm not very good at this but my first thought was Beagle. I agree, though I'm not very good at this, either. -- --Matt. Rocky's a Dog. |
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Rocky:
I'm not very good at this but my first thought was Beagle. I agree, though I'm not very good at this, either. Yeah, I could kind of see that although I think she is too big for a beagle mix, 55 lbs and growing. I had a beagle/dane mix as a kid and he was built like an english bulldog. |
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Judith Althouse:
I have ulterior motives as I do not want her sent back to the SPCA becausse every time she is returned makes her less adoptable obviously. I don't want to return her either because 95% of the time she is very sweet. Today we had guests including three kids and my nerves were on edge all day hoping there wouldn't be an incident. The youngest girl (3yo) had a fright and claimed that Polly tried to bite her but there was no mark so I wasn't sure what happened. Then later in the day, out of the blue, Polly just suddenly turned and bit my six year old daughter on the thigh, leaving a bruise but drawing no blood. When it happened my wife grabbed the dog with one arm cradled under her chin and the other arm under her belly, something she learned in obedience training and scolded her. Afterward both my wife and the dog were moping around the house. Training is the key and as Diddy said in an earlier post be sure to tell the trainer of her behavior in the event that she doesn't exhibit it while at a training session. The only thing I have to add is that though I believe she can be taught to behave and can be trained not to nip. Please be sure to protect your children until she is trained. Her behavior could escalate and whether it does or not being nipped could harm them or at the least instill a fear of her and dogs in general. Unfortunately I don't know how to protect my children without confining the dog. Early on her nips were part of play but the last several days they have been out of the blue with no warning. At this point we are losing trust in her and I'm afraid to take a chance on her biting one of our kids or a guest. Monday we're going to contact the behavior specialist at the SPCA but I have to admit that I am leaning strongly towards returning her to the SPCA for biting behavior. It's one thing to discourage play biting but sudden random bites are something else. |
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On 11 Jan 2009 06:19:36 GMT, Mac Cool wrote:
The youngest girl (3yo) had a fright and claimed that Polly tried to bite her but there was no mark so I wasn't sure what happened. Then later in the day, out of the blue, Polly just suddenly turned and bit my six year old daughter on the thigh, wait wait wait the dog was just sitting there the kid was doing NOTHING and the dog bit out of the blue while awake with no provocation? is that what you mean? newfondly yours, Nessa ---- Dog Mom to: Hannah age 6.5 Pitador rescued age 9 weeks Harley small shaggy cow that pretends he's a newfoundland rescued age 10 months (Angel) Bagel went to Rainbow Bridge 9/18/08 my Newfandstuff age 8.5 |
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"Mac Cool" wrote in message ... She was really sweet at the SPCA and she got the highest scores on their personality tests but now that she's becoming comfortable with us (been about 10 days) she starting to nip at the kids and myself. Have you talked to the SPCA at all since getting her? I know the shelter here (Calgary) has a really great behavioral resource center to talk to. At least around here, if you're willing to work with her, they are more interested in helping you work with the dog, than see her come back. Dale |
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"Mac Cool" wrote in message ... Judith Althouse: I have ulterior motives as I do not want her sent back to the SPCA becausse every time she is returned makes her less adoptable obviously. I don't want to return her either because 95% of the time she is very sweet. Today we had guests including three kids and my nerves were on edge all day hoping there wouldn't be an incident. The youngest girl (3yo) had a fright and claimed that Polly tried to bite her but there was no mark so I wasn't sure what happened. Then later in the day, out of the blue, Polly just suddenly turned and bit my six year old daughter on the thigh, leaving a bruise but drawing no blood. When it happened my wife grabbed the dog with one arm cradled under her chin and the other arm under her belly, something she learned in obedience training and scolded her. Afterward both my wife and the dog were moping around the house. I don't know if it was a good response or not, but there seems to be something terribly wrong. Possibly the fact that everyone was on edge was picked up by the dog and caused the behavior, but if these bites have been unprovoked and not preceded by any warning, it is a very serious matter. If I had experienced any such behavior with Muttley, I would have had him put down. The fact is that he did bite someone, once, but it was (in my dog's mind) provoked, and he had given some warning by barking and showing fearful behavior, which I dismissed at the time, not knowing it could lead to a bite. And I was advised to have him put down after he exhibited dog aggression during group obedience classes. But there were contributing factors that explained his behavior. I had been subjecting him to very forceful corrections on a prong collar while he was attempting to interact with other dogs, and I think he associated my frustrated and unusual actions with the other dogs, and it resulted in redirected aggression. There have been no incidents since then, after more than two years, so I think he is stable and trustworthy. Training is the key and as Diddy said in an earlier post be sure to tell the trainer of her behavior in the event that she doesn't exhibit it while at a training session. The only thing I have to add is that though I believe she can be taught to behave and can be trained not to nip. Please be sure to protect your children until she is trained. Her behavior could escalate and whether it does or not being nipped could harm them or at the least instill a fear of her and dogs in general. Unfortunately I don't know how to protect my children without confining the dog. Early on her nips were part of play but the last several days they have been out of the blue with no warning. At this point we are losing trust in her and I'm afraid to take a chance on her biting one of our kids or a guest. Monday we're going to contact the behavior specialist at the SPCA but I have to admit that I am leaning strongly towards returning her to the SPCA for biting behavior. It's one thing to discourage play biting but sudden random bites are something else. IMHO, training can only go so far to mitigate dangerous behavior such as this. Most dogs have a human bite inhibition which may be genetically determined, or taught during the early formative weeks of puppyhood. I wish you luck with the behaviorist, but I doubt that any simple training or behavior modification technique will be able to eliminate this potential danger or restore your confidence in the dog. A professional behaviorist will cost $500 to $1000 or more, and for that you can save several other dogs who otherwise would be put down for no other reason than there is not enough room. As I was told by the dog trainer who provided obedience lessons for me and Muttley, "They can't all be saved". But I had bonded with Muttley in the six months I had been fostering him, and others who knew him urged me to spare his life, and I am glad I did. But I don't think you and your family have yet formed such as bond and level of trust with your dog, and the relationship has been eroded by your recent experiences, so I think the kindest thing would be to return this dog and try to rescue another one that is more stable. Probably an older dog with more of a known previous history would be a good choice. I know this is a difficult thing, but I was prepared to do it for Muttley, until I assured myself that I could keep him safely and not present a danger to myself (which was never an issue), or to others. Paul and Muttley www.smart.net/~pstech/Muttley/MuttleyStory.htm |
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"Paul E. Schoen" wrote: IMHO, training can only go so far to mitigate dangerous behavior such as this. Most dogs have a human bite inhibition which may be genetically determined, or taught during the early formative weeks of puppyhood. First, IMO it's grossly inaccurate to say that most dogs have that sort of inhibition; many don't. Second, bite inhibition can be taught at any age, although it's easier to teach human-appropriate inhibition at the same time as the dog learns dog-appropriate bite inhibition. Last, but far from least, this dog DOES have bite inhibition. The term does not mean "not biting", it means "controlling the bite". The fact that she only left bruises means that she was using quite a bit of inhibition, since an NON-inhibited bite from a dog that size would have left - at a minimum- deep puncture wounds. In fact, personally I'd classify that a hard nip, not a "bite"; it could even have been a play bite, although it's more likely that it was either disciplinary or bullying. Regardless, the behaviour isn't acceptable (unless the child was threatening or teasing the dog, in which case a pinch that leaves a bruise is perfectly appropriate IMO, although many would disagree), and there's always a potential for escalation. But without seeing the behaviour, and what triggered it (and I will lay money there WAS a trigger that would have been apparent to someone more experienced), we're all talking in a vaccuum. |
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"sionnach" wrote in message ... "Paul E. Schoen" wrote: IMHO, training can only go so far to mitigate dangerous behavior such as this. Most dogs have a human bite inhibition which may be genetically determined, or taught during the early formative weeks of puppyhood. First, IMO it's grossly inaccurate to say that most dogs have that sort of inhibition; many don't. Second, bite inhibition can be taught at any age, although it's easier to teach human-appropriate inhibition at the same time as the dog learns dog-appropriate bite inhibition. Last, but far from least, this dog DOES have bite inhibition. The term does not mean "not biting", it means "controlling the bite". The fact that she only left bruises means that she was using quite a bit of inhibition, since an NON-inhibited bite from a dog that size would have left - at a minimum- deep puncture wounds. In fact, personally I'd classify that a hard nip, not a "bite"; it could even have been a play bite, although it's more likely that it was either disciplinary or bullying. Regardless, the behaviour isn't acceptable (unless the child was threatening or teasing the dog, in which case a pinch that leaves a bruise is perfectly appropriate IMO, although many would disagree), and there's always a potential for escalation. But without seeing the behaviour, and what triggered it (and I will lay money there WAS a trigger that would have been apparent to someone more experienced), we're all talking in a vaccuum. Thanks for clearing that up. I have found some references that say the same thing, and also offer some advice, which includes the use of a muzzle, as I had suggested: http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIP...Inhibition.php http://www.canismajor.com/dog/bite2.html This may also be helpful to the OP: http://www.canismajor.com/dog/kidsdog1.html Here are some quotes from the following article: "A dog's temperament is first inherited, then modified by events in his life and proper training." "Very few bites happen without provocation -- but the provocation may exist only in the dog's mind!" http://www.canismajor.com/dog/kidsdog2.html Here's another way of looking at it: http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/bi...nfuzzyterm.pdf I still think a muzzle is a good idea, and better than isolation in a crate. The muzzle will eliminate the chance of a severe bite, while allowing safe interaction between the dog and children and adults. If the dog attempts to bite, then there is something wrong that needs to be corrected. In a crate, the dog does not have the interactions that might trigger the behavior, so you cannot observe the situation that leads to the bite. Paul and Muttley |
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Paul E. Schoen wrote:
I still think a muzzle is a good idea, and better than isolation in a crate. The muzzle will eliminate the chance of a severe bite, while allowing safe interaction between the dog and children and adults. Also can cause frustration. Do you expect the dog to live the rest of it's life with a muzzle on? If not then the problem needs fixed or the dog needs to go to someone that will fix it or put it to sleep. And, if you plan on the dog living the rest of it's life with a muzzle on then it needs to be a properly sized quality muzzle that allows the dog to both drink and pant while the muzzle is on. It would be even better if the dog can also eat with a muzzle on. Muzzles that fit that bill are not cheap. And in the end, is that really a life for a dog? If the dog attempts to bite, then there is something wrong that needs to be corrected. In a crate, the dog does not have the interactions that might trigger the behavior, so you cannot observe the situation that leads to the bite. And out of the crate wearing a muzzle, the dog just gets frustrated if it wants to bite. What good does that do. The dog either needs work with a professional or to be returned for biting. Muzzles are a tool, and just like all tools they should be left to the guidance of a professional. Nick |
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"Nick" wrote in message ... Paul E. Schoen wrote: I still think a muzzle is a good idea, and better than isolation in a crate. The muzzle will eliminate the chance of a severe bite, while allowing safe interaction between the dog and children and adults. Also can cause frustration. Do you expect the dog to live the rest of it's life with a muzzle on? If not then the problem needs fixed or the dog needs to go to someone that will fix it or put it to sleep. And, if you plan on the dog living the rest of it's life with a muzzle on then it needs to be a properly sized quality muzzle that allows the dog to both drink and pant while the muzzle is on. It would be even better if the dog can also eat with a muzzle on. Muzzles that fit that bill are not cheap. And in the end, is that really a life for a dog? I do agree with you there. The muzzle should be a temporary tool to avoid injury in case the dog tries to bite. But she should not be biting the way she has, and hopefully the OP will be able to resolve the issue with the help of the SPCA. However, I think it will take a lot of work, and the fact that there are two children involved makes me think it would be best to get a dog with more proven temperament. Even Marcel, with his depth of knowledge and experience with dogs, had to rehome his beloved Moogli because of the safety of his children. The OP has a larger dog who is going through adolescence, and thus will be even more unpredictable. If the dog attempts to bite, then there is something wrong that needs to be corrected. In a crate, the dog does not have the interactions that might trigger the behavior, so you cannot observe the situation that leads to the bite. And out of the crate wearing a muzzle, the dog just gets frustrated if it wants to bite. What good does that do. The dog either needs work with a professional or to be returned for biting. Muzzles are a tool, and just like all tools they should be left to the guidance of a professional. I don't know if the dog would be more frustrated trying to bite with a muzzle, or being corrected for biting without it. Definitely the behavior needs to be corrected. The muzzle should be only a safety precaution. Muttley and I met a dog, on the NCRR trail, who was wearing a muzzle and snarling and straining on his leash. I think the owner was also holding another small dog. Fortunately Muttley just kept his eye on them and we walked by with no further interaction. I certainly would not want a dog that required a muzzle and reacted so strongly to another dog or person calmly walking by. It would probably take a lot of work to make such a dog safe and pleasant to live with. I think a dog like that is best euthanized to allow a much "nicer" dog to live. Paul and Muttley |
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