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training a husky
i have recently moved into a new family and they have 2 year old husky. im also the only one capable of looking after her at the moment. she constantly pulls when im taking her for walks and jumps up on people when they walk past... is there any way i could train her to stop doing it?
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#2
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training a husky
Yes, she can be trained not to pull. Do keep in mind that the Siberian
was developed to run and to pull, so it's deeply instinctive and by now is a habit.... so an Experienced, Proven-effective hobby (competes in obedience trials and teaches for a kennel club or obedience/dog training club) or professional trainer (has own training location, should also compete in the sport of obedience) can help you avoid total frustration. The vet clinic staff of the clinic the family uses can usually refer you to the best trainer(s) in your area. Contact that source of training and set up an interview/enroll in their basic obedience class. Typically, new classes will begin in January or March..... Don't bother with a training class at a big box pet store; instructors rarely have the right knowlege, experience, and skills to be effective.... waste of money and time. Things covered in this class are all usually very useful around home: walking with a loose lead, come, sit, down, (stay), maybe stand, turns.... as a Minimum. Classes are typically 6-8 weeks in length, one hour, once a week, with homework (where I teach, this class is 10 weeks in length, and covers more). The instructor will determine what kind of training collar is needed. I prefer a leash that is no more than 4 feet long.... and the dog Rarely gets control of that whole length. A harness on a Sibe will simply result in you being pulled. USELESS for training. To START the process until you start a class or private instruction.... there is a fun game you can play with the dog.... before and During a walk. It's called Sneak Away. To get ready; snug up the dog's collar at the top of the neck, right at the angle of the lower jaw.... too snug for even one finger to slide inside that collar.... so the dog can't flip it's head out of the collar. Attach leash. To avoid you being injured (pulled down and or broken arm) NEVER EVER wrap the leash around your hand or your wrist EVER!!!!!!!! Put the loop of the leash on your Right thumb, loop up extra leash over that thumb as many times as necessary to leave about 3 feet of leash between your hand and the dog's neck.... close hand around leash. Place that hand on your belly button. Place left hand on top of right hand. Keep hands in that place. Now, the dog "let's go" and start walking. THE INSTANT the leash goes straight from your hand to the dog's neck, briskly Back Up, Turn Away from Dog to your right. or Turn Around and face the opposite direction and keep moving. DO NOT warn the dog of what move you are about to make. Keep moving and changing direction as indicated by the straight leash. You can quietly Verbally praise the dog when it makes the direction change without hitting the end of the leash, and when you catch it looking at you, and when you can walk for any distance with the leash hanging in a relaxed postion between you. ALTERNATELY. Fit collar as above. Hold leash in right hand as above. In left jacket pocket, place a handful of treats. These can be Pea-Size bits of Pupperoni, string cheese, hot dog, leftover meat... soft stuff with nice scent that does not require chewing. Use a treat in your left hand to move the dog to your left side. Give the treat. Get at least one more treat in your hand, tell dog, "let's go" and hold the hand with the treat maybe 2-3 inches in front of the left side seam of your pants. Start walking Briskly and with purpose. You can go straight forward and turn to either direction, up to you. Dog's nose will follow the treat. Without stopping, let dog have treat every ten feet or so, for first few times. But Keep Hand in That Location! Leash should sag nicely between you at all times. As the dog stays best in postition most of the time, you can stretch out the distance travelled between treats given. THEN, you can start to introduce short distances without the treat in your left hand until you are ready to give it. These will get you started. They are teaching tools, not the finished product. The finished product is a dog that does not ever pull the leash straight, and certainly does not pull on the leash. You will Probably (98% probability) need guidance from someone physically present to see what you and the dog are each doing. Jo Wolf Martinez, Georgia, USA |
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