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I rescued this dog 6 months ago from a shelter. He is a male Yorkie-poodle
about 2 or 3. When we are out for a walk and he sees another dog he goes absolutely nuts. I have seen two different behaviour experts and watched every episode of the Dog Whisperer. He is getting the total positive approach now, we feed him by hand, go out the door first, stay calm, reward him for paying attention to us, but one problem is that he becomes very anxious out in the world and that leads to these loud outbursts. Nothing we have done has helped much with this problem. We either wait until he stops then reward *that*, and/or sometimes tether him and walk away until he settles down. The only small clue to a possible cure is that he spent four days in the pound a few months ago because he got away from a sitter, and that seemed to diffuse his reactivity temporarily. I have tried introducing him carefully to the other dog with the cooperation of the other owner, but that only works sometimes and is also temporary, he just does a rinse and repeat with the next dog. In an open setting running loose with other dogs he is not nearly as bad, but he's still too excitable to be considered social enough to be put in those situations, and if the park is not enclosed he can sometimes just take a total runner.. The leash is what really sets his trigger though. So I'll leave it at that for now in case anyone has an idea and has questions. |
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Dutch wrote:
I rescued this dog 6 months ago from a shelter. He is a male Yorkie-poodle about 2 or 3. When we are out for a walk and he sees another dog he goes absolutely nuts. I have seen two different behaviour experts and watched every episode of the Dog Whisperer. He is getting the total positive approach now, we feed him by hand, go out the door first, stay calm, reward him for paying attention to us, but one problem is that he becomes very anxious out in the world and that leads to these loud outbursts. Nothing we have done has helped much with this problem. We either wait until he stops then reward *that*, and/or sometimes tether him and walk away until he settles down. The only small clue to a possible cure is that he spent four days in the pound a few months ago because he got away from a sitter, and that seemed to diffuse his reactivity temporarily. I have tried introducing him carefully to the other dog with the cooperation of the other owner, but that only works sometimes and is also temporary, he just does a rinse and repeat with the next dog. In an open setting running loose with other dogs he is not nearly as bad, but he's still too excitable to be considered social enough to be put in those situations, and if the park is not enclosed he can sometimes just take a total runner.. The leash is what really sets his trigger though. So I'll leave it at that for now in case anyone has an idea and has questions. It's Me or the Dog had an episode this morning about a dog that sounds very similar - the episode is called The Berry Bunch. Looks like it's going to be on again Sunday 1/17 tonight (11 PM MST) - Check your local listing for Animal Planet. One thing she did was focus training - reinforcing the dog for focusing on the handler, first in a calm situation, then outdoors. FurPaw -- We are entitled to our own opinions. We're not entitled to our own facts. - Sen. Al Franken (D) to Sen. John Thune (R) To reply, unleash the dog. |
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"FurPaw" wrote Dutch wrote: I rescued this dog 6 months ago from a shelter. He is a male Yorkie-poodle about 2 or 3. When we are out for a walk and he sees another dog he goes absolutely nuts. I have seen two different behaviour experts and watched every episode of the Dog Whisperer. He is getting the total positive approach now, we feed him by hand, go out the door first, stay calm, reward him for paying attention to us, but one problem is that he becomes very anxious out in the world and that leads to these loud outbursts. Nothing we have done has helped much with this problem. We either wait until he stops then reward *that*, and/or sometimes tether him and walk away until he settles down. The only small clue to a possible cure is that he spent four days in the pound a few months ago because he got away from a sitter, and that seemed to diffuse his reactivity temporarily. I have tried introducing him carefully to the other dog with the cooperation of the other owner, but that only works sometimes and is also temporary, he just does a rinse and repeat with the next dog. In an open setting running loose with other dogs he is not nearly as bad, but he's still too excitable to be considered social enough to be put in those situations, and if the park is not enclosed he can sometimes just take a total runner.. The leash is what really sets his trigger though. So I'll leave it at that for now in case anyone has an idea and has questions. It's Me or the Dog had an episode this morning about a dog that sounds very similar - the episode is called The Berry Bunch. Looks like it's going to be on again Sunday 1/17 tonight (11 PM MST) - Check your local listing for Animal Planet. One thing she did was focus training - reinforcing the dog for focusing on the handler, first in a calm situation, then outdoors. Thank you for the response. You have hit on the most common advice we have received, the question is how to implement. Even if he is paying attention to me due to the chicken in my hand, if he notices another dog all bets are off. I was thinking that desensitizing him might be effective, kind of like when Cesar Milan takes an unstable dog into his pack to get him socialized by the influence of a lot of balanced dogs. The reason I think that might work is because he was ignoring other dogs for a while when he came out of the pound. Also when I got him from the shelter he wasn't as bad as he is now. Every expert I have consulted thinks Milan's methods are no good, but I am open to everything. |
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"Dutch" wrote in message ... "FurPaw" wrote Dutch wrote: I rescued this dog 6 months ago from a shelter. He is a male Yorkie-poodle about 2 or 3. When we are out for a walk and he sees another dog he goes absolutely nuts. I have seen two different behaviour experts and watched every episode of the Dog Whisperer. He is getting the total positive approach now, we feed him by hand, go out the door first, stay calm, reward him for paying attention to us, but one problem is that he becomes very anxious out in the world and that leads to these loud outbursts. Nothing we have done has helped much with this problem. We either wait until he stops then reward *that*, and/or sometimes tether him and walk away until he settles down. The only small clue to a possible cure is that he spent four days in the pound a few months ago because he got away from a sitter, and that seemed to diffuse his reactivity temporarily. I have tried introducing him carefully to the other dog with the cooperation of the other owner, but that only works sometimes and is also temporary, he just does a rinse and repeat with the next dog. In an open setting running loose with other dogs he is not nearly as bad, but he's still too excitable to be considered social enough to be put in those situations, and if the park is not enclosed he can sometimes just take a total runner.. The leash is what really sets his trigger though. So I'll leave it at that for now in case anyone has an idea and has questions. It's Me or the Dog had an episode this morning about a dog that sounds very similar - the episode is called The Berry Bunch. Looks like it's going to be on again Sunday 1/17 tonight (11 PM MST) - Check your local listing for Animal Planet. One thing she did was focus training - reinforcing the dog for focusing on the handler, first in a calm situation, then outdoors. Thank you for the response. You have hit on the most common advice we have received, the question is how to implement. Even if he is paying attention to me due to the chicken in my hand, if he notices another dog all bets are off. I was thinking that desensitizing him might be effective, kind of like when Cesar Milan takes an unstable dog into his pack to get him socialized by the influence of a lot of balanced dogs. The reason I think that might work is because he was ignoring other dogs for a while when he came out of the pound. Also when I got him from the shelter he wasn't as bad as he is now. Every expert I have consulted thinks Milan's methods are no good, but I am open to everything. I think there is merit in a wide range of methods. Victoria Stilwell and her followers adhere to a rather narrow subset of methods, while CM has a broad spectrum of tools from which to choose. An effective method must fit the dog as well as the handler, and attitude is a huge part of the equation. For more specific advice and a wider audience, you should try the VS forum which is now www.positively.com, and also the CM forum at http://community.sessionswithcesar.com/. They are both very active and each has their share of experts as well as newbies and people with varying degrees of experience. For the most part, they are friendly places to hang out and give and take ideas, but there is a strong anti-Millan sentiment in the VS group. I was actually banned (in a previous incarnation) for daring to criticize a couple of IMOTD episodes. Focus on the handler is a very important basis from which most other obedience training extends, and it can be reinforced with a clicker or other markers. For your problem with your dog "going nuts" around other dogs, it seems that he does not fully trust you as a "pack leader" to deal with what he sees as a critical situation, and he acts on his own. If you can remain calm and assertive, and take steps to break his attention to the other dog and direct it to you, the problem will soon be solved. But it is easier said than done. Good luck. Paul and Muttley www.muttleydog.com |
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"Paul E. Schoen" wrote in message news ![]() "Dutch" wrote in message ... "FurPaw" wrote Dutch wrote: I rescued this dog 6 months ago from a shelter. He is a male Yorkie-poodle about 2 or 3. When we are out for a walk and he sees another dog he goes absolutely nuts. I have seen two different behaviour experts and watched every episode of the Dog Whisperer. He is getting the total positive approach now, we feed him by hand, go out the door first, stay calm, reward him for paying attention to us, but one problem is that he becomes very anxious out in the world and that leads to these loud outbursts. Nothing we have done has helped much with this problem. We either wait until he stops then reward *that*, and/or sometimes tether him and walk away until he settles down. The only small clue to a possible cure is that he spent four days in the pound a few months ago because he got away from a sitter, and that seemed to diffuse his reactivity temporarily. I have tried introducing him carefully to the other dog with the cooperation of the other owner, but that only works sometimes and is also temporary, he just does a rinse and repeat with the next dog. In an open setting running loose with other dogs he is not nearly as bad, but he's still too excitable to be considered social enough to be put in those situations, and if the park is not enclosed he can sometimes just take a total runner.. The leash is what really sets his trigger though. So I'll leave it at that for now in case anyone has an idea and has questions. It's Me or the Dog had an episode this morning about a dog that sounds very similar - the episode is called The Berry Bunch. Looks like it's going to be on again Sunday 1/17 tonight (11 PM MST) - Check your local listing for Animal Planet. One thing she did was focus training - reinforcing the dog for focusing on the handler, first in a calm situation, then outdoors. Thank you for the response. You have hit on the most common advice we have received, the question is how to implement. Even if he is paying attention to me due to the chicken in my hand, if he notices another dog all bets are off. I was thinking that desensitizing him might be effective, kind of like when Cesar Milan takes an unstable dog into his pack to get him socialized by the influence of a lot of balanced dogs. The reason I think that might work is because he was ignoring other dogs for a while when he came out of the pound. Also when I got him from the shelter he wasn't as bad as he is now. Every expert I have consulted thinks Milan's methods are no good, but I am open to everything. I think there is merit in a wide range of methods. Victoria Stilwell and her followers adhere to a rather narrow subset of methods, while CM has a broad spectrum of tools from which to choose. An effective method must fit the dog as well as the handler, and attitude is a huge part of the equation. For more specific advice and a wider audience, you should try the VS forum which is now www.positively.com, and also the CM forum at http://community.sessionswithcesar.com/. They are both very active and each has their share of experts as well as newbies and people with varying degrees of experience. For the most part, they are friendly places to hang out and give and take ideas, but there is a strong anti-Millan sentiment in the VS group. I was actually banned (in a previous incarnation) for daring to criticize a couple of IMOTD episodes. Focus on the handler is a very important basis from which most other obedience training extends, and it can be reinforced with a clicker or other markers. For your problem with your dog "going nuts" around other dogs, it seems that he does not fully trust you as a "pack leader" to deal with what he sees as a critical situation, and he acts on his own. If you can remain calm and assertive, and take steps to break his attention to the other dog and direct it to you, the problem will soon be solved. But it is easier said than done. Good luck. Paul and Muttley www.muttleydog.com Thanks very much for the response Paul. I read some of your other thoughts via your link and I think that we see things quite similarly. I have visited the DM forums as well as Clickersolutions. The discipline method that CM uses sometimes can bring about quick results but they don't seem to build trust or consistency. CM also uses the positive association techniques that all these other experts recommend exclusively. The trick is knowing when to use which method and how to implement. Archie, our dog, displays a combination of high excitement, anxiety, fear, and bossiness when confronted with his triggers, which is all strange animals. He is OK with our cats. It is next to impossible to fully keep his attention while we are walking because other things are just more interesting than even HVT like chicken strips. I noticed that you called offering food rewards to get attention a "gimmick" but the advocates of positive conditioning consider it the core of the training, associating what you want, the dog's attention, with something *they* want. It is very tempting to think in terms of "real" dog training being akin to "obedience to the master" but that seems to have lost favor to the idea of a well behaved dog offering good behavior because he associates it with what he considers good things. CM seems to be the last advocate of "pack leadership" as a core training principle. We feed Archie by hand because we want him to think that everything good comes through us. When we walk, he doesn't "go sniff" at the end of the leash until we give the command. Whenever he looks up at us during walks he gets a treat or piece of kibble. The challenge with Archie is that explodes when he sees another dog and there is no effective way to intervene, sometimes I tie him to a pole and turn my back on him until he calms down then I go back and reward the calm behaviour. This was recommended by a behaviourist. Tugging on his harness has little or no effect. My wife says she is sometimes able to lead him away with HVT but distraction has not been very effective for me. The most effective method in terms of instant results has been on the rare occasion I have lost my patience and got down in his face and shouted with primal force anger SHUT UP!!! In effect what I am getting him to do is fear my rage more than whatever imagined threat he perceives in the other dog, in these cases the submits and the walk tends to end with him following me meekly. This does not seem right at all and I do not believe it would result in long term good results. I don't know, it might be just a matter of time, but it is hard to see when there is little improvement in 6 months. Here he is in the house, he's as cute as a button. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xfQaLefjzA I should make a video of one of his meltdowns. |
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Dutch wrote:
I rescued this dog 6 months ago from a shelter. He is a male Yorkie-poodle about 2 or 3. When we are out for a walk and he sees another dog he goes absolutely nuts. Well done for rescuing an unwanted dog. Whats his name? You can desensitise him to other dogs by using a clicker. About clicker training http://www.clickersolutions.com/ http://www.clickersolutions.com/arti...ensitizing.htm Alison |
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"Alison" wrote in message ... Dutch wrote: I rescued this dog 6 months ago from a shelter. He is a male Yorkie-poodle about 2 or 3. When we are out for a walk and he sees another dog he goes absolutely nuts. Well done for rescuing an unwanted dog. Whats his name? Archie http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xfQaLefjzA You can desensitise him to other dogs by using a clicker. About clicker training http://www.clickersolutions.com/ http://www.clickersolutions.com/arti...ensitizing.htm Alison Hi Alison, I know about Clickersolutions, I posted about Archie there last summer, and have already studied that page until I can almost recite it by heart. Unfortunately these methods have not worked with Archie. He is an extreme case. As soon as he sees another dog he goes ballistic instantly, no HVT, clicking, or other forms of reward have any effect. He doesn't really care much about food while on his walks, he is too worried about what might happen (displays anxiety). We have had two behaviorists assess him and they have given similar advice as you are suggesting but so far nothing has worked. He doesn't even qualify for a reactive dog class. The only intervention that gets through to him is unfortunately making myself a greater threat than the other dog, and I will not do that deliberately because I think it does more harm in the long run. Its fine to say control the distance but we have no way to do that, other dogs just appear and surprise us. |
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Dutch wrote
The challenge with Archie is that explodes when he sees another dog and there is no effective way to intervene, sometimes I tie him to a pole and turn my back on him until he calms down then I go back and reward the calm behaviour. Dutch, For some reason I can't read your posts in my Outlook Express. I'm reading them In Google and replying here. Did you look on Victoria Stillwels forum? I'm sure they have advice about this using positive reinforcement. I've walked a JR x beagle that was like this , he was a nightmare but he has improved very much now so don't give up hope. I am lucky that our park consists of several large fields so I picked a quiet time to walk when possible and had enough room to move away if we saw dogs approaching. I had to keep him on the lead and tried to keep the lead loose and tried to relax and not get tense (that's not easy! ) I kept a distance so that he was alert to other dogs but not close enough to over react. I clicked and treated every time he glanced away from another dog , even if it was just for a second, and I kept repeating this over and over just for a glance away even if he wasn't relaxed. I found he started to look away a little longer and then more at me. I also taught him Watch me , (make a fist and point one finger to your eye holding a treat in your fist when he catches your eye give him the treat) that's very useful but it need to practised at home first and then outside with no distractions. When he learnt to stay calm and ignore the other dog at a reasonable distance, I was then able to approach nearer and carry on clicking and treating. He didn't like dogs approaching directly from behind or in front so we used to approach in a curve being ready to move away if he became to aroused. This takes time, he was so bad it took a couple of weeks to see any improvement. I always went to the same park and once he was less reactive I introduced him to other dogs one at a time by walking parallel but not too close and C&T for quiet behaviour. After a few walks, we were able to walk close together and then let them off the lead together. Once he got to know them he was fine. Alison |
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"Alison" wrote in message ... Dutch wrote: I rescued this dog 6 months ago from a shelter. He is a male Yorkie-poodle about 2 or 3. When we are out for a walk and he sees another dog he goes absolutely nuts. Well done for rescuing an unwanted dog. Whats his name? You can desensitise him to other dogs by using a clicker. About clicker training http://www.clickersolutions.com/ http://www.clickersolutions.com/arti...ensitizing.htm Alison Hi again, I didn't mention, I also read the books recommended, have Rugaas' video, however I do not want you to get the impression I have given up, I re-read that page again (I have it printed out somewhere) and I see some finer points I may have missed that I think I can try again, like how to circle, distract and treat when another dog comes into the picture, IF I can catch it in time :) |
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"Alison" wrote in message ... Dutch wrote The challenge with Archie is that explodes when he sees another dog and there is no effective way to intervene, sometimes I tie him to a pole and turn my back on him until he calms down then I go back and reward the calm behaviour. Dutch, For some reason I can't read your posts in my Outlook Express. I'm reading them In Google and replying here. Did you look on Victoria Stillwels forum? I'm sure they have advice about this using positive reinforcement. Not yet, I will. I've walked a JR x beagle that was like this , he was a nightmare but he has improved very much now so don't give up hope. I am lucky that our park consists of several large fields so I picked a quiet time to walk when possible and had enough room to move away if we saw dogs approaching. I had to keep him on the lead and tried to keep the lead loose and tried to relax and not get tense (that's not easy! ) I kept a distance so that he was alert to other dogs but not close enough to over react. I clicked and treated every time he glanced away from another dog , even if it was just for a second, and I kept repeating this over and over just for a glance away even if he wasn't relaxed. I found he started to look away a little longer and then more at me. I also taught him Watch me , (make a fist and point one finger to your eye holding a treat in your fist when he catches your eye give him the treat) that's very useful but it need to practised at home first and then outside with no distractions. When he learnt to stay calm and ignore the other dog at a reasonable distance, I was then able to approach nearer and carry on clicking and treating. He didn't like dogs approaching directly from behind or in front so we used to approach in a curve being ready to move away if he became to aroused. This takes time, he was so bad it took a couple of weeks to see any improvement. I always went to the same park and once he was less reactive I introduced him to other dogs one at a time by walking parallel but not too close and C&T for quiet behaviour. After a few walks, we were able to walk close together and then let them off the lead together. Once he got to know them he was fine. Alison Good for you Alison. I hope that our lack of success has been only to our inability to execute the techniques correctly, they are difficult to pull off under duress. Archie does know "Watch me", we use it to hand feed him. |
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