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Ideas on best dog food



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 26th 07, 02:16 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
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Default Ideas on best dog food

I have done a little reading on dog foods and dog nutrition and I am a
little confused. I really don't know if one dog food is better than
another. I want to use the dry food because it is better for the teeth
and doesn't smell, but other than that I am seeing a lot of claims,
do's and don't that don't necessarily make sense. One of them is the
addition of corn. Now, I realize it is not natural for dogs to attack a
corn field, but corn on the other hand has some fiber in it that might
just be good for dogs. Fiber is good for humans. People keep saying
they want smaller dog stools. In humans, though, larger stools mean
more fiber and are perhaps healthier, so I don't see the size of the
stool as being an important factor at least for health.

I see two camps. The meat and more expensive camp and the cheap, it's
all about the same stuff camp. Testimonials don't help because they are
contradictory. Some people say Ol' Roy is the best thing since sliced
bread and others say if you feed it you are going to kill your
dog....give him skin problems, cancer, etc. I'm pretty sure there is no
proof of these ominous health claims, but still I want good food, but
would rather not pay for hype. Any thoughts? I have a 9 wk old border
collie that I'm feeding Purina Puppy Chow to. His first owner was
feeding her that so I've just continued with it, but eventually, I'll
change to something else....but what? dkw

  #3  
Old January 26th 07, 02:42 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
Sharon Too
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Default Ideas on best dog food

I have a 9 wk old border
collie that I'm feeding Purina Puppy Chow to. His first owner was
feeding her that so I've just continued with it, but eventually, I'll
change to something else....but what? dkw


Purina is fine. If it ain't broke.... you know the song! Here's the deal -
at our practice, the only food I've ever heard the doctors discouraging is
Old Roy. LOTS of filler making lots of pooping and we see more skin issues
with it. Otherwise, unless the dog needs prescription food, the doctors
recommend continue feeding what has worked well. Store brand food - they
tend to mention Pruina as it's the most available brand around here. Just
don't change foods often as it can cause tummy upset and lots of gas. And if
you do change, make it a gradual one, slowly adding the new food to the old
until it's finally just the new food after about a week. And stick with dry.


  #4  
Old January 26th 07, 07:25 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
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Default Ideas on best dog food



On Jan 26, 7:42 am, "Sharon Too"
wrote:
I have a 9 wk old border
collie that I'm feeding Purina Puppy Chow to. His first owner was
feeding her that so I've just continued with it, but eventually, I'll
change to something else....but what? dkwPurina is fine. If it ain't broke.... you know the song! Here's the deal -

at our practice, the only food I've ever heard the doctors discouraging is
Old Roy. LOTS of filler making lots of pooping and we see more skin issues
with it. Otherwise, unless the dog needs prescription food, the doctors
recommend continue feeding what has worked well. Store brand food - they
tend to mention Pruina as it's the most available brand around here. Just
don't change foods often as it can cause tummy upset and lots of gas. And if
you do change, make it a gradual one, slowly adding the new food to the old
until it's finally just the new food after about a week. And stick with dry.



Thanks. That makes sense and that is what I'll do. dkw

  #5  
Old January 26th 07, 07:49 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
buglady
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Posts: 863
Default Ideas on best dog food


"diddy" wrote in message
...
"nitrogenous waste" is referring to the increased ammonia production to
maintain the acid balance (which occurs
post-glomerulus), and to liver urea production (which occurs pre-
glomerulus).

The increased amount of ammonia created to moderate acid base causes the
initial scarring. Phosphorous exacerbates the scarring and reduces the
ability of the individual nephron function.

How does phosphorus exacerbate the (renal tubule) scarring? Phosphorus
increases acidity levels which would then
leads to increased ammoniagenesis by increasing acidity within the renal
tubules.

.........Oh good gravy. Exactly what's the date of this old Steve Crane
post? Or do you have the source for this information.


http://ag.ansc.purdue.edu/nielsen/ww...Nutrition.html

...........this is for livestock nutrition

1 cup of corn Corn
Proximates

........Where is this from? What kind of corn - dried uncooked field corn?

-- "Interpreting Pet Food Labels"
http://www.fda.gov/cvm/index/consumer/petlabel.htm

............Page not found

Links from the American College of Veterinary Nutrition:
http://www.acvn.org/WebsiteEvaluation.html

..............404 Website not found

Specifically with regard to regulation and labelling:
http://www.fda.gov/cvm/index/animalfeed/petfoods.htm

............Page not found
http://www.aafco.org/

I don't know where questions 1-3 are on this site, but the inclusion of
grains by all pet food manufacturers is done for ONE reason.

.........It's a cheap source of energy and they can't make dry food without
grain. Period.

buglady
take out the dog before replying


  #6  
Old January 26th 07, 07:57 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
buglady
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Posts: 863
Default Ideas on best dog food


wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to use the dry food because it is better for the teeth

..........Actually it's not, but is a fairly common myth.
Fiber is good for humans.

..........Dogs aren't humans. They're digestive tract is nowhere near as
long as ours. Bowel cancer is hardly ever an issue with dogs, which is
where the fiber for humans is important. Corn isn't used for the fiber, but
as a source of energy - a carb. Dogs don't physiologically require carbs.

so I don't see the size of the stool as being an important factor at least

for health.
.........if it's not digested, it comes out the other end. Do you really
want to be spending money on poop?

You can look at this site to compare dog foods: http://www.doberdogs.com/
Pet food labels: http://www.fda.gov/cvm/petlabel.htm
and http://www.vin.com/VINDBPub/SearchPB...00/PR00173.htm

buglady
take out the dog before replying



  #7  
Old January 26th 07, 08:31 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
Melinda Shore
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Posts: 7,732
Default Ideas on best dog food

In article .net,
buglady wrote:
Dogs don't physiologically require carbs.


!!! Of course they do! They don't rely on carbs for energy
production to the same extent that humans do, but yes, some
carbohydrates are necessary for good dog nutrition. In
fact, canine nutritionists specializing in performance dogs
recommend carb supplements (sports drinks, basically) for
replenishment after a sprinty-type event if there's going to
be another sprinty-type event the following day.
Carbohydrates are necessary as an energy source both in
muscle and in the brain.
--
Melinda Shore - Software longa, hardware brevis -

Prouder than ever to be a member of the reality-based community
  #8  
Old January 27th 07, 12:23 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
buglady
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Posts: 863
Default Ideas on best dog food


"Melinda Shore" wrote in message
...
!!! Of course they do!


Nope, no need for one carb to pass their lips.
*Except for the lactating bitch, there appears to be no dietary requirement
for carbohydrate. Gluconeogenesis from alanine and lactate can supply any
need for glucose.*
Merck Vet Manual, 7th ed. p 1204.

buglady
take out the dog before replying


  #9  
Old January 27th 07, 12:39 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
Melinda Shore
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Posts: 7,732
Default Ideas on best dog food

In article .net,
buglady wrote:
Merck Vet Manual, 7th ed. p 1204.


That edition was published in 1991, and given that it was a
veterinary handbook and not a research journal it wasn't
current even then. That assertion is profoundly wrong when
it comes to performance dogs and it's generally wrong when
it comes to pet dogs.

Do a quickie Google search on the terms

dogs carbohydrates

You'll find stuff published in this century. If you're
interested in finding out more, try

dogs "muscle glycogen"

There are also a number of decent books on dog nutrition and
audio tapes/CDs published by the Alaska Dog Mushers
Association. You don't have to rely on a superannuated
veterinary handbook.
--
Melinda Shore - Software longa, hardware brevis -

Prouder than ever to be a member of the reality-based community
  #10  
Old January 27th 07, 03:38 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.health
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Posts: 50
Default Ideas on best dog food



On Jan 26, 5:39 pm, (Melinda Shore) wrote:
In article .net,

buglady wrote:
Merck Vet Manual, 7th ed. p 1204.That edition was published in 1991, and given that it was a

veterinary handbook and not a research journal it wasn't
current even then. That assertion is profoundly wrong when
it comes to performance dogs and it's generally wrong when
it comes to pet dogs.

Do a quickie Google search on the terms

dogs carbohydrates

You'll find stuff published in this century. If you're
interested in finding out more, try

dogs "muscle glycogen"

There are also a number of decent books on dog nutrition and
audio tapes/CDs published by the Alaska Dog Mushers
Association. You don't have to rely on a superannuated
veterinary handbook.
--
Melinda Shore - Software longa, hardware brevis -

Prouder than ever to be a member of the reality-based community


I'm sure you are correct. While it may not be necessary to eat carbs,
the protein and fat would need to be turned into carbs, namely sugar to
be useful to the cells for energy. At least that's the way it works in
humans and all mammals I would imagine. I think a lot of the
bodybuilders eating their high-protein diets are just wasting their
money by buying expensive protein supplements while the body converts
them to carbs. Much easier and cheaper to eat the carbs in the first
place. Dogs, like people probably have a wide range of healthy mix for
carbs, protein and fat, provided they don't overeat.

A hundred years ago, at least in this country, if you told somebody you
were vegetarian, they would swear you would just die from lack of meat,
too. That was wrong for people, and it seems to be wrong for dogs too.
Many of the opinions do not appear to be based on science for dogs any
more than they are for humans. I don't know why I thought it would be
easier finding an ideal diet for my dog. I'll just wing it, probably
get the high corn, lower meat stuff, and see how it goes. If my dog
becomes lethargic, loses weight, or gets a skin problem, heck, I can
always switch. I really don't want to spend any more money than I need
to on my dog.

I had to laugh to myself when the vet recommended a lot of tests and
Science Diet for my pet, since I don't go to the doctor myself and eat
a lot of low-priced (but nutritious food) too. I'll stick with the
heartworm and general innoculations for parvo, etc. and forget the
exams, fecal test and expensive food for now. I don't need to pay $100
for the vet to tell me my dog is healthy. dkw

 




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