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Training out your dog's Separation Anxiety without inadvertentlyrewarding him



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 20th 12, 11:15 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Chris Harvey
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Default Training out your dog's Separation Anxiety without inadvertentlyrewarding him

My dog Axel has moderate separation anxiety. When I get ready to leave (put my shoes on, pick up my keys, etc.) his ears go down and he tucks his tail.. When I am gone, he displays NO destructive behavior, thankfully, but he does bark a lot. I can hear him begin to whine after I leave and my neighbors tell me he barks a lot awhile after. I believe however, that this persists for only about 20-30 minutes. After that time frame he is completely fine.. I let him sleep on my bed and look out the window when I am gone.

I've tried crating him before, but I think this made it worse because he was isolated in a confined space. I also used to lock him in my room (also his room, with food and water) but I stopped for the same reason. Another reason I believe contributes to his barking is that he cannot watch me leave. At my parents' house, he is able to look out the window and watch me get in my car and drive off, and *to my knowledge* he does not excessively bark at that location. Because of those reasons, I now let him roam around the apartment and watch me walk out the door, instead of locking him in my room or in his crate where he cannot see me leave. It may make matters better, but still does not completely solve the problem.

Lately, I have been reading online articles about how to "train out" separation anxiety in dogs. Basically, they all say the same thing: slowly introduce your dog to the idea that it's okay for him to be without you. For example, put on your shoes and pick up your keys but sit back down again. Then do the same thing and walk out the door but then right back in. Then the same thing but only drive around the block. The idea is to gradually increase the amount of time your dog is without you.

I have a few questions about this method and I was hoping for some expert answers/advice. First of all, one of the steps calls for walking out the door, waiting for a few seconds, then when the dog starts to bark, come right back in. I fear that my dog will see my return as a reward for barking, or his barking caused my return, thereby only reinforcing his barking. Am I supposed to come right back in immediately BEFORE he starts to bark? How am I supposed to do this?

My second question is about rewarding him for being quiet (later on in the process). After my dog eventually stops barking (20-30 minutes), I'm supposed to wait a bit and reward him for being quiet. How exactly do I play this out? I suspect I'm supposed to leave the house, wait for him to stop barking, then once he stops, wait a few more minutes and come back in and give him a treat? I've always heard to reduce separation anxiety owners should make their entrances and exits low-key (e.g. ignoring your dog for 5 minutes before you leave and after you enter). How can I reward him for being quiet as soon as I come in if this is the exact opposite of making my entrance low-key? If I do wait 5 minutes after entering to reward him for being quiet, this reward will not have occurred during or immediately after the desired behavior. He won't know what he's being rewarded for.

All these articles on reducing excessive barking caused by separation anxiety seem like they know what they're talking about, but they seem to forget a few of the details like I've mentioned above.

Please, if anyone has any good, professional advice for my situation, I would really appreciate it. I don't want to cause any more problems with my neighbors.

P.S.: I have bought a citronella-spray bark collar, which is in the mail right now. I believe it is a good temporary fix but I have heard that it will not cure the underlying problem, which is WHY the dog is barking in the first place: separation anxiety. The bark collar will be a temporary treatment but his anxiety will manifest in alternative behavior such as digging, urinating, or chewing on furniture, I fear. Thus I want to focus primarily on my dog's loneliness instead of his barking at the superficial level. Getting another pet is not an option.
  #2  
Old May 20th 12, 11:28 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Chris Harvey
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Default Training out your dog's Separation Anxiety without inadvertentlyrewarding him

P.P.S.:

There is a proposal site for pet care & training in the Commitment stage on the StackExchange Network. If anyone is a member of the SE Network, please commit to this site to help it reach the Beta stage.
http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/5489/pet-care-training?referrer=UWLrcRVQnuT5oXFxRs30IQ2
  #3  
Old May 21st 12, 06:06 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Jo Wolf
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Posts: 479
Default Training out your dog's Separation Anxiety withoutinadvertentl...

Before I retired, I tried the leave-and-return approach for one of my
dogs. It was an utter failure. Why? Because before I could build up
to a reasonable period of time (for him) before returning, I had to go
to work. No choice. Yet.... It Can Work! But it depends on the
individual dog and how long it takes to build up the trust that the
owner will return.... and whether the owner can get to that stage before
Having to depart. I have known dogs that reached that lovely point in
one or two afternoons/evenings of in and out by owners.

Some alternatives....
1.) Yes, since you mention it, the citron collar can work. In dogs
that don't learn to bark-out the citron cartridge before they decide to
be quiet. GACK!

2.) I don't want to have to turn to prescription drugs, which is what
some vets turn to first. Rescue Remedy, available in most health food
stores, like GNC; place a few drops under the dog's tongue to relieve
anxiety, It's a homeopathic remedy, and It has never worked for me or
for my dogs, but lots of folks swear by it. I have had better results
from herbal tables sold in the pet stores for anxiety... a blend of
herbals and proteins. Another thing that works for me, but didn't for
my one dog I tried it on (nothing much worked for him) is the dietary
supplement Melatonin (vitamin and supplements section of supermarkets,
pharmacies), a very mild sedative that also seems to handle
mild-moderate anxiety in dogs. 3 to 5 mg by mouth. Any of these should
be given 20-30 minutes before you depart. Pick one at a time.

3.) Rather than leaving the dog with a dish of dog food, I have
successfully used a stuffed rubber Kong toy.... The strange looking one
that is shaped like an old-fashioned beehive, stuffed with dry dog food
mixed with peanut butter or cheese spread/squirt cheese, hole sealed
with the spreadable whatever.... and various combinations of
dog-pleasing goodies are possible.... frozen overnight so it takes a
while for the dog to get everything out, and napping between efforts.
The dog ONLy gets this when the owner is going to be out, so it stays
"special". Get the size that's right for your size dog; the black ones
are toughest... radial tire rubber.

4.) Dog Appeasing Pheromone or DAP (one brand is Comfort Zone), which
smells to the dog like a nursing mom-dog.... certainly a scent that
brings back happy memories at the instinct level. We can't smell it.
This comes as a diffuser that plugs into the wall. One cartidge
"treats" an average room for about 30 days. It also comes as a pump
spray in a bottle, and is applied to a piece of fabric and placed near
where the dog will be..... in your case, perhaps on a bandana around the
dog's neck or tied to it's collar. This may not last all day, but does
last for 3-4 hours, which sounds ike what you're aiming at.. There is a
plastic collar version.... which has not been very effective in
relieving anxiety for the two of my dogs I've used it on.... but that
could just be Those dogs. I know dogs that have had excellent results
to the diffuser and the spray on a cloth. So-so with the collar.

5.) The Thundershirt or Anxiety Wrap, which both apply mild to moderate
continuous pressure to nerve endings in the skin of the trunk and calm
the dog. I used this with my dog that nothing else worked for and hit a
homer; after already near total panic from thunder or fireworks, I could
get him bundled up and he'd be asleep at my feet in 2-5 minutes. It
doesn't always work the first time used, and how long to takes to work
is individual. There are dogs it does nothing for.

6.) A tired dog is a good dog, so get up early and take him for a darn
good run or intensive game of fetch before you leave the house.

Each Category above can be used alone or in combination with any or all
of the others.

Note that I have had obedience students who have said that seperation
anxiety reduced or disappeared during basic obedience classes as trust
and respect for the owner built up, along with increased canine
self-confidence. The classes offered in chain pet stores are usually
less than well taught by inexperenced instructors who barely have
trained their own dogs. If that. The staff at your vet clinic knows
which area instructors offer the most effective classes; they see the
results regularly. So do local shelters and rescue groups. Summer
classes are enrolling now, and there will be another cycle in September
or October. If nothing else, a good class is fun and will support your
other efforts. It's great to have a responsive, well behaved 4-footed
roommate.

Jo Wolf
Martinez, Georgia, USA

  #4  
Old May 21st 12, 10:34 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
canisfamiliaris
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Posts: 38
Default Training out your dog's Separation Anxiety without inadvertentlyrewarding him

Dear Chris,

Yes, there are a few contradictions in standard advice on dogs
fretting when owners leave ... like Jo, I have not found rehearsal
leaving and returning exercises very helpful, and I would second much
of what she says, especially the stuffed kong (so your going out is
linked to a treat) and above all, giving the dog a really good work-
out before you go. If the dog likes playing ball, then a fast and
furious ball game can help, though combine this with a walk, to get
the dog warmed up before doing anything that needs a fair amount of
control. Exercise releases natural 'feel-good' chemicals in the dog
(and in humans). And of course a dog that has a good run is more
relaxed, more likely to sleep quickly, and so not bark. Interesting
chew toys also help alleviate boredom if you are out for a while.
Smearing a nylabone type bone with chicken grease can make it very
attractive to a dog.

Good luck.

Alison (not the same one as the other one)
  #5  
Old May 21st 12, 10:57 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
canisfamiliaris
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Posts: 38
Default Training out your dog's Separation Anxiety without inadvertentlyrewarding him

Dear Chris,

You are right, some advice is a bit contradictory ... like Jo, I
haven't found leaving and returning a lot of help. I would
ethusiastically second her kong suggestion, and also suggest a
nylabone type bone, smeared with chicken fat, to alleviate boredom.
Above all, I would second what she says about a good work-out before
you go out. That releases natural feel-good chemicals, and helps the
dog to relax. That is perhaps the most important way you can relax
Axel.

Your comment on Axel being better when he can see you go is
interesting, and maybe it is because when he knows what is happening,
he feels more in control.

There is more on SA here http://www.infopet.co.uk/pages/0130.html#Separation

HTH
  #6  
Old May 22nd 12, 02:57 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
That Randy Guy
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Default Training out your dog's Separation Anxiety without inadvertentlyrewarding him

On 5/20/2012 6:15 PM, Chris Harvey wrote:
My dog Axel has moderate separation anxiety.


Go **** yourself you piece of **** faggot ****er.

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---
 




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