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There are many FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
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This article is Copyright 1997 by the Author(s) listed below.
It may be freely distributed on the Internet in its entirety without
alteration provided that this copyright notice is not removed.
It may NOT reside at another website (use links, please) other
than the URL listed above without the permission of the Author(s).
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Border Collies

[LINK]

Author

* April M. Quist, revised February 18, 2000

Many thanks to Laura Alfonso, Carolyn Chamblin, Robin French, Terri
Hardwick, Kathy Kemper, Janet Lewis, Nancy Gagliardi Little, Rita
Susanto, Richard Whorton, and M. Christine Zink, DVM, for their input.
Most of all, thanks to my first Border Collie, Summerwind Shiloh, UD
(9/83 - 5/94), who taught me more about Border Collies than all the
books in the world could have.

Copyright 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 2000 by April M. Quist. All
rights reserved. You may download and print a copy of this file for
your personal use. Further distribution must be with the explicit
permission of the author, except as noted below.

NOTE: Border Collie Rescue organizations and animal shelters may
freely give a copy with each Border Collie they place, as long as the
entire article remains intact, including copyright notice.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Table of Contents

* Characteristics and Temperament
* Frequently asked Questions
* History
* Description
* Training/Behavior Hints
* Is a Border Collie For You?
* Recognized
* Special Medical Problems
* References
+ Books
+ Periodicals
+ Email List about Border Collies
+ Breed Rescue Organizations
+ Breeders
+ Registries
+ Breed Clubs

__________________________________________________ _______________

Characteristics and Temperament

The most outstanding characteristic of Border Collies is their desire
to work above all other things. They herd with their heads lowered,
eyeing the sheep with an intense stare. They notice every movement of
the livestock, and they react by moving, at times almost
imperceptibly, to take advantage of or counter it. Movement of both
dog and stock should be calm and steady. These dogs are the world's
premier sheep-working breed and are known for their athleticism,
intelligence, and strong work ethic.

Border Collies are heading or gathering herders, as opposed to
heelers: their instinct is to run wide around a herd or flock, gather
the animals, and return them to the shepherd. Border Collies can be
(and are) taught to drive stock away from the shepherd, but they do
not usually do it by instinct.

Typical Border Collies are workaholics. They are happiest when they
have a job to do, whether that job be herding, obedience, agility, or
any of the other active occupations and dog sports at which they
excel. They are extremely quick, high-energy, busy dogs, and they must
have plenty of exercise. They are bred for endurance: a working Border
Collie is able to run many miles a day over difficult terrain, then go
out and do it again the next day; a one- or two-mile run is barely a
warm-up this athletic breed. People without the time to give a dog
plenty of good, vigorous exercise every day are usually happier with a
calmer breed. A bored Border Collie can become neurotic, obsessive,
and destructive.

Border Collies herd livestock, birds, other dogs, cats, children,
squirrels, rabbits, deer, bugs, and often lawn mowers, vaccuum
cleaners, brooms, rakes, and anything else that moves. Although Border
Collies herd by "eye" rather than by nipping at the heels of
livestock, many are still nippy and will nip at the heels and legs of
people when they run. Young children are common targets of that
behavior, because they don't know how to control it. In other words,
if not handled properly the herding behavior can turn a Border Collie
into a real pest. They also tend to be car-chasers, and many Border
Collie lives have ended early under the wheels of a car.

Border Collies are always underfoot. These dogs watch you constantly
(as if you are the stock), and rush in front of you if they think
something is going to happen. They thrive on attention and are very
affectionate and people-oriented. However, good early socialization is
important for puppies: adults can be reserved with people they don't
know, and aggressive with other dogs. Border Collies are highly
intelligent and quick learners, but they are slow to mature - they are
"puppies" until around 2 or 3 years (or older), and many 10- and
12-year-old dogs are still very lively and full of energy. Don't
expect a Border Collie to start acting mature and dignified at 3 or 4
years of age!
__________________________________________________ _______________

Frequently Asked Questions

I heard that Border Collies are the most intelligent dog there is. Is
this true?

Defining "most intelligent" is a highly subjective thing, and
depends on what traits (such as trainability, reasoning ability,
independent thinking, fitness for a particular task, etc.) you
consider to be signs of intelligence. Still, by most standards
Border Collies are very intelligent dogs. They are highly trainable
and have good reasoning abilities. It's not unusual for them to
learn a new command in just a few minutes with only a few
repetitions. But their intelligence can also be a problem: many
times they quickly learn things that the owner didn't intend for
them to learn, and would prefer they didn't know! Their
intelligence is one of the reasons that they tend to get bored (and
into trouble) easily. But then, it's also one of the reasons they
can excel in obedience training and competition. However, Border
Collies do not train themselves. All dogs need owners who are
willing to commit the time to obedience training if the dogs are to
become good companions, and the Border Collie is by no means an
exception.

Since they're good herding dogs, I can let my Border Collie run loose
around my livestock when I'm not there, and he won't hurt them, right?

This is not the case at all. Herding instinct is a modified prey
drive. An unsupervised Border Collie will chase, injure, and kill
livestock just like any other dog, especially (but not only) if
he's untrained .

How are they with children?

When properly socialized and well-supervised with children, some
Border Collies can be fine. Those individuals often seem to know
how boisterous or how gentle they need to be with different
children. But Border Collies must be supervised around children to
make sure neither hurts the other inadvertently. As previously
mentioned, they often nip at fast-moving children. Border Collies
that aren't well-socialized with them can be fearful and untrusting
of children, and a nervous dog will snap at a child.

How are they with cats and other small animals?

It depends on the dog. Typically, a Border Collie will get along
with cats and small animals that belong to the family, but chase
those that don't. However, you often need a good-natured cat to
deal with one of these dogs. Remember, if a dog's instinct is
strong enough that it chases and nips at humans when they move,
it's also going to be strong enough to constantly harrass the cat.
It's usually a good idea to separate a Border Collie from all small
animals when you're not there to supervise.

Are Border Collies hyperactive? Do they need a lot of exercise?

Border Collies should be very intense, high-energy, busy dogs, both
indoors and out. If bored, they will chew anything (books, shoes,
carpet, furniture, walls...). They also love to dig holes. Good
forms of exercise for a Border Collie include playing fetch (they
usually love to chase balls and Frisbees), swimming, jogging,
running with a bicycle (be careful they don't try to cross in front
of the bike to herd it!), and hiking.

Border Collies won't usually exercise on their own, and merely
putting a Border Collie into a fenced area as a form of exercise is
not enough for them. They tend to either lie around waiting for you
to join them, or they spend their time digging up the yard and
chewing things they shouldn't.

When exercising a Border Collie, especially in warm weather, you
must watch very carefully for signs of heat exhaustion. Because
they are so intense in their work and play, they often don't stop
when they get too tired or too hot. They can easily work themselves
to death, even on cool days. Another problem is that they can
physically injure themselves because they are so quick and
concentrate so completely on their task that they don't always pay
attention to where they are going and can run into obstacles if
they happen to be in the way. It's also very common for Border
Collies running on gravel, concrete, and asphalt to wear the pads
of their feet down to the point where they bleed, especially when
they're not used to hard, rough surfaces. Most Border Collies won't
even limp until the fun is over, so be sure to keep an eye on your
dog's feet!

How much exercise is enough for a Border Collie?

The answer to this question is as individual as the dogs
themselves. Plan on two 45-minute walks per day, snow, rain, or
shine - your dog won't care what the weather is like! At least 20
minutes of each of those walks should be off leash in a safe area,
and should include a game of fetch or something equally vigorous.
In addition, a 15- to 30- minute daily training session (obedience,
tricks, etc.) helps to keep your dog mentally stimulated and
well-behaved. If you think your dog still needs more, you may be
better off increasing the amount of training and/or mental exercise
as opposed to increasing the physical exercise. For a dog with the
Border Collie's physical stamina, working his mind is much more
likely to tire him out than taking him for another run. Don't
expect all this work to keep that soggy tennis ball out of your lap
when you're watching television, though. Your Border Collie will
still have plenty of energy to spare!

What active sports and activities can I participate in with a Border
Collie?

Because of their agility, energy, trainability, love of work, and
good scenting ability, Border Collies are extremely versatile dogs
that excel at many things: competitive dog sports such as
obedience, agility, Schutzhund, Flyball, Scent Hurdles, Frisbee,
and tracking; they make good search and rescue dogs; some
well-trained, well-socialized Border Collies are wonderful
pet-therapy dogs, and some organizations train them as signal
(hearing) and assistance dogs; police departments in several states
are using them as drug detection dogs. And, last but definitely not
least, Border Collies are among the best herding dogs in the world.
Be very careful, though, if you get a Border Collie and decide to
try herding, because it can be addictive. Many people who got a
Border Collie as a companion dog wind up buying property and sheep
just to work the dog!

Do they play "Fetch"?

One of a Border Collie's favorite games is "Fetch," and it's great
exercise for them. They love chasing balls, Frisbees, and anything
else that moves, and their gathering instinct makes them natural
retrievers. In fact, the fetching can become obsessive and, to some
people, annoying. Not everyone enjoys having tennis balls
frequently dropped in their laps as they're trying to relax, and an
insistent dog staring at them or scolding them until the ball is
thrown - only to have the process repeated again (and again and
again...) a few seconds later.

A word of warning about playing Frisbee with a Border Collie (or
any other dog): according to M. Christine Zink, DVM, Ph.D., author
of the book Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete:
"Frisbees can be very dangerous for dogs, particularly when they
are thrown so that the dog must catch them with all four feet off
the ground. The problem lies not in the dog jumping and catching
the Frisbee, but in the fact that the trajectory of a Frisbee can
change unpredictably, causing the dog to twist to catch it and then
land in whatever position it can. The most common injuries as a
consequence of Frisbee-catching are herniation of the disks of the
spinal cord and tearing or rupture of the anterior cruciate
ligaments. Both of these injuries can be severe enough to end a
dog's performance career."

Do Border Collies like to swim?

Border Collies love to swim if encouraged to do so when they are
young. Swimming is an excellent way to exercise these high-energy
dogs during the hot summer months. It's also a good way of
exercising a dog that has hip dysplasia because it strengthens the
muscles that support the hips without putting any weight on the
joint..

What other things do they like to do that will help me exercise my dog
and keep it mentally stimulated?

Remember: if it moves, it will probably interest a Border Collie.
Many love to chase and bite at bubbles blown from a children's
bubble set. They also often love to chase water coming out of a
hose (or spray bottle) - a great activity for hot days. Border
Collies that understand the stay command (or that have someone who
can hold onto them for a minute while another person hides) love to
play hide and seek, and they get very good at locating hiding
people (be sure to give them "hints" at first by calling them when
they have trouble finding you so they don't get frustrated and give
up). You can also hide their toys, and teach them to look for them.
Teach them the names of their toys, and then to retrieve a specific
toy. They love a good, fast game of "Tag" (and they love to be "It"
- but don't let them nip your legs!). Many Border Collies enjoy
using their herding instinct to push basketball-sized balls around
the yard, and it's not unusual to find Border Collies that will
play tetherball by jumping at, biting, nosing, and pawing a
tetherball around the pole. You can teach your dog some informal
agility by making use of the slides, tunnels, bridges, and
teeter-totters available in your backyard or some parks'
playgrounds. Teach them tricks - the more complicated, the better
(and most Border Collies just love showing off to an appreciative
audience).

Do Border Collie jump fences? Are they escape artists?

Border Collies are extremely agile dogs and can easily jump/climb a
6-foot or taller fence if they decide there's something more
interesting on the other side. They are also good diggers and
chewers, so if they can't jump a fence, they might try to dig under
it or chew through it if they want to get out. Some Border Collies
can even learn to open doors and latches!

How big do Border Collies get?

Border Collies average between 30 to 50 pounds. However, if size is
important to you, be aware that some Border Collies are as small as
25 pounds, and some are as large as 65 pounds. You can usually tell
how big a dog will get by looking at his parents, but if you plan
to get a puppy and you need or want a dog whose size you can count
on, you might want to consider a breed with less variation in size.

Do they make good guard dogs?

Because Border Collies are bred to herd rather that protect
livestock, they are not reliable guard dogs. They can be protective
of their families and generally bark if they hear or see something
they don't like. (There are, however, some Border Collies that have
been trained to advanced Schutzhund degrees.)

Do they shed?

They are moderate shedders. Like most dogs, they shed most in early
spring and late fall.

How much grooming do they need?

Border Collies are fairly low-maintenance dogs when it comes to
grooming because their coats actually shed dirt very nicely.
Generally, a good 10-minute brushing two or three times per week
helps to keep their coats clean and in nice condition; more
frequent brushing while they are shedding helps to control the
amount of hair that ends up on your carpet. Because Border Collies
should not have a strong odor, bathing should be necessary only
when your dog starts feeling dirty to you, or if the dog has rolled
in something noxious. If your Border Collie starts to smell bad
soon after a bath, a trip to the vet for a check for skin and ear
problems is probably in order.

Like all dogs, they also need to have their toenails clipped
regularly unless they do a lot of running on hard surfaces. In that
case they often wear their nails down on their own. However, even
then it's a good idea to check the nails once a week, just to make
sure.

Do they bark much?

Any dog can become a barker if it gets bored, and Border Collies
become more easily bored than most other dogs. In general, however,
well-trained, well-exercised Border Collies that get plenty of
attention are relatively quiet dogs.

How long do they live?

Border Collies are fairly long-lived dogs. Their average lifespan,
barring accidents, is probably around 12 to 13 years, and it isn't
at all unusual to find individuals that are 14 years and older.
They usually hold their age well - a 12-year-old Border Collie
often still looks and acts like a young dog.

Where should I get my dog?

There are several options, some good, others not so good. If you
choose to get an adult dog, you can get one from a shelter, from a
Border Collie rescue organization, or from a breeder who is looking
for a home for an adult Border Collie. If you decide to get a
puppy, you should do some research and find a breeder with a good
reputation. Do not buy a Border Collie puppy from a pet store.
Although these puppies are adorable, they are generally from puppy
mills and are incredibly overpriced. Most people don't realize that
they can usually buy a very well-bred, well-socialized, pet-quality
puppy with exceptional guarantees from a reputable breeder for less
money than they can buy a puppy from a pet store. Pet store puppies
have usually been bred for profit with little consideration given
to long-term health. They are often prone to many problems, such as
epilepsy, hip and joint problems, and early blindness. They are
also usually poorly socialized, which means they can grow up to be
timid, fearful dogs. Do not even buy from pet stores advertising
that their animals are not from puppy mills: no reputable breeder
would ever sell puppies to a pet store! You will often encounter
the same problems with health and socialization with puppies sold
through ads in the newspaper. The best way to find a good breeder
is by asking people who already own healthy Border Collies with
good temperaments.

Don't "rescued" Border Collies have a lot of behavior problems? Do
they have trouble bonding with their new owners?

Rescue can be an excellent way of getting a Border Collie,
particularly if it will be your first one. The dogs that come into
rescue are often well-bred, healthy dogs screened by the rescuer
for temperament, whose only "faults" were that they were in homes
that could not deal with the exercise and training needs of the
breed. The dogs are often housebroken, and sometimes partially
trained in basic obedience. Border Collies that go from rescue into
active, loving homes seem to bond very quickly and strongly to
their new owners. You can even sometimes get a puppy from rescue.
(See the section on Breed Rescue Organizations for contacts and
further information.)

How do I choose a puppy?

If you want a healthy puppy with a good temperament, the most
important thing is to not be in a hurry! First, decide what
activities you want to do with the dog: herding, obedience,
agility, active pet (jogging, hiking), etc. Once you know what
you're looking for, talk to breeders and discuss your concerns and
ideas. Since Border Collies are prone to eye diseases such as
Progressive Retinal Atrophy and juvenile cataracts, and hip
problems such as hip dysplasia, look for a breeder who has all
dogs' eyes and hips checked and certified: eyes are certified by
C.E.R.F., and hips are certified by O.F.A. Be sure to ask to see
the certificates issued by those organizations. Make sure the
puppies are well-socialized: they should be friendly and confident.
When you find a someone that you like and who has a good
reputation, allow the breeder to help you select your puppy. Most
good breeders have a pretty good idea of what the puppies'
personalities are like and will help you to make a good choice of
the best puppy for your particular lifestyle.
__________________________________________________ _______________

History

The Border Collie originated in the border country between Scotland
and England. It is a very old breed, with references in literature
going back to at least 1570 in writings by Dr. Caius. Caius mentions
him as "not huge, vaste and bigge but of indifferent stature and
growth". The breed has been known as the Working Collie, Old-Fashioned
Collie, Farm Collie, and English Collie. It was in 1915 that James
Reid, Secretary of the International Sheepdog Society in Great
Britain, first called the dog a Border Collie.

The first sheepdog trials were held on October 9, 1873 in Bala, Wales.
In the United States, the trials started in 1880.

Famous Border Collies

Two Border Collies that have had a great deal of influence on the
modern Border Collie are Old Hemp and Wiston Cap.

Old Hemp, a tri-color dog, was born September 1893 and died May 1901.
He was bred by Adam Telfer from Roy, a black and tan dog, and Meg, a
black-coated, strong-eyed dog. Hemp was a quiet, powerful dog that
sheep responded to easily. Many shepherds used him for stud on their
bitches, and Hemp's working style became the Border Collie style. It
is believed that Old Hemp's blood runs in the veins of almost all
Border Collies today.

Wiston Cap is the dog that the International Sheep Dog Society (ISDS)
badge portrays in the characteristic Border Collie herding pose. He
was the most popular and used stud dog in the history of the breed,
and appears in a huge percentage of pedigrees today. Bred by W. S.
Hetherington and trained and handled by John Richardson, Cap was a
biddable and good-natured dog. His blood lines all trace back to the
early registered dogs of the stud book, and to J. M. Wilson's Cap, who
occurs sixteen times within seven generations in his pedigree. Wiston
Cap sired three Supreme Champions and is grand-sire of three others,
one of which is E. W. Edwards' Bill, who won the championship twice.

The Border Collie Controversy

The Border Collie brings out a great deal of passion in the people who
love it, especially in regard to what is best for the breed.
Unfortunately, there is much disagreement on that subject, and the
disagreement has created some hard feelings among people who are all
intensely concerned about the Border Collie's future. Following is a
very simplified summary of the three main factions.

Many people, particularly Border Collie owners from the herding
community, feel that American Kennel Club (AKC) recognition in the
United States, and Canadian Kennel Club recognition (CKC) in Canada,
will irreparably harm the Border Collie. These people believe that
breeding the dogs to a conformation standard (that is, for beauty or a
certain look) will, at best, split the breed in North America by
creating a set of Border Collies that are pretty but can't work. They
take the dogs' herding instinct very seriously, and believe it would
be a serious injustice to the breed if this were to happen. These
people refuse to have anything to do with the AKC, and do not register
their dogs with the AKC.

Many other people, especially those involved in showing their dogs in
AKC obedience trials and other performance events, hope that, with
enough people committed to keeping the dog a working dog, and with an
AKC parent club committed to the same thing, they will be able to keep
a major split from happening by placing the emphasis on herding and
performance, especially when it comes to breeding dogs.

There is also a group of Border Collie owners who are primarily
interested in showing in conformation. Many of these people have
imported conformation-bred Border Collies from the UK, Australia, and
New Zealand, where the breed has been recognized by the Kennel Clubs
for a number of years.

In 1994, breed clubs for all breeds that had been in the Miscellaneous
group for many years without seeking full recognition were notified by
the AKC that they had to either seek recognition or be dropped from
the AKC entirely. The AKC had made the decision that the Miscellaneous
group should be used as it was intended: as a temporary holding place
for breeds actively seeking recognition.

In December 1994, the AKC voted to officially recognize the Border
Collie after decades of its being in the Miscellaneous group (no one
seems to be sure exactly how long it's been, but it's apparently at
least since 1955). Registration began in February, 1995, with stud
books to be kept open for three years (in October 1997, the AKC
decided to allow an additional three years; as of this writing, stud
books are now due to close in January 2001). As a Miscellaneous breed,
the Border Collie was allowed to show only in AKC obedience and
tracking trials; on February 1, 1995, the breed also became eligible
to show in herding and agility trials. In October 1995, Border Collies
were seen for the first time in AKC conformation as part of the
herding group. And finally, in the summer of 1996, the AKC selected
the Border Collie Society of America (BCSA) as the AKC parent club for
the breed.

The Canadian Kennel Club, due to its inability to recognize the breed
at this time, removed the Border Collie from its Miscellaneous group.
(The process of breed recognition is regulated by the Canadian
government through the Animal Pedigree Act.) As a result, any Border
Collies not CKC miscellaneous certified by the end of 1993 are not
allowed to participate in CKC- sanctioned events. The Border Collie
Club of Canada (BCCC) is continuing to work with the CKC to regain
their showing privileges.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Description

For the sheep rancher looking for a Border Collie, emphasis is on
intelligence, trainability, and herding instinct rather than on
beauty. He doesn't care what color the dog is, how big he is, or
whether his ears stand up or flop down. The rancher needs the dog to
be physically and mentally capable of performing the work.

In general, Border Collies are medium-sized dogs, averaging between 35
and 50 pounds, but individuals can be as small as 25 pounds, and as
large as 65 pounds. The most common color is black and white, but
black, white, and tan (tri), red and white, red-tri, red merle, blue
merle, and blue and white also exist. Ear set can be almost anything,
from floppy or "rose," to semi-prick, to prick, and both ears don't
necesssarily look alike. Eyes can be of any color: some dogs have one
blue and one brown eye. "Typical" Border collie markings are colored
body with a white blaze up the face, white collar, white feet and
legs, and a white tail tip, but there are many dogs that are almost
solid-colored.

Be aware that many excellent breeders do not breed to the AKC
standard. They believe that working ability alone is the only way to
define a Border Collie. In the writer's opinion, if a breeder is
breeding toward the AKC standard, s/he should also be breeding for
herding ability, and the only way to make sure of that is to train and
work the dog regularly. Passing a herding instinct tests does not mean
a dog can stand up to the rigors of regular training and work in tough
circumstances on difficult stock.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Training/Behavior Hints

Border Collies are often "soft" dogs; that is, they are sensitive to
rough treatment and corrections. You must be firm and consistent
because these dogs will try to get away with as much as they can, but
you must also be fair in your corrections and training. Typical
reactions from a Border Collie that has been stressed by rough or
unfair treatment are that it may shut down, possibly rolling onto its
back in submission, or acting very engrossed in something else and
paying no attention to you; or it may become more anxious and wound
up, trying to do everything in triple time, which causes it to make
even more mistakes. Motivational-type training, with plenty of treats
and/or play, works best with soft dogs for obedience training. It
brings out the best in them, helping to turn them into excellent,
happy workers that love their training sessions.

Attention-training is important for Border Collies that will be shown
in obedience competition. These dogs are very sight-oriented, and are
easily distracted by anything moving around them. A dog that is
closely watching his handler cannot pay attention to other things that
are happening around him.

Border Collies make wonderful trick dogs. They love to learn new
things and can be taught many behaviors, such as sitting up, playing
dead, and rolling over, and they usually love to show off. They can be
very undignified and clownish if they think it will get them attention
or make people laugh. This is why these dogs are so popular in movies
and television.

Border Collies can be very sound-sensitive. This sensitivity manifests
itself in a couple of ways: some dogs become very frightened at loud
or unusual noises (i.e., fireworks, the sound of a smoke alarm, even
something as simple as hand-clapping); other dogs might just be
extremely distracted by different noises.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Is a Border Collie For You?

With the recent appearance of the Border Collie in movies,
commercials, and television programs, many people are now considering
one as a potential new pet. While Border Collies are very intelligent,
they also require a larger time and energy commitment from their
owners than many other breeds. They are active, spirited, and
sometimes strong willed. Although some may be calmer than others,
others are decidedly hyperactive, always wanting to be up and doing
something. They often exhibit obsessive behaviors, like chasing
lights, shadows, and running or dripping water. Many owners have no
patience for this kind of activity, but breed lovers seem to enjoy
this loony streak.

There is no way of telling how highly developed a pup's herding
instinct will be. If you acquire one that wants to work above all
else, its frustration may take the form of herding and possibly
nipping at the heels of children, running adults, or other animals.
This is not a sign of viciousness, but it is something that must be
controlled, especially with small children who can become frightened
with the behavior.

The people who make the most satisfied Border Collie owners are people
who enjoy spending a lot of time with their dogs and are willing and
able to make the commitment to exercise and train in some way every
day; who are very active, who like to hike, jog, and/or take long
walks with their dogs; who don't mind living with a dog that never
really settles down, even in the house, even after a lot of exercise,
even when its owner is tired from a long day at work; and most
important, who have a real job for the dogs to do, whether it's one of
the dog sports that these dogs excel at, or, of course, herding a
flock of sheep.

In summary, Border Collies are much more work than most other breeds.
They do not typically make easy family pets. If you have never been
around one, try to spend some time with the breed before you decide to
get one. Many Border Collies end up in shelters when their owners find
that they are just too much trouble to have around because they need
so much exercise, attention, and training/mental stimulation.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Recognized

American Kennel Club
Australian National Kennel Council
FCI
Kennel Club of Great Britain
Raad van Beheer
United Kennel Club
__________________________________________________ _______________

Special Medical Problems

There is a mistaken belief by some breeders that the Border Collie's
work weeds out unhealthy breeding stock and, as a result, the breed is
unaffected by the genetic disorders common in other breeds. This is
absolutely untrue! Many Border Collies in the U.S. have disorders such
as hip dysplasia, eye problems, and epilepsy. If a breeder tells you
that the breed is unaffected by these problems, find another breeder.
Also, if a breeder tells you he doesn't check and certify hips and
eyes because his particular breeding lines are unaffected by hip and
eye problems, find another breeder.

Hip Dysplasia

Like most medium- and large-sized dogs, Border Collies are prone to
Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD), which can cause mild to severe lameness,
so be sure to look for breeders that certify their dogs through the
OFA and insist on seeing the certificates. Dogs do not have to be
obviously lame to have this condition and pass it on to their
offspring. As a dog approaches middle age, symptoms of CHD often show
up as mild arthritis: the dog limps or appears somewhat stiff after
hard exercise or upon getting up from a nap. Often the dog seems fine
after he moves around and stretches himself a bit. These symptoms can
become worse as the dog ages. Depending on the dog (age, activity
level) and owner (finances, ability and williness to commit to helping
the dog with its rehabilitation), treatment varies from pain
management (using drugs, managed exercise, and rest) to several
choices of surgery (including total hip replacement).

Osteochondritis Desicans

A disease that can cause lameness in the joints of young dogs (usually
from 6 to 12 months of age) is Osteochondritis Desicans (OCD). This is
a degenerative disease of the joints, and is possibly associated with
over-nutrition and too-fast growth of puppies. Treatment includes rest
and/or surgery.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) and Central Retinal Atrophy (CPRA)
are two eye problems. PRA generally shows up in dogs around two years
of age. At first it shows up as night blindness, and slowly progresses
over eight years or so to total blindness. Dogs that are bred should
have their eyes checked and certified by a veterinary ophthalmologist.
Again, insist on seeing the CERF certificates.

Collie Eye Anomaly

Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA) is another eye problem that is becoming more
and more common in Border Collies. Like PRA, CEA can also cause
blindness. However, unlike PRA, it is not a progressive disease. A
puppy with this problem will not get progressively worse. The entire
litter should be tested for CEA between the ages of six and ten weeks
by a qualified veterinary ophthalmologist. An official certificate
should be available if the litter has been tested, and every puppy in
the litter should be listed as normal.

Epilepsy

Border Collies are also prone to epilepsy, a neurological seizure
disorder, which can be extremely serious. Although epileptic seizures
can usually be controlled by drugs, that's not always the case. Dogs
have been known to die of uncontrollable seizures. Unfortunately,
there is no test for this. Ask the breeder if there are any known
epilepsy problems. Ethical breeders will be more than happy to discuss
this with you.

Canine Ceroid Lipofuscinosis (Storage Disease)

This is a rare disease found in some dogs, which affects the nerve
cells of the body. It is caused by a metabolic defect that allows a
waste product called ceroid lipofuscin to accumulate in body cells.
Dogs appear normal until around 18 months, at which time the build-up
is substantial enough that symptoms start to appear. Symptoms include:
unreasonable fear of familiar objects and surroundings; abnormal gait,
unsteady on feet, difficulty jumping; demented behaviour, mania,
hyperactivity, or rage. There is no treatment for this disease, and it
is terminal.

Deafness

Congenital deafness can be a problem in some Border Collies, and more
breeders are starting to have breeding stock and litters hearing
(BAER) tested.

Malignant Hyperthermia

This is a very serious, although fairly unusual condition that affects
some Border Collies. Typical symptoms include staggering after a brief
period (5 or 10 minutes) of exercise. If left to run they would
collapse. Body temperatures shoot up extremely high, and take a long
time to return to normal, even in cold weather. Any exercise or stress
can trigger an attack. If the temperature goes high enough, it can
trigger seizures, strokes or even death. Dogs with this condition must
have their exercise carefully controlled and monitored.

Anesthetics

Because of their low body fat, some Border Collies may be sensitive to
barbiturate-based anesthetics. This is something that you should
discuss with your veterinarian before any kind of surgery or procedure
for which your dog will be anesthetized.
__________________________________________________ _______________

References

Books

Billingham, Viv, One Woman and Her Dog, 1984

Carpenter, E. B., Blue Ribband of the Heather: The Supreme Champions
1906 - 1988, Farming Press Books, Ipswich, UK, 1989

Combe, Iris, Border Collies, Faber and Faber, London, 1978

Jones, H. Glyn, A Way of Life, Diamond Farm Enterprises, Alexandria,
NY, 1987

Larson, Janet E., The Versatile Border Collie, Second Edition, Alpine
Publications, Inc., Loveland, Colorado, 1999

Longton, Tim, and Hart, Edward, The Sheepdog: Its Work and Training,
Newton Abbot, North Pomfret, VT, 1976

McCaig, Donald, Nop's Trials (Fiction), Crown Publishers, New York,
NY, 1984

McCaig, Donald, Eminent Dogs, Dangerous Men, Harper Collins, New York,
NY, 1991

Wilcox, Bonnie, DVM, and Walkowicz, Chris, Atlas of Dog Breeds, TFH
Publications, Inc., 1991

Zink, M. Christine, DVM, Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine
Athlete, Second Edition, Canine Sports Productions, 1997

Periodicals

American Border Collie
218 Stagecoach Lane, Crawford, TX 76638

Borderlines
(Newsletter for BCSA)
Editor: Helen Phillips
email:
Arvada, CO

The Ranch Dog Trainer
PO Box 599, Ellendale, TN 38029

The Shepherd's Dogge
Woolgather Farm
Box 843, Ithaca, NY 14581

The Working Border Collie Magazine
14933 Kirkwood Road, Sidney, OH 45365

United States Border Collie Club Newsletter
14401 Poplar Hill Road, Germantown, MD 20874

Email List about Border Collies

A mailing list is available for discussing issues and topics relating
to Border Collies. You can join by sending a message to:



leave the subject line and body of the message blacnk, and send the
email.

There is also a mailing list specifically for herding with Border
collies. To join, send email to:



In the body of the message, put the lines:

subscribe SHEEPDOG-L firstname lastname

Breed Rescue Organizations

Many Border Collie rescue volunteers are experts at matching dogs with
the right homes, so, for example, you won't end up with a dog with
intense herding instincts if what you want is just an active
companion. Many are also very knowledgeable about dog behavior, and
are happy to answer any questions and help you with any problems you
might have after you get your new dog home.

The following website lists most of the rescue organizations in the
United States.

http://www.modricusa.com/bcr/nd98/contacts.html

Breeders

For lists of breeders, contact the one of the breed clubs listed later
in this article. Be sure to interview the breeders very carefully, and
expect them to interview you to make sure you can provide an
appropriate home for one of their puppies. Responsible breeders are
very careful about who they send their puppies home with.

Registries

The American Border Collie Association Inc. (ABCA)
82 Rogers Road, Perkinston, MS 39573 USA
(601) 928-7551
http://www.bordercollie.org/abca.html

The American-International Border Collie Registry, Inc. (AIBC)
c/o Senette Parker, PO Box 274, Chappell Hills, TX 77426, USA
(409) 836-4864
http://www.aibc-registry.org/

The American Kennel Club. (AKC)
51 Madison Avenue, New York, NY USA
email:
http://www.akc.org

The North American Sheep Dog Society (NASDS)
RR 3, McLeansboro, IL 62859, USA

Raad van Beheer
Postbus 75901, 1070 AX Amsterdam, The Netherlands

The Kennel Club
I-4 Clarges St. Piccadilly, London, W1Y8AB, England

The International Sheep Dog Society (ISDS)
Chesam House, 47 Bromham Road, Bedford, England MK40 2AA
http://intsheepdogsoc.org.uk

The Australian National Kennel Council
Royal Show Grounds, Ascot Vale, Victoria, Australia

The United Kennel Club (UKC)
100 East Kilgore Rd., Kalamazoo, MI 49001 USA
http://www.ukcdogs.com/

Breed Clubs

Include a self-addressed, stamped envelope with any inquiry.

The Border Collie Club of Great Britain
Ted Keeton, Acting Secretary
Hunters Quay, Dale Bank, Ashover, Chesterfield, Derbyshire S45 0EX
http://www.k9netuk.com/bccgb/

Border Collie Club Nederland
Amerlaan 31, 5626 BR Eindhoven
The Netherlands
Tel: +31 (0)40 2904066

Border Collie Club of Tasmania
Syd Munton
Lot 1, Lower Shield Street, Huonville 7109 Tasmania (002)641659
http://www.vision.net.au/~mhampson/bcsct.htm

Border Collie Society of America, Inc (BCSA)
(AKC Parent Club)
14328 W. 96th Avenue, Arvada, CO 80005
http://www.duke.edu/~awho/bc/bcsa.htm

The United States Border Collie Club
12813 Maple Street, Silver Spring, MD 20904
http://www.bordercollie.org/
__________________________________________________ _______________


Border Collie FAQ
April Quist,
]]> Dog info April M. Quist http://www.dogbanter.com/46043-rec-pets-dogs-border-collies.html http://www.dogbanter.com/46041-rec-pets-dogs-airedale-terrier.html Thu, 13 Jun 2013 05:11:56 GMT Archive-name: dogs-faq/breeds/airedales
Posting-frequency: 30 days
URL: http://www.moondancefarm.com/adt_faq/index.htm
Last-modified: 18 Apr 1900

=======
There are many FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/lists/faq-list.html, or
via email by sending your message to with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.

This article is Copyright 1997 by the Author(s) listed below.
It may be freely distributed on the Internet in its entirety without
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It may NOT reside at another website (use links, please) other
than the URL listed above without the permission of the Author(s).
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==========


Airedale Terriers

AUTHORS

Thanks to the book references at the end of this FAQ; and of course to
the following people who directly contributed their time and efforts
toward this FAQ.

Kathy, Lori and the kids



Copyright 1997 1998 1999 2000 by Kathy Dowd. All rights reserved. You
may download and print a copy of this file for your personal use.
Further distribution must be with the explicit permission of the
author. NOTE: Airedale Terrier Rescue organizations may freely
distribute copies of this document.

Kathy Dowd and Lori Valentine (MoonDance)are members of the Airedale
Terrier Club of America, and work together to breed, train, and show
(conformation and obedience) Airedale Terriers.

Special thanks to those people sending helpful corrections/additional
information: Linda Baake (Lynaire), Margo Dupre (Traymar), and Chris
Halvorson (co-owner of DogAds).
__________________________________________________ _______________

Table of Contents

* History
* Description
* Care
* Training
* Puppies
* Recommendations
* General Health and Special Medical Problems
* Hunting/Working Activities
* Search and Rescue Activities
* Frequently Asked Questions
* Breed Clubs and Rescue Organizations
* References
__________________________________________________ _______________

History

The Valley of the Aire in West Riding, Yorkshire, was the birthplace
of the Airedale Terrier. The exact date is unknown but indications are
that the breed began to be developed in the middle of the nineteenth
century. They were bred as an answer to the average factory workers
desire to hunt otter. To hunt this game properly required a pack of
Otterhounds and a "Terrier" or two.

The Airedale is believed to be the "Old English Black-and-Tan
Terrier," the "Broken-coated Working Terrier" and the "Rough-coated
Black-and-Tan Terrier" outcrossed to the Otter Hound among others. All
accounts of the "creation" of the point to a possible cross with a
Border Collie or some other sheepdog. Some accounts also point to the
Bull Terrier, while others insist that this outcross never took place.

These dogs were known for their gritty ability to take on any
adversary and give a good account of themselves. They were broken to
guns and trained to retrieve. They were fierce competitors in the
water-rat matches. Albert Payson Terhune sums up the Airedale
concisely: "Among the mine-pits of the Aire, the various groups of
miners each sought to develop a dog which could outfight and outhunt
and OUTTHINK the other miner's dog. Out of the experiments emerged the
modern Airedale. He is swift, formidable, graceful, big of brain, an
ideal chum and guard. There is almost nothing he cannot be taught if
his trainer has the slightest gift of teaching. Every inch of him is
in use. No flabby by-products. A PERFECT MACHINE--a machine with a
BRAIN, PLUS." The first Airedale known to come to America was Bruce
brought over by C. H. Mason. Bruce was the sire of Bess, who was the
dam of Airedale Jerry, root of the family tree.

Airedales have successfully mastered everything from big-game hunting,
coon-hunting, being excellent police dogs to obedience work. Not every
Airedale excels in every area but over time many have done a variety
of duties very well.

Today Airedales are still used as hunting dogs, watch dogs and even
obedience and agility dogs, but they are, first and foremost,
faithful, loyal and entertaining companions.

__________________________________________________ _______________

Description

The Standard is the physical "blueprint" of the breed. It describes
the physical appearance and other desired qualities of the breed
otherwise known as type. Some characteristics, such as size, coat
quality, and movement, are based on the original (or current) function
for the dog. Other characteristics are more cosmetic such as eye
color; but taken together they set this breed apart from all others.
The Standard describes an ideal representative of the breed. No
individual dog is perfect, but the Standard provides an ideal for the
breeder to strive towards.

Because of copyright concerns over the collection of all the Standards
at any single site storing all the faqs, AKC Standards are not
typically included in the Breed faqs. The reader is referred to the
publications at the end of this document or to the Airedale Terrier
Club of America website for an explanation of the standard.

Due to the requests of the masses, the AKC has placed a condensed
version of the Standard for the Airedale Terrier (as well as the other
breeds eligible for AKC registration) on-line.

For many novice dog fanciers these standards are intimidating,
abstract, and subjective. One good way to begin to understand this
standard is to read books, such as The New Airedale Terrier,
(referenced at the end of this FAQ), and study the pictures and
drawings while reading the standard. Also, take a copy of the standard
to dog shows and watch the breed. Talk to as many breeders as
possible. Over time an "eye" for the breed will develop if you
continue to question and compare the animal in front of you against
the standard. The Airedale Terrier Club of America has a nice
pamphlet, complete with sketches that is helpful in understanding the
breed standard.

Airedale personality, as described in Your Airedale, is "cocky and
brash, as he nonchalantly goes about his business with a swashbuckling
air." He will protect his family to the death if need be. He is very
patient with children, only moving away when he tires of their rough
and boisterous play. He is very strong willed, while being gentle and
affectionate with his family. The Airedale's curiosity is such that he
will investigate any situation until he is satisfied. He is definitely
a thinker. Airedales are people-oriented dog, where his owner is,
there he wants to be.

Choosing to own a Airedale is a wonderful, rewarding decision, but
remember that a sense of humor is an absolutely necessary
qualification for an Airedale owner.

__________________________________________________ _______________

Care

Food: Airedales do well on high quality foods. Some may have slightly
dry "itchy" skin and can be supplemented with certain oils and kelp.
Also many Airedales respond well to lamb and rice foods.

One thing worth mentioning here is how long to feed puppy food. Some
research indicates that feeding puppy food for too long can increase
the incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs that are susceptible to it. The
theory is that the higher percentage of protein found in puppy
formulas can accelerate growth before the developing skeleton can
support the weight. Some breeders start feeding adult food very early.
Most people tend to gradually switch to adult food at 8-10 months.
Again, this is something to discuss with the breeder and your
veterinarian.

Grooming: Many pet Airedales are clippered to the characteristic King
of Terriers look. A good groomer should be able to provide this
service. If not, contact a breeder in your area, many will be willing
to provide grooming assistance on a limited basis. Airedales should be
brushed with a pin brush on a daily basis to remove dead hair, since
they do not "shed." Slickering their furnishings (leg hair and face
hair) will also remove dead hair, allowing new hair to grow in.

Airedales do "blow" their coat if it is allowed to grow out.

Dogs to be shown are stripped and trimmed. This is described in a
couple of the books at the end of this FAQ. It is a very time
consuming endeavor and somewhat difficult art to master.

Housing: Airedales prefer to be with their families but also love to
romp and play. A fenced area is great for exercise and play, while
after play, they are ready to make great house dogs.

CAUTION: Airedales are lovers of digging. They are definitely
"terre-iers." Always keep that in mind when preparing an exercise
area.

Crate training is a good idea for the young dog. As he gets older he
may tend to use this as his "den" and has a secure area for travelling
or your long days at work.

Exercise: Airedales are very active dogs and need lots of exercise.
They need a fairly large area to romp and play. Daily walks are great
exercise and fun time for both you and your Airedale.

__________________________________________________ _______________

Training

As with other breeds, begin socializing your Airedale at an early age.
Socialization will begin to lay the groundwork for a happy and
obedient companion by increasing the dog's confidence. Airedales can
tend to be "dog aggressive" which makes socialization and obedience
training a must. Your dog must respect you but you have to earn that
respect. Your puppy needs a consistent set of rules to live by. For
example, will he be allowed on the couch or not? Consistent rules will
produce a reliable companion. Puppy classes, if available, are a good
idea.

Airedales do not respond well to harsh methods of training. They want
to make you happy, but they have to UNDERSTAND what is expected of
them. PATIENCE!

Several hints for successful training are:

1) Don't bore your dog. Airedales will not become "robots." He will go
check out an interesting onlooker before repeating the same "silly"
heeling pattern over and over.

2) Remember that Airedales are "thinkers." Don't ask them to do
foolish things. The only time my old girl ever broke a down was
because the "judge person" was foolish enough to set the dogs up in
the sun so that the judge could stand in the shade on a hot July
afternoon.

3) Use positive motivation. It doesn't matter how silly you feel, he
has to feel as though he is making you happy. Be creative. Remember,
Airedales are thinkers, not robots.

4) Approach each "training" session as an opportunity to learn more
about your companion. Try to look at each command from your dog's
point of view. This way of thinking will increase the mutual respect
that should develop while training.

5) Increase your chances for success by working with people who
appreciate and understand terriers. Do NOT allow any obedience
instructor or anyone else to compare your Airedale to those "perfect"
Shelties, Borders and GSDs. I heard a story of a woman working an
Airedale in an obedience class taught by a Border Collie trainer.
During one class, they were working on heeling patterns. The
instructor was busy pointing out the Airedale's inability to follow
the pattern as the instructor and Border Collie tumbled over a jump
while the Airedale watched from a perfect sit just in front of the
jump. The "stupid" terrier just "smiled."

You must be very flexible in training your Airedale. Expect the
unexpected and know your companion. Do not try to put a square peg
into a round hole. It is a very common MISCONCEPTION that Airedales
cannot be trained. IMHO Airedales simply require more ingenious and
patient trainers.

__________________________________________________ _______________

Puppies

Look for a reputable breeder when selecting your Airedale puppy. If
possible, visit the home of your potential puppy. Remember that the
first 8 weeks of any puppy's life are very important. A great
companion/show dog begins at birth.

Make list of questions before talking to or visiting the breeder.
Observe the puppy's environment. How do the puppies react to the
breeders? How do they react to you? Is their area clean? Ask the
breeder if the parents have been checked for dysplasia? Has there been
a family history of allergies? Have the puppies been around children?
Have they been around cats? Will the breeder be available to answer
questions in the future? Does the breeder offer a contract? (It is
virtually impossible for a breeder to guarantee that the health of any
animal, but the breeder should be willing to take the animal back and
replace it! Responsible breeders will often require that the animal be
returned to them, if for any reason, you are unable to keep the
animal. This ensures them that the animal will be cared for in the
future.)What vaccines have been given? Have the puppies been wormed?
(various areas need various levels of worming, due to climates.)These
are just examples of some of the questions that you should ask.

If possible, go look at several litters and talk to several breeders.

Remember that you are selecting a companion for many years to come, so
take your time, make sure that your are choosing not only a compatible
breed, but also a compatible animal and breeder!! Expect a lot of
questions from your breeder. He/she is also selecting a companion for
an animal into which many hours of love, thought and energy have been
invested.

When you pick up your puppy, your breeder can tell you the puppy's
schedule, brand of food and can recommend a future diet. Then you can
gradually change the diet to suit your preferences. Remember that
sudden changes in diet can severely disrupt the puppy's digestive
system and cause gastric distress. The Airedale can eat quite a bit,
especially as a young and rapidly growing puppy.

For additional information on learning to live with your new puppy,
see the RPD FAQ entitled "Your New Puppy" written by Cindy Tittle
Moore.

NOTE: Remember in many cases, an older dog may suit your particular
situation much better than a young puppy. Many breeders place older
puppies and dogs. These dogs are often "show prospects" that didn't
mature as was expected or maybe were returned to the breeder for
various reasons. (My personal experience with adopting an older dog
has been very successful.) Every breed rescue organization is in
search of good potential adoptive homes. Rescue dogs often require
additional work but can also be very rewarding.

If considering an older puppy or dog, please read the RPD FAQ entitled
"Your New Dog" also written by Cindy Tittle Moore, for more
information.

__________________________________________________ _______________

Recommendations

Remember that Airedales and other terriers are very smart and
personable dogs. They are not dogs that should be left to their own
devices. You could be quite surprised at their ingenuity. A trained
Airedale could become the best friend that you will ever have. Keep
your sense of humor and a consistent set of rules for your dog, and
you will be rewarded with a companion without compare. You must be as
smart, patient and assertive as the friend you are choosing.

__________________________________________________ _______________

General Health and Special Medical Problems

Airedales, in general, are very healthy and hardy animals. Some do
have health problems, but in many cases, these are only minor.

Airedales, like all other larger breeds, have occurrences of hip
dysplasia. These cases are not common but the possibility should be
addressed. When selecting a puppy, always question the breeder about
the condition of the parents' hips. Many breeders have preliminary hip
x-rays done at a year of age (these x-rays cannot be sent in for an
OFA number), prior to beginning a "show" career. More information on
CHD (Canine Hip Dysplasia) is available in the usenet RPD Canine
Medical Info Part II FAQ.

Airedales, like many terriers, may have "itchy" skin. This could be a
sign of many things. Sometimes it is nothing more than a dietary
problem, and sometimes it is an symptom of hyperthyroidism or
hypothyroidism. All of the above can normally be treated and
controlled easily. "Itchy" skin may also be a symptom of allergies.
These allergies may be food or other. My experience has been that the
first place to start is with the diet. Some Airedales do better on a
quality lamb and rice food, others do not.

Always take the time to keep your Airedale's ears clean and dry (this
helps prevent infections or irritations.), toe nails trimmed, teeth
cleaned (doing this at home on a regular basis can prevent gum disease
and other dental problems, and it is good practice for trips to the
vet.), and remember to keep the hair trimmed between the pads.

Always consult with your veterinarian and breeder about any health
concerns.

__________________________________________________ _______________

Hunting/Working Activities

Airedales, as previously mentioned, are used for hunting and working
in many areas. In an effort to promote and maintain the hunting
abilities for which the Airedale was originally bred, a
Hunting/Working committee was formed by the Airedale Terrier Club of
America in 1985. This committee holds an annual workshop in
conjunction with hunting tests. The workshop is assists both novice
and experienced hunters in developing the skills Airedales need to be
successful gundogs.

These trials are conducted in accordance with ATCA-approved hunting
tests and titles. These tests are being continually revised and
improved to tap even deeper into the talents of the breed. Currently,
there are Junior and Senior Hunting Dog titles in flushing (JHDF and
SHDF), retrieving (JHDR and SHDR), and the more traditional fur test
(JHDFur and SHDFur).

The members of the H/W Committee are working with hunting judges and
instructors from other breeds with AKC recognized Hunting titles to
develop AKC recognized hunting titles for Airedales. Hopefully in the
future, Airedales will be able to obtain AKC Hunting titles.

The Upland Bird tests require the dog to find and flush two birds,
retrieve a shot bird on land, and do a short water retrieve. (JHDF and
SHDF)

The Hunting Dog Retriever test brings contestants to a line from which
the dog is expected to remember or "mark" the fall of a bird shot in
the field. Upon a command from the handler, the dog should retrieve
the bird. The next phase is to repeat the retrieve, except from the
water. To obtain the SHDR title, the dog is required to mark one duck
shot over the water, and while waiting to be released, see another
duck down. The dog must then retrieve both birds.

The HDFur test requires the dog to follow a track of raccoon scent,
locate a caged raccoon in a wooded area, bark, or "bay," to declare
the find.

For more information on the H/W Activities, please contact:

Steve Gilbert - ATCA H/W Committee Chairman
100 Hawthorne Drive
Lima, OH 45805
(419)991-7430

or visit the ATCA Hunting and Working Web page to see Airedales
working at:

http://hwc.airedale.org

__________________________________________________ _______________

Search and Rescue Activities

Another activity which Airedales are becoming more active in is Search
and Rescue. For more information on SAR activities and what it takes
to become a certified SAR dog, please visit the page maintained by
Karen Clouston. Karen is an active Airedale SAR trainer.
* http://www.worldgate.com/~dognyard/

Karen also provides pictures of working SAR dogs, and explains what
training a SAR dog means. The people that choose to train SAR must be
a dedicated as the dogs that they are training.

__________________________________________________ _______________

Frequently Asked Questions

Where can I find Airedale breeders in my area?

The Airedale Terrier Club of America maintains a membership list.
Or, check with an Airedale Rescue Organization

How should I choose a breeder? What should I expect from my breeder?

Choosing a breeder is equally as important as choosing a breed or a
puppy. You should contact sources such as the ones listed above, go
to dog shows, or talk to vets in the area. Talk to as many
different breeders as possible. You should choose a breeder that is
willing to work with you and help you choose the right animal for
you. Your breeder should ask questions of you. He/she should be
very concerned with the welfare of the puppy that is being placed
in your care. If you can visit the breeder, you should. You should
observe the interaction between the breeder and his/her animals. Do
the animals seem happy, well-cared for, and clean?

A good breeder will present you with health records, a pedigree
and, in most cases, a contract. Most of these contracts will at a
minimum stipulate that: a)the animal is in good health, b)the
animal shall be kept up-to-date on vaccinations (and other health
concerns cared for; i.e. heartworm, intestinal parasites, flea
control, etc.), c)all local leash laws be obeyed, d)the animal
shall be returned to the breeder, if for any reason, you are unable
to keep the dog, e)the animal shall be replaced in the case of
hereditary health issues that are debilitating to the animal, and
f)the animal shall be spayed or neutered (unless there is a special
agreement; i.e. potential show prospect). Many breeders will sell
puppies only on a limited registration with the AKC, unless there
is a special agreement. Your breeder should make himself/herself
available to answer questions and try to help solve problems
(should they arise) in the future. As noted in the 1998 ATCA Roster
and Information Booklet, good breeders accept responsibility for
dogs they produce and take them back if they need help,
re-evaluating and placing them in suitable new homes. Irresponsible
breeders fail to live up to these expectations.

Limited Registration

, with AKC, means that the dog is registered but no litters
produced by that dog are eligible for registration. Limited
registration means that the dog may not be entered in breed
competition at AKC licensed events, but may compete in other
licensed events such as Herding Trials and Obedience Tests.

Are Airedales good with children?

As is the case with all dogs, both the children and the dog must be
taught to respect each other. Children must be taught that taking
toys or bothering the dog while he/she is eating are not good
habits. Also, the dog should be taught that jumping on people or
"mouthing" are not acceptable traits. Every household will have a
different set of rules (which should be carefully considered before
getting any dog) which must be clearly and consistently conveyed to
everyone (adults, children, and the dog). With proper training and
patience, Airedales are wonderful with older children. I,
personally, would never leave a young child and any dog together
unattended.

It is very advisable to seek the advice of an expert in training
when introducing your dog to children. It is very important for the
dog to maintain the position of "dog" within the hierarchy without
discounting the importance and needs of the dog.

Is a fenced yard "required" for owning an Airedale?

Although a fenced yard is not a requirement for owning an Airedale,
it is a very big plus! Before bringing a dog in to your household,
you should consider what you will do on days that you are sick,
running late, or for some other reason unable to walk the dog. Many
areas have some type of leash law and, for the health of the dog,
you should never allow the dog to run freely, without some type of
boundary. Remember that Airedales were bred to hunt and terriers,
in general, will chase "furry creatures" with reckless abandon for
fun.

Is it true that Airedales are good for people with allergies?

While it is true that many people that are allergic to some other
breeds seem to have fewer problems living with Airedales, the fact
that you have allergies is not a sufficient reason to get an
Airedale. You are adding a member to your household and should
consider the temperament, size, your schedule and many other things
when selecting a pet. There are other breeds, (for example;
Poodles) which are also "less allergic", which may suit you and
yours better.

Are older Airedales adaptable into new environments? When is a rescue
or older dog a good choice for me?

Airedales are very adaptable into new environments. Like most
animals, they respond very well to loving and structured
situations. Older dogs are sometimes more desirable for a specific
situation than puppies. One example is a family or person that
simply doesn't want to deal with housebreaking a puppy. Maybe you
are a little older and want the companionship of a dog but not the
energy of a puppy. What if you are a jogger and want a companion?
(It is not advisable for a young puppy to jog!) There are lots of
situations where an older animal may be a better fit into your
home.

Older animals may include rescues (for whatever reason) or older
animals that a breeder may desire to place into a good home. Always
get as much background on an animal as possible. Medical
information should be provided. If you think that an older animal
is better for you, then you must also consider the "re-training"
that may be needed. Dependent upon the situation that the animal
comes from this could vary from housebreaking to teaching the
animal that even though it was OK to sleep on the couch at the old
house, the rules here are, on the dog bed in front of the
fireplace. One breeder suggested that a good approach when dealing
with an older animal is to treat it like a puppy, assume that
he/she knows nothing and let him/her earn their freedom.

Cindy Tittle Moore's "Your New Dog" has helpful hints and
considerations if you think and older puppy or dog might be right
for new.

Should I "crate-train" my Airedale?

In my opinion, crate training is a definite plus. It should not be
used as a substitute for training your Airedale to have manners and
live within the rules of the household but rather as a safe,
comfortable "den" for your pet to rest in. It is also a safer way
for your dog to travel. Teaching your dog that his/her crate is
his/her space can be invaluable when company arrives, when he is
being house-broken, and if your pet ever has to be confined for
medical reasons. I have experienced having a dog which went in for
major surgery and had to be sent home early, because she was
"freaking-out" at being confined. I decided then that I will never
own another animal that is not crate trained. For more information
and opinions on "crate-training", please also read Cindy Tittle
Moore's "Crating Your Dog".

__________________________________________________ _______________

Breed Clubs and Rescue Organizations

Breed Clubs

Airedale Terrier Club of America (ATCA)

Linda Baake - Secretary
4636 Old Cherry Point Rd.
New Bern, NC 28560



Please visit the ATCA website at http://www.Airedale.org for more
information on Airedales and the Airedale Terrier Club of America.

The ATCA can help you locate member clubs in your area.

Airedale Terrier Club Nederland

Han Kroon - Secretary
Pater Dr. Loffeldstraat 80
5421 TC Gemert (N.B.)
The Netherlands
Tel 31.492.362674

Airedale Terrier Club of Scotland (ATCS)

Visit the Airedale Terrier Club of Scotland home page to see what's
going on with the Scottish Airedales!

Breeders

In the United States, contact the Airedale Terrier Club of America or
regional clubs for breeder recommendations in your area.

Rescue Organizations

ATCA Rescue Committee Regional Coordinators:

Barbara Curtiss, chairperson
(860)927-3420

Northern California:
24-hr Hotline
(408)448-2523

Southern California:
Sandy Pesota
phone/fax (805)245-1257

New England:
Barbara Curtiss
860-927-3420(CONN) website newenglandairedalerescue.org

Gulf States:
Donna Noland
205-823-6666 (AL)
Chris Bettis
501-868-6688 (AR)
Cheryl Silver
512-454-7219 (TX)

South:
Kathy Dowd
919-933-7157 home online rescue application
919-405-3635

Midwest:
Carol Domeracki
616-276-6390 (MI)

Northwest:
Connie Turner cturner
503-399-9819 (OR)

Southwest:
Melissa Moore Arizona Airedale Rescue Foundation (AARF)

602-996-9648(AZ)

Mid-Atlantic:
Lou Swafford
301-572-7116(MD)

Sally Schnellmann (Florida ATCA rescue, treasurer for ATCA Rescue &
Adoption )
561-219-2222 (f)561-219-2277

Airedale Rescue of the Airedale Terrier Club of Metro. NY
Candy Kamlich (914)945-0533 or
Helena Epstein (914)735-6906

Pennsylvania::
Lynne Jensen

610-873-9054(PA)

Texas:
Dorothy Duff


Some other rescue contacts:

Chicagoland Airedale Rescue
708-839-8982
(w)708-573-5000

Western Canada:
David Moore and Margaret Glass
(604) 535-5685 (British Columbia)

NOTES:

From the 1995 ATCA Official Membership Roster & Information
Booklet:

"It amazes us how many of these unwanted dogs are absolutely
beautiful--often under long and matted coats. We are equally
impressed that their temperaments are most often sweet and
appreciative of our attentions, with no adverse effects from the
ordeals they must have endured. Although the origins of many of
these dogs remains unknown, we all too often discover that some
Airedales purchased in pet shops are not far removed from some of
the breed's top dogs and bloodlines.

Airedales for adoption are kept in foster homes. During the time it
takes to find the right home, they are evaluated for temperament
and personality. Dogs of questionable temperament are euthanized.
All dogs are neutered or spayed, given all shots that are due,
tested for heartworm, treated for internal and external parasites
when necessary, and properly groomed and bathed."

Contact any of the above for more regional contacts. Also, check
the Rescue FAQ for more contacts.

If you are interested in providing FOSTER CARE, please contact the
regional coordinator nearest you.

__________________________________________________ _______________

References

Books

The New Airedale Terrier
June Dutcher and Janet Framke Howell Book House Macmillan Publishing
Company 866 Third Avenue New York, NY 10022

The Complete Dog Book - 18th Edition
The American Kennel Club Howell Book House Macmillan Publishing
Company 866 Third Avenue New York, NY 10022

Your Airedale
Barbara Strebeigh and Pauline I. McCready Denlinger's Box 76 Fairfax,
Va 22030

Airedale Terriers
Evelyn Miller T.F.H. Publications One T.F.H. Plaza Neptune City, NJ
07753

The Complete Airedale (out of print)
Gladys Brown Edwards Howell Book House 730 Fifth Avenue New York, NY
10019

The Working Airedale
Bryan Cummins OTR Publications PO Box 481 Centreville, AL 35042

Periodicals

The American Airedale (quarterly for ATCA members) Please contact the
ATCA for more information.

Membership information:

Terrier Type
PO Box Drawer A
La Honda, CA 94020
(415)747-0549

Airedale Resources on the InterNet

There is a Terrier-L (a mailing list) to which you can subscribe, and
get helpful information and opinions on all types of terriers.

To subscribe, send email to with no subject line
and SUBSCRIBE TERRIER-L YourFirstName YourLastName in the body of the
message.

There is also an AIREDALE-L. To subscribe, send the following message
to:

subscribe AIREDALE-L Your Name

You will get a message asking you to confirm your subscription. Follow
the instructions carefully.

There is also a WorkingADT-L for those interested in SAR and other
aspects of working the king of terriers.

To subscribe, send email to: with no
subject line and subscribe WORKINGADT-L your-name in the body of the
message.

__________________________________________________ _______________


Airedale Terrier FAQ

Kathy Dowd,
__________________________________________________ _______________
]]> Dog info Kathy Dowd http://www.dogbanter.com/46041-rec-pets-dogs-airedale-terrier.html http://www.dogbanter.com/46040-rec-pets-dogs-shiba-inus.html Sun, 09 Jun 2013 05:47:12 GMT Archive-name: dogs-faq/breeds/shibas
Posting-frequency: 30 days
URL: http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/shibas.html
Last-modified: 20 Jan 1900

=======
There are many FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
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via email by sending your message to with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.

This article is Copyright 1997 by the Author(s) listed below.
It may be freely distributed on the Internet in its entirety without
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It may NOT reside at another website (use links, please) other
than the URL listed above without the permission of the Author(s).
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==========


Shiba Inus

Author

Jacey Holden. Copyright 1995 by Jacey Holden. Reproduced and posted to
Usenet with permission. Contact Liz Kinoshita )
for details. The booklet is entitled Introduction to the Shiba Inu; it
has been reformatted for electronic distribution.

Table of Contents

* Introduction to the Shiba Inu
* Temperament
* Health
* Where to Find a Shiba
* Additional Information
* Living With a Shiba
* Food
* Housing
* Crate Training
* Exercise
* Play
* Veterinarians & Vaccinations
* Early Socialization
* Training
* Shibas and Children
* Spay & Neuter
* Coat
* Fleas
* Collars & Tattooing
* How to Learn More
* Standard for the Shiba Inu
__________________________________________________ _______________

Introduction to the Shiba Inu

If you are already this far, you have probably caught your first
glimpse of a Shiba. It may have been at a dog show, walking in the
park, or just a picture in a book. Cute, huh? The Shiba is probably
one of the most universally appealing of all breeds. It has the look
toy manufacturers try to capture in their favorite stuffed animals,
the teddy bear. But the Shiba is not a toy. It is a very lively little
dog with a unique set of characteristics. Each one is a individual
with his/her own personality, but there are some traits that are
considered typical of the breed. The first part of this booklet will
attempt to describe those qualities as well as give you an overview of
the breed as a whole. The second part will try to help the new Shiba
owner adjust to his new dog so that the years they spend together will
be ones of mutual enjoyment!
__________________________________________________ _______________

A Brief History of the Shiba Inu

Originally, Shibas were bred to flush birds and small game and were
occasionally used to hunt wild boar. Now they are primarily kept as
pets, both in Japan and the US. There are more Shibas in Japan than
any other breed.

Around 7000 BC the ancestors of today`s Shibas may have accompanied
the earliest immigrants to Japan. Archaeological excavations of the
shell-mounds left by the Jomonjin, or Rope-Pattern People (a name
derived from the pattern found on their earthenware), show that they
had small dogs in the 14.5 to 19.5 inch range.

In the third century BC, a new group of immigrants brought their dogs
to Japan These dogs then interbred with the decendants of the Jomonjin
dogs, and produced canines known to have pointed, erect ears and curly
or sickle tails. In the 7th century AD, the Yamato Court established a
dogkeeper's office which helped maintain the Japanese native breeds as
an integral part of Japanese culture. Although the country was closed
to foreigners from the 17th through 18th centuries, some European dogs
and a breed known as the Chinese Chin were imported and crossed with
native dogs living in the more populated areas. Dogs in the
countryside, however, remained relatively pure.

Originally there were three main varieties of Shiba, each named for
its region of origin: the Shinshu Shiba, from the Nagano Prefecture;
the Mino Shiba, from the Gifu Prefecture; and the Sanin Shiba from the
northeastern part of the mainland. Although similar, the Shibas from
each area contributed to differences in breed type seen today.

From the original Japanese native dogs, six distinct "breeds" in three
different sizes developed. They are the Akita (large size); Kishu,
Hokkaido, Shikoku, Kai (medium size); and the Shiba (small size). The
small sized dog has been called the Shiba since ancient times, and
there are several theories surrounding the development of that name.
One popular explaination is that the word Shiba means "brushwood", and
the dogs were named for the brushwood bushes where they hunted.
Another theory is that the fiery red color of the Shiba is the same as
the autumn color of the brushwood leaves. A third conjec ture is
related to an obsolete meaning of the word shiba, referring to its
small size. These explanations are often combined and the Shiba is
referred to as the "little brushwood dog".

World War II nearly spelled disaster for the Shiba, and most of the
dogs that did not perish in bombing raids succumbed to distemper
during the post-war years.

While the Mino and Sanin Shibas became practically extinct, more of
the Shinshu Shibas survived. After the war, Shibas were brought from
the remote countryside and breeding programs were established. The
remnants of the various bloodlines were combined to produce the breed
as it is known today.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Physical Characteristics

The Shiba is a very proportionate dog with a height to length ratio of
10 to 11. Males run from 14.5 to 16.5 inches tall, with females
ranging from 13.5 to 15.5 inches.Height over the upper limits is a
disqualification.The weight varies according to height up to about 25
pounds. It is a medium boned, moderately compact and well muscled dog
with a generally spitz-like appearance.

Because of its hunting heritage, it should be quick, agile and able to
turn on a yen. It has a dense double coat similar to that of a husky.
Although all colors are acceptable in the Shiba standard, red, red
sesame (sable) and black & tan are preferred. White and cream shadings
are present of the legs, belly, chest and part of the face and tail.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Temperament

With black button nose, little pricked ears and a curly tail, the
Shiba enters the world knowing he is a superior being. Whether with
intrepid boldness, squinty-eyed cuteness or calm dignity, he is KING.

The Japanese have three words to describe the Shiba temperament. The
first word is "kan-i" which is bravery and boldness combined with
composure and mental strength. The opposite of "kan-i" is "ryosei"
which means good nature with a gentle disposition. One cannot exist
without the other. The charming side of the Shiba is "soboku" which is
artlessness with a refined and open spirit. They combine to make a
personality that Shiba owners can only describe as "irrisistable"!

If a Shiba could utter one word, it would probably be "mine". It is
"mine" food, "mine" water, "mine" toys, "mine" sofa, "mine" crate,
"mine" car, "mine" owner, and "mine" world. Sharing is a concept he
feels others should practice He doesn't want you to forget those
wonderful things your mother taught you about generosity!

If the bait is dangled when a potential Shiba owner sees adults at a
dog show or pictures in a magazine, the hook is set when he encounters
his first puppy! Exemplary examples of canine cuteness, fiery little
fuzzballs-from-hell, no words can describe the appeal of the infant
Shiba. A litter of Shibas is a Dakin convention and a school of
pirahna; strutting, posturing little windup toys!

The adult Shiba is far from a toy. "Macho Stud Muffin" has been used
to describe the male Shiba. The body may look "muffin", but the mind
is all "macho stud". The Shiba takes the "spirited boldness" part of
his temperament quite seriously. Early socialization, temperament
testing, and careful conditi oning are mandatory for the young puppy.
This fiery aspect of the Shiba nature cannot be taken lightly.

Most Shiba owners learn to deal with the difficult aspects of the
dog's temper ament in order to enjoy the delightful ones. With
"soboku", the Shiba sets his hook into the heart. This is
"artlessness" with squinty-eyes, airplaned ears, and a vibrating tail.
It is "charm" standing in your lap washing your ears, and "dignity"
plus "refinement" born of the knowledge of superiority.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Health

As a breed, Shibas can rightfully be described as sturdy, healthy
little dogs, able to withstand the rigors of outdoor life as well as
enjoying the comfort of indoor dwelling. They are easy keepers,
requiring no special diet other than good comercial dog food, and they
can run for miles with an athletic companion or take their exercise
chasing a tennis ball around the backyard. Their catlike agility and
resilience provide good resistance to injury, and the "natural" size
and symmetrical proportions lessen susceptibility to conditions caused
by structural imbalance. Despite these assets, Shibas do have some
hereditary defects which all reli able breeders screen for in their
breeding stock. Patellar luxation is common in toy breeds and
sometimes appears in Shibas. It causes loose kneecaps and is usually
not severe enough to be detrimental to a pet. An experienced
veterinarian can detect this condition by palpation. Hip dysplasia
occasionally occurs but it is not as serious in the Shiba as it is in
large breeds of dogs. Mild dysplasia will not show any adverse
clinical effects and the dog will lead a normal life. Good breeders
will not breed any dog whose hips have not received a rating of "fair"
or better from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. Breeders are
also checking their Shiba's eyes for hereditary eye defects. No breed
of dog is totally free of hereditary eye defects. Few defects are
severe enough to cause blindness or interfere with a dog's life, but
dogs with eye defects that are potentially blinding should not be
bred. A smattering of other defects have been reported, but none in
numbers to cause concern at this time. Reputable breeders do all they
can to screen for serious defects and will guarantee their puppies to
be free of disabling heredi tary problems for the first few years of
life.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Where to Find a Shiba

If you have made it far enough to obtain this booklet, you have
probably been admonished to buy from a reputable breeder. Where are
they? You may look in the newspaper, but namy of the most reputable
breeders use other methods of advertising. It is best to check with
the National Shiba Club of America which is the National organization
for the Shiba. If you call AKC, that organ ization will give you the
number of the Secretary of the NSCA. Breeders are also listed in Dog
World magazine and in publications geared for the Shiba breed. Check
the next page of this booklet for names and addresses of these
publications and the NSCA.

Let your best instincts guide you when choosing a breeder. Don't pick
a puppy because you feel sorry for it or want to "rescue" it. This is
an animal that will be sharing your life and the life of your family
for the next 12 years or so. Take your time. If it doesn't feel right,
it probably isn't. Remember, people become stupid about their Shibas,
so it`s best to become stupid about a nice one.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Additional Information

Parent Club

The addresses of the Parent Club, the National Shiba Club of America,
may change annually. This organization has printed materials, a
monthly news- letter and a Breeder Referral Service. The address of
the NSCA Secretary can always be obtained from the American Kennel
Club, 51 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10010 or 5580 Centerview Dr.
Ste.200, Raleigh, NC 27606-3390. $4.50 (US) to the NSCA secretary will
bring you an information packet and a Breeder Referral list. The club
also has a web site at http://www.shibas.org/ with the current address
of the secretary.

Publications

Shibas USA
Debbie Meador, Editor
5271 Hillside Dr
Warrenton, VA 22186

Shibas
by Rick Tomita

by Gretchen Haskett and Susan Houser
Published by Alpine Publications
ISBN: 09318669887.

The Complete Shiba Inu
by Maureen Atkinson, published by Howell
__________________________________________________ _______________

Living With a Shiba

If you are really considering taking the plunge, then the next section
is for you. Don`t forget that Shiba people get really crazy about
their dogs and owning a Shiba is not just owning a dog, but a way of
life.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Food

Before bringing home your Shiba it is best to have a supply of food on
hand. Several boxes of granola, some oranges (for vitamin C) and a few
sandwiches should give you enough energy to keep up with the little
guy. Even though the Shiba would prefer to share your dinner, it is
best to buy him a top quality dog food, one containing about 30%
protein and 15 - 18% fat. Do not think in terms of a human diet when
feeding a puppy. An 8 week old Shiba will eat approximately 1/3 Cup of
puppy food three times daily. He may be given this moistened in
separate feedings, or, if he is not too greedy, he may have dry kibble
available at all times. If he is being fed three times a day,
gradually increase the food as he grows and his appetite increases. He
may be cut to twice a day at about 4 months of age or if he loses
interest in a meal. A healthy puppy is neither too fat or too thin.

You should be able to feel his ribs, backbone and hip bones, but not
see them. An adult Shiba will eat from 1 to 1.5 cups of kibble per day
depending on his size and energy level.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Housing

A Shiba lives with the principle - su casa es mi casa. He will want to
sleep on your bed, eat at your table and rest on your favorite chair.
A puppy will also wish to dismantle your VCR wiring, chew the straps
off your sandals, round the corners of your kitchen cabinets and, if
not watched closely, will definately light up his life with the
electrical cords. If any of these behaviors disturbs you, you may wish
to invest in a crate and possibly an exercise pen.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Crate Training

All puppies should be crate trained. It is the best way to housebreak
a puppy and a safe refuge during the night and when he can't be
watched.

A size 200 airline crate will suit a Shiba for his entire life and
will also fit on the back seat of almost any car. He can ride safely
in a crate in the car, and with a little ingenuity, a crate can be
seat belted or bungied into place. When you're not home, you will
never wonder where your puppy is or what he is doing if he is in a
crate or exercise pen.

Keeping a puppy in a crate day and night is not good, and even though
he may be exercised, it is akin to you staying in bed, going out
jogging, and going back to bed again. While the puppy is small, an
exercise pen set in the kitchen, garage or in any room of the house on
top of a six foot by six foot piece of inexpensive linolium is an
ideal place to leave the puppy while you're at work. This allows the
puppy room to move around and play while keeping him safe and
comfortable in the house.

Later, when he is mature, he may be allowed free access to the house
or yard. The Shiba is an excellent indoor/outdoor dog with a coat that
will protect him from both heat and cold. He must have shelter from
the sun in summer and storms in winter, but he can withstand a wide
range of temperatures.

Unless you plan to give your Shiba all his exercise on a leash, a
fenced yard is mandatory. Nothing is more devastating than going out
to find your beloved Shiba is a $600 carpet remnant on the street in
front of your house. No amount of training will deter your little
hunting dog from darting across the street to chase the neighbor's cat
-- at just the wrong time. This is true of any breed of dog. Dogs also
dig and some climb. Check frequently for possible escape routes. A
Shiba is safest indoors or in an escape-proof run when you are away
from home.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Exercise

Shibas are an active breed, but don't need many acres on which to run.
They can get adequate exercise banking off the couch and spinning
brodies on the bed, but to get in good condition, they need additional
exercise. On the 2,000 acre mountain ranch where Chris Ross lives, his
Shibas are allowed to run free when he is home.

With all this room, most seldom stray very far from the house until he
goes on his daily "run". Dogs like to go for walks with their people,
and for many it is more exciting than eating. A wheelchair-bound Shiba
owner takes his two dogs for a four mile "walk" every day around the
streets of suburbia. The majority of people snap on the retractible
lead and make a morning(or evening) tour of the neighborhood.

It is a good exercise for both man and beast and a great way to meet
the neighbors!
__________________________________________________ _______________

Play

Given a choice, a Shiba puppy will usually choose human body parts as
his favorite chew toys. Fingers and toes are preferred, especially if
covered with socks or sandals. He will enjoy ankles, pantlegs and the
ultimate - shoe laces on the shoes you are wearing. If you wish to
expand his horizons and preserve your flesh, a visit to the pet supply
store is a fine place to start. Hardware stores also carry a supply of
delectable goodies such as the business end of a toilet plunger,
handles for garden tools and rubber golashes. Around the house you may
find old stuffed animals, socks that can be tied in knots, dirty
sneakers, and tennis balls. A trip to the country can bring pine
cones, sticks and oak galls which are excellent for dismembering
outdoors. Shibas are not seriously destructive but puppies are
puppies, and puppies chew! Even adults like to gnaw on something once
in a while. If your puppy chews the straps off your favorite sandals
it will make you very angry, but don`t take it out on the puppy for it
was your fault for leaving them where the puppy could get them!

A very successful sled dog driver lived with 12 large Alaskan Huskies
in his house. His home was not destroyed by the animals and everyone
lived together amicably. This man handled his dogs by the philosophy
that dogs do not make mistakes; people do.

It's something to think about.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Veterinarians & Vaccinations

Since Shibas are a healthy, hardy little breed, they seldom need trips
to the vet except for routine vaccinations and an occasional teeth
cleaning. Your new puppy should be taken to the vet of your choice
within a few days of purchase. Most breeders require this as a
condition of the puppy's health guarantee. The vet should check his
overall condition, his heart for possible murmurs, and have you bring
in a stool sample for a parasite examination. A puppy should already
have had a least one vaccination from the breeder prior to his sale.
You can set up a continued vaccination schedule with your vet during
this first check-up.

Puppies should have a complete set of vaccinations before exposing
them to situations where many other dogs have been. These vaccinations
are against distemper, hepatitis, kennel cough, parvovirus and
coronavirus. Often the first shots do not contain a vaccine against
letospirosis (lepto). Lepto has frequently been fingered as the "bad
guy" in vaccine reaction and vaccine manufacturers had a difficult
time combining it with coronavirus vaccine into a single injection.

Since puppies are much more likely to be exposed to coronavirus than
lepto, many breeders and veterinarians prefer to wait until the puppy
is three to four months old before giving an injection with lepto.
Several Shiba puppies have experienced anaphylactoid reactions to
vaccine on their second injection even when it did not contain lepto.
This is the same severe allergic reaction some people experience when
stung by a bee. Epinepherine must be administered immediately, so a
veterinarian should be warned of the possibility of a reaction. A
puppy should remain in the waiting room of the vet's office for 15 to
20 minutes after his injection to ensure there is no reaction. Rabies
shots are given at four months of age.

Rabies is the only vaccination required by law. All others are for the
puppy's health.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Early Socialization

A trip to the mall or neighborhood park will bring you all the
attention you can handle. This may be wonderful for a young man
looking for a date, but it can be deadly for a small puppy. Until a
puppy is fully immunized against parvovirus, at about the age of 20
weeks, it is not safe to take him to areas frequented by other dogs.
Many people solve this problem by taking the dog to visit friends and
relatives in "clean" environments and asking them to return the favor.
Some Shibas may be shy of strangers while others are dog aggressive.
Early socialization is mandatory to obtain the best possible
temperament from a puppy.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Training

It is well established that if you are not somewhat trainable and
flexible, you will have a difficult time adjusting to a Shiba. Shibas
want their owners to come when called, fetch when they want food, stay
off the furniture they want for a nap and speak whenever someone wants
to talk about Shibas. Owners too feel they should be able to make a
few polite requests from their dogs Sometimes there is a small power
struggle, but the owner must establish that he is in control.

Housebreaking is easy and something that Shibas do naturally. If a
puppy is taken out whenever he awakes from a nap or after a meal, he
will almost never soil in the house and especially not in a restricted
area such as a crate. A puppy as young as five weeks can hold his
bowels all night, but not his bladder. He will want out or will wet on
a blanket or paper in his exercise pen. As soon as the puppy figures
where "out" is, he will try to go there to potty. This becomes easy
when there is a door directly to a back yard. Leashbreaking is not as
natural for the Shiba as housebreaking. It involves something they
truly detest - restraint. It is best to put on a snug collar or soft
nylon choke collar and let the puppy wear it around for a while.
Attach a leash and let the puppy take you for a walk. You go where he
goes. After a few times, you can suggest he follow you. He may pull
back and scream a little, but that is natural.

Encouragement and praise help, and soon he will be walking with you.
Never leave a choke collar on an unattended puppy and never tie up a
dog with a choke collar. A dog can easily hang himself by a choke
collar just by getting tangled in something as simple as a bush. Some
Shibas can carry around their distain for collar and leash all their
lives. They do it in the form of the patented "Shiba Shake", where
they cock their heads sideways as if something was in their ear then
stop and shake violently. Amazingly, this "ear problem" goes away the
minute the leash is removed, and returns the minute the dog is near
the show ring.

The fiery aspect of the Shiba temperament is apparent at an early age.
Even as puppies they stage mock battles and make much noise as they
vie for top honors. With people they are all kissy-face, but with
other dogs, and especially other Shibas, they are macho little
muffins. There is a wide range of variation in this aspect of a young
Shibas temperament and difficulties should be discussed with the
breeder. Many Shiba puppies are just playful and not quarrelsome, but
others are more serious. All like to play with other dogs once they
are acquainted. Just as there are hundreds of books on child rearing,
there are as many theories on how to deal with canine temperament.

Dog trainers who are not familiar with the Shiba temperament may only
make the problem worse. Shibas seem to work well with the reward
system. They easily learn commands like sit, and down, and such parlor
tricks as roll over, speak and sit up. Obedience work done on lead is
readily acquired, but a Shiba who reliably "comes" on command is any
situation is rare indeed. There are a few who learn boundaries, come
when called, even when chasing a cat, and can wander loose in any
situation. These are exceptional and usually a combination of an
extremely responsive temperament plus diligent training. It is
realistic to expect that the average owner with the average Shiba will
not have that situation. Most Shibas will not wander miles from home,
but will want to investigate every nook and cranny within a larger
radius than the owner is comfortable. Expect your Shiba to be an "on
leash" breed and if he proves otherwise, then you are amoung the
fortunate.

Do not feel your Shiba is untrainable, for he is is not. Shibas love
"agility" training as it is a natural for their athletic ability. They
are smart and enjoy activities that challenge their mind and body. If
you work with the Shiba nature rather than against it, training will
be fun for both.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Shibas and Children

The responsible Shiba owner asks himself, what type of child would he
like for his favorite dog. It would be a child with a good nature and
stable temperament, one that was gentle and most of all, easy to
train. A child of an extremely energetic nature or whose hearing is
too selective may be better suited to a larger, more docile breed.

Interactable children should have animals made of plastic, or maybe
cement. All dogs, and especially puppies, regard very small children
as peers rather than superiors. Puppies will try to play with children
as they would another puppy, particularly if the child falls on the
floor or runs around making squealing noises. Nothing was more
misleading than an advertisement aired on television a few years ago
depicting a two year old child rolling around on the ground, laughing
while being bombarded by about six small Labrador puppies What wasn`t
shown were the tears that must have followed as the puppies sharp
nails raked the child`s tender skin and the puppies pulled at his
hair. The responsibility of how a puppy interacts with children falls
on the parents. Most trainable children over six years of age should
have no trouble adjusting to a Shiba puppy. Dog oriented people find
it easy acclimating a Shiba to a household with children. People with
little dog experience should visit several households with Shibas.

DO NOT FALL IN LOVE WITH A SHIBA AT A DOG SHOW AND IMMEDIATELY RUN OUT
AND BUY ONE. Take time to visit the dogs in the home environment. See
how they react to children and let your intuition be your best guide.
When adults visit a home with Shiba puppies, they usually sit and wait
for the puppies to come to them. Children tend to pursue the puppies.
Shibas do not like to be continually restrained and manhandled.
Although a well socialized puppy will tolerate some of this, too much
will make him shy or irritated. It is absolutely necessary that a
child learn to sit and let the puppy come to him. It is difficult to
train a child who is used to running in and out of the house at will
to close the door quickly and make sure the Shiba doesn't get out. It
is even more difficult to train the child`s friends. Training the
puppy and child when little can make the child aware of the necessity
to use a double door system or exercising caution when going in and
out, but it is up to the parent to watch when visitors come and to put
the puppy out of harm`s way.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Spay & Neuter

For many people, the decision to neuter a male dog is somehow tied
into their own sexuality. Maybe it should be, for the amourous
intentions of the stimulated male Shiba are only rivaled by those of
Geraldo Rivera and Wilt Chamberlain. Many people would rather have a
female as a pet. They see the female having a gentler nature and not
having the desire to continually mark territory. Spaying a female does
little to change her basic temperament, just as a hysterectomy does
little to change a woman. It just prevents pregnancy. On the other
hand, neutering a male dog has a great effect on the male temperament,
just as castration would have on a man.

Neutering a male before the age of six months will usually prevent
marking and other "big guy" ideas. Females should be spayed at about 5
months of age, before they have their first heat cycle. This makes it
easier on the little girl as the uterus is small and the female lean.
Recovery is quick and after a few days, you won't know anything has
been done. Sometimes it takes up to eight months or more for a Shiba
male`s testicles to drop into the scrotum. They seldom fail to arrive,
and if the vet can locate them at all, he can perform the castration.
DON'T POSTPONE IT!
__________________________________________________ _______________

Coat

Shibas SHED. You would too if you were wearing a wool coat in summer.
All dogs with double coats shed, even Dobermans, Labradors, and
Whippets. Those breeds with single coats that don`t shed, such as
poodles and terriers, need clipping or constant brushing to keep their
coats from matting. You have a choice - clip, brush or vacuum. A Shiba
could go his whole life without ever experiencing a brush, comb or
bath and be just as happy. Shibas have little odor to their fur unless
they have rolled in something pungent. Show dogs are often bathed
weekly while pets are occasionally shampooed at the owners whim. All
seem to have healthy coats.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Fleas

Fleas are the scourge of pet ownership. The flea most commonly found
on the dog is the cat flea. Cats are flea farmers and outdoor cats
spread fleas from yard to yard to yard like dandelion seeds. Methods
for treatment are so varied and controversial that they are a book in
themselves. If fleas are eradicated from the environment, they will
soon vanish from the dog. Fleas like warm, moist, sheltered
environments and do not tolerate direct sun, dryness or extreme cold.
Fleas do not survive outdoors in arid environments, but thrive in the
warm, damp summers of the majority of the US. The indoor environment
can be treated with desiccating powders and many professionals such as
"Flea Busters" use these products with much success. It takes about
six weeks for them to work. Avon "Skin So Soft" bath oil does help
repel fleas. A small amount rubbed through the coat leaves an aromatic
residue that is distasteful to fleas (and some humans). It's only
drawback is the oily residue it leaves on the hair that works like a
"dust magnet". Most commercial flea products are toxic. How else could
they kill the fleas? Start slow and work your way up the the "hard
stuff". If a flea allergy develops it is often less harmful to the dog
to get an occasional cortizone injection or a few pills to stop the
itching than it is to saturate the environment with poison to
eradicate every flea - an almost impossible task.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Collars & Tattooing

It is a good idea for a Shiba to wear a collar with identification
tags or plates attached. Some collar distributors will print the
owner's phone number in large letters that can be seen without
touching the dog. Unfortunately, many Shibas that end up in the pound
have lost their collars. Show dogs can`t wear collars because it
leaves an ugly ring around the neck.

Tattooing is an additional method of identification. It is usually
placed on the inside of the dog`s thigh. Although it is permanently
attached to the dog, a person finding a lost dog may not look on the
dog`s leg for a tattoo, and if he does look, may not know what to do
about it. Hopefully, most animal shelter personnel will look and know
who to contact. The AKC is strongly encouraging all dog owners to
tattoo their dogs for two reasons. One is the hope that a lost or
stolen dog can be returned to its owner, and the other is for the
definitive identification. The AKC wants it to be possible for any
stranger to go into a household and identify the dogs. If the dogs are
tattooed with the AKC registration number, the dogs can be identified
with the registration papers or the records at the AKC. This would
also assist in the dispute over ownership of a dog. The AKC
registration number is like the dog's Social Security number; it's his
identification for life.
__________________________________________________ _______________

How to Learn More

The best place to learn about Shibas is from other Shiba owners. The
breeder of your puppy should be your primary source of information.
Sometimes this is difficult as the breeder may live far away or be
extremely difficult to contact. Ask the breeder for names of other
Shiba owners in your area and feel free to contact them. People love
to talk about their dogs. Organize a gathering of Shiba owners in your
area and have a potluck. It's a Shiba owners support group!
__________________________________________________ _______________

Standard for the Shiba Inu

The AKC Standard for this breed may be found at
http://www.akc.org/shibainu.htm.
__________________________________________________ _______________


Shiba Inu FAQ
Jacey Holden

Hosted by
K9 WEB
]]> Dog info Liz Kinoshita http://www.dogbanter.com/46040-rec-pets-dogs-shiba-inus.html http://www.dogbanter.com/46039-smart-rescues-puppies-la.html Sun, 02 Jun 2013 11:53:38 GMT http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpRoPs8zgZk -- Alison, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpRoPs8zgZk

--
Alison,


]]> Dog behavior http://www.dogbanter.com/46039-smart-rescues-puppies-la.html http://www.dogbanter.com/46038-akc-german-shorthaired-puppies-sale.html Wed, 29 May 2013 12:34:36 GMT Great hunting breed. Sire has "national field champion" and "field champion" bloodlines in pedigree. Tails docked and dew claws removed. Born May 13th - will be ready weekend of July 6th. All health records, deworming, and shots will be done up to 8 weeks. $500 each. Currently males and females available. Contact me by phone: 970-817-9973 or email: with "GSP puppies" in subject line so I can pull you out of my junk mail folder.
]]> Dog behavior cindyinpagosa@gmail.com http://www.dogbanter.com/46038-akc-german-shorthaired-puppies-sale.html http://www.dogbanter.com/46037-2013-wsava-vaccination-guidelines-new.html Tue, 28 May 2013 14:10:10 GMT 2013 World Small Animal Veterinary Association VACCINATION GUIDELINES FOR NEW PUPPY OWNERS http://www.wsava.org/sites/default/f... ay%202013.pdf

" 2. The WSAVA also states that the last puppy vaccine against the core diseases should be given at 14-16 weeks of age. This is because, before this time, the mother passes immunity to her puppies, and this ‘maternal immunity’ can prevent the vaccine from working.


3. A high percentage (98%) of core puppy vaccines given between 14-16 weeks of age will provide immunity against parvovirus, distemper and adenovirus for many years, and probably for the life of the animal .

6. The WSAVA supports the use of titre testing. ...." ]]> Dog health Kris L. Christine http://www.dogbanter.com/46037-2013-wsava-vaccination-guidelines-new.html