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rec.pets.dogs: Bulldogs Breed-FAQ
Posting-frequency: 30 days
Last-modified: 05 Jun 1995
This is a regularly posted faq and appears every thirty days in
rec.pets.dogs and news.answers. The latest version of this file is
a hypertext document available via the Web at
The most recently posted ASCII version of this file is available via
anonymous ftp to rtfm.mit.edu in the directory
It is also available via email: check the weekly posting Cindy Tittle
Moore ) puts out entitled "Complete List of
rec.pets.dogs FAQs" for details.
The Bulldog FAQ is also available in hypertext (HTML) format at
http://www.io.com/user/wilf/bulldog_l/faq.html. Check out Craig
Foltz's Bully Archive at http://sculptor.as.arizona.edu/foltz/bullys/
for lots of Bulldog GIFs and JPEGs. Craig also maintains a Bulldog
Homepage (at http://sculptor.as.arizona.edu/foltz/bulldogs/) with
pointers to lots of good Bulldog information.
[ A NOTE TO THE HUMOR IMPAIRED. BULLDOGS ARE CLOWNS. HAVING A *VERY SERIOUS*
FAQ WOULD BE COUNTER TO STANDARD ACCEPTABLE LOGIC. ]
TABLE OF CONTENTS
3. Are Bulldogs for you ?
4. Good books
6. Mailing List
7. A Bulldog As Pet and Companion
8. Bulldogs and Shameless Advertising
10. Breed Description
11. Health Issues
12. Frequently Asked Questions
13. Bulldog Rescue Organizations
1. Wilf LeBlanc )
2. Craig Foltz )
3. Aaron Dial )
4. Jack Segall )
5. Catherine Quinn )
6. Cindy Tittle Moore
Direct all comments/ criticisms to wilf please.
The Bulldog is a beautiful dog (see Q11, Q12) which was originally
bred for Bullbaiting, and although the dog may look strange to people
with no class and culture, one must keep in mind that virtually all of
its physical traits were tailored for Bullbaiting.
Originally, Bulldogs were most likely a cross between a Pug (which was
imported from China by the Portuguese in the mid to late 16th
century), and the progeny of the Alaunt/Mastiff crosses. These dogs
were no doubt quite a bit different than current day Bulldogs...
Todays bulldogs are not dog aggressive, or people aggressive, in
general. They are about as people/dog aggressive as Golden Retrievers.
They are not Pit Bulls, and although they look mean, they are not (at
Bullbaiting (see Q6) originated in 1209 and ran out of favor (i.e.
became illegal) a little before rec.pets.dogs was created, (1835).
3. ARE BULLDOGS FOR YOU?
o Do you want a dog that can run for miles and miles and miles?
If so, don't get a Bulldog. (Bulldogs don't jog. They waddle).
However, they should go on long walks regularly like any other dogs.
(See Q15). Bulldogs are not (NOT!) aggressive dogs, they are not
'performance' dogs, they are above all else 'characters' and
o Do you want a very obedient dog who will salute on command?
If so, don't get a Bulldog. Bulldogs aren't stupid, but generally
pretty stubborn and thus harder to train.
Theorem: Bulldogs aren't stupid.
Proof 1: Smart dogs learn what "cookie" means really fast.
Bulldogs learn what "cookie" means really fast.
Proof 2: At least two out of the six FAQ Makers have
PhDs, so their dogs must be smart, right ?
o If you live in a hot climate, your Bulldog might need special care
in the summer. They tend to overheat in the hot weather (sometimes)
and care should be given (i.e., shorter walks or walks at night).
o Bulldogs are not long-lived dogs; 8 to 10 years is common.
o There are lots of other breeds which may interest you. Please
consult the breed FAQs at ftp://rtfm.mit.edu (in
/pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq), or the hypertext site at
/top.html. Wilf also maintains a set of links to various dog
related sites at http://www.io.com/user/wilf/dogs/doggy_info.html.
4. GOOD BOOKS:
. The Book of the Bulldog,
Joan McDonald Brearly 1985, TFH Publications, Inc, Ltd. 211
West Silvania Avenue, Neptune City, NJ 07753 ISBN 0-86622-027-5
. The New Bulldog,
Colonel Bailey Hanes MacMillan Pub Co (Howell Book House) ISBN
5. MAGAZINES AND CLUBS
. Bulldog Club of America
Secretary, Bulldog Club of America,
450 Bully Hill Drive, King George,
The club was founded in 1890 and had been in continuous
existence ever since. There are several thousand members now.
For only $15 a year membership a person gets a wonderful
quarterly publication full of photos and useful information.
Sourmug, #1 Windy Ridge
Phone: 612 454 9510
Fax: 612 454 9460
Sourmug usually has some pretty good articles and quite a few
6. MAILING LIST
We have a Bulldog and Bulldog cross (Bullmastiff, Bull Terrier,
AmStaff, StaffBull, etc etc) mailing list. To subscribe, send a
message to with "subscribe bulldogx-l
your-email-address" in the body of the message (no quotes). (If you
don't receive a reply, send a message to me ).
7. A BULLDOG AS PET AND COMPANION
After the outlawing of Bullbaiting (1835), the Bulldog breed would
have died out if not for the people who liked them for their more
endearing properties. Namely, their abundant good nature which makes
them excellent pets.
8. BULLDOGS AND SHAMELESS ADVERTISING
Some products endorsed by Bulldogs
1. Bulldog Brand Steel Wool
2. Mack Trucks
In case your in the market for a MACK truck, and have
wondered who the Bulldog used in their print advertizing is,
wonder no more. His name is Thunder, and he belongs to a
member of the Detroit Bulldog Club. He was selected by the Ad
agency from a group of eight or ten bulldogs to represent the
"massive" image that Mack wants to present. At 78 pounds, he
is type cast for this role.
3. Kibbles 'n Bits
(Pitched by Ike the Bulldog. Apparently, Ike doesn't eat the
stuff, because its waxed to keep the Kibble moist and the
4. Bulldog Canadian Lager Beer
Old Canada Brewing Company, Canada
Imported by Barton Beers, LTD, Chicago, IL 60603
5. Red Dog Beer
A Molson product (Canada). The commercials are great !
Institutions with the Bulldog as mascot:
1. University of Geogia
2. Yale University
3. Butler University, Indianapolis, IN
We'll sing the Butler War Song
We'll give the fighting cry
We'll fight the Butler battles
Bulldogs ever do or die
And in the glow of the vict'ry firelight
Hist'ry can not deny
To add a page or two
For the Butler fighting crew
Beneath the Hoosier sky!
4. Fresno State University
5. University of Minnesota - Duluth (UMD)
6. United States Marine Corps
Bulldogs are one of the most expensive dogs. In general, they are hard
to breed and typically have to be born via Caesarean section (see
Q13). Furthermore they are often lethargic breeders, needing so much
human assistance that the conjugal event can often approximate a
`menage a cinq.' Artificial insemination is often called for. This
brings us to an oft-pondered question: "Could the breed even exist
without the intervention of technology?" The answer to this has has
occupied some of the best minds of the day for a microsecond or two.
The answer is actually unimportant; for a dog so wonderful, no price
is too much to pay. ["Whew, I'd better fill my pockets with jelly
`cause I'm about to become toast!"]
Official Breed Standard [AKC]
Size, Proportion, Symmetry
Neck, Topline, Body
Coat and Skin
Color of Coat
Scale of Points
General Appearance-- The perfect Bulldog must be of medium size and
smooth coat; with heavy, thickset, low-swung body, massive short-faced
head, wide shoulders and sturdy limbs. The general appearance and
attitude should suggest great stability, vigor and strength. The
disposition should be equitable and kind, resolute and courageous (not
vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified.
These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and
Size, Proportion, Symmetry-- Size-- The size for mature dogs is about
50 pounds; for mature bitches about 40 pounds. Proportion-- The
circumference of the skull in front of the ears should measure at
least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Symmetry-- The "points"
should be well distributed and bear good relation one to the other, no
feature being in such prominence from either excess or lack of quality
that the animal appears deformed or ill-proportioned. Influence of
Sex-- In comparison of specimens of different sex, due allowance
should be made in favor of the bitches, which do not bear the
characteristics of the breed to the same degree of perfection and
grandeur as do the dogs.
Head-- Eyes and eyelids-- The eyes, seen from the front, should be
situated low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible, and
their corners should be in a straight line at right angles with the
stop. Thet should be quite in front of the head, as wide apart as
possible, provided their outer corners are within the outline of the
cheeks when viewed from the front. They should be quite round in form,
of moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging and in color should be
very dark. The lids should cover the white of the eyeball, when the
dog is looking directly forward, and the lid should show no "haw".
Ears-- The ears should be set high in the head, the front inner edge
of each ear joining the outline of the skull at the top back corner of
skull, so as to place them as wide apart, and as high, and as far from
the eyes as possible. In size they should be small and thin. The shape
termed "rose-ear" is the most desireable. The rose ear folds inward at
its back lower edge, the upper front edge curving over, outward and
backward, showing part of the inside of the burr. (The ears should not
be carried erect or prick-eared or buttoned and should never be
cropped). Skull-- The skull should be very large, and in
circumference, in front of the ears, should measure at least the
height of the dog at the shoulders. Viewed from the front, it should
appear very high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the
skull, and also very broad and square. Viewed at the side, the head
should appear very high, and very short from the point of the nose to
occiput. The forehead should be flat (not rounded or domed), neither
too prominent not overhanging the face. Cheeks-- The cheeks should be
well-rounded, protrouding sideways and outward beyond the eyes. Stop--
The temples or frontal bones should be very well defined, broad,
square and high, causing a hollow or grove between the eyes. This
indentation, or stop, should be both broad and deep and extend up the
middle of the forehead, dividing the head vertically, being traceable
to the top of the skull. Face and muzzle-- The face, measured from the
front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose, should be extremely
short, the muzzle being very short, broad, turned upward and very deep
from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. Nose-- The nose
should be large, broad and black, its tip set back deeply between the
eyes. The distance from bottom of stop, between the eyes, to the tip
of the nose should be as short as possible and not exceed the length
from the tip of nose to the edge of underlip. The nostrils should be
wide, large and black, with a well-defined line between them. Any nose
other than black is objectionable and a brown or liver-colored nose
shall disqualify. Lips-- The chops or "flews" should be thick, broad,
pendant and very deep, completely overhanging the lower jaw at each
side. They join the underlip in front and almost or quite cover the
teeth, which should be scarcely noticeable when the mouth is closed.
Jaws-- The jaws should be massive, very broad, square and
"undershot", the lower jaw projecting considerably in front of the
upper jaw and turning up. Teeth-- The teeth should be large and
strong, with the canine teeth or tusks wide apart, and the six small
teeth in front, between the canines, in an even, level row.
Neck, Topline, Body-- Neck-- The neck should be short, very thick,
deep and strong and well arched at the back. Topline-- There should be
a slight fall in the back, close behind the shoulders (its lowest
part), whence the spine should rise to the loins (the top of which
should be higher than the top of the shoulders), thence curving again
more suddenly to the tail, forming an arch (a very distinctive feature
of the breed), termed "roach back" or, more correctly, "wheel back".
Body-- The brisket and body should be very capacious, with full
sides, well rounded ribs and very deep from the shoulders down to its
lowest part, where it joins the chest. It should be well-let-down
bewteen the shoulders and forelegs, giving the dog a broad, low, short
legged appearance. Chest-- The chest should be very broad, deep and
full. Underline-- The body should be well-ribbed-up behind with the
belly tucked up and not rotund. Back and Loin-- The back should be
short and strong, very broad at the shoulders and comparitively narrow
at the loins. Tail-- The tail may be either straight or "screwed" (but
never curved or curly), and in any case must be short, hung low, with
decided downward carriage, thick root and fine tip. If straight, the
tail should be cylindrical and of uniform taper. If "screwed", the
bends or kinks should be well-defined, and they may be abrupt and even
knotty, but no portion of the member should be elevated above the base
Forequarters-- Shoulders-- Should be muscular, very heavy, widespread
and slanting outward, giving stability and great power. Forelegs-- The
forelegs should be short, very stout, straight and muscular, set wide
apart, with well-developed calves, presenting a bowed outline, but the
bones of the legs should not be curved or bandy, nor the feet brought
too close together. Elbows-- The elbows should be low and stand well
out and loose from the body. Feet The feet should be moderate in size,
compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well-split-up, with high nuckles
and very short stubby nails. The front feet may be straight or
Hindquarters-- Legs--Hind legs should be strong and muscular and
longer than forelegs, so as to elevate loins above shoulders. Hocks
should be slightly bent and well-let-down, so as to give length and
strength from loins to hock. Lower leg should be short, straight and
strong, with stifles turned slightly outward and away from the body.
Hocks are thereby made to approach each other, and the hind feet to
turn outward. Feet-- Should be moderate in size, compact and firmly
set. Toes compact, well-split-up, with high nuckles and short stubby
nails. Hind feet should be pointed well-outward.
Coat and Skin-- Coat-- Should be straight, short, flat, close, of fine
texture, smooth and glossy. (No fringe, feather or curl). Skin-- The
skin should be soft and loose, especially at the head, neck and
shoulders. Wrinkles and dewlap-- The head and face should be covered
with heavy wrinkles, and at the throat, from jaw to chest, there
should be two loose pendulous folds, forming the dewlap.
Color of Coat-- The color of coat should be uniform, pure of its kind
and brilliant. The various colors found in the breed are to be
preferred in the following order: 1.) red brindle; 2.) all other
brindles; 3.) solid white; 4.) solid red, fawn or fallow; 5.) piebald;
6.) inferior qualities of all the foregoing.
Note: A perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or defective
solid color. Solid black is very undesireable, but not so
objectionable if occuring to a moderate degree in piebald patches. The
brindles to be perfect should have a fine, even and equal distribution
of the composite colors. In brindles and solid colors a small white
patch on the chest is not considered detrimental. In piebalds the
color patches should be well-defined, of pure color and symmetrically
Gait-- The style and carriage are peculiar, his gait being a
loose-jointed, shuffling, sidewise motion, giving the characteristic
"roll". The action must be, however, be unrestrained, free and
Temperment-- The disposition should be equable and kind, resolute and
courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific
and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the
expression and behavior.
Scale of Points
Proportion and symmetry...................5
Color of coat.............................4 22
Eyes and eyelids..........................3
BODY, LEGS, ETC
Forelegs and elbows.......................4
DISQUALIFICATION-- A brown or liver-colored nose.
11. HEALTH ISSUES
Elbow Dysplasia, and Patellar Dysplasia should be screened for before
breeding. Very few Bulldogs have ever been OFA rated (for hip
displasia) and a good Bulldog hip is generally poorly rated by OFA.
Only a tiny tiny number of Bulldogs have ever been OFA rated, and none
have been considered excellent.
Cherry eye (or "haw"), entropian and extropian, is common in Bulldogs
and surgery may be required to fix the problem. Breeding stock should
be screened. Cherry Eye is a swelling of a gland in the inner eye lid.
This is usually treated by cutting the gland out depending on how
often the swelling occurs. Entropian/extropian is the folding in or
out of the eye lids, which bring the eyelashes in contact with the eye
lense. This causes scratching, ulcers and eventually blindness. It is
surgically corrected by putting a "tuck" (ask someone who sews) in the
offending eye lid. Requires a delicate touch and experience not to put
too much tuck and distort the look of the eye.
Other popular maladies include demodectic skin mites ("mange") which
appears to have a genetic basis. Births via C-section are typically
required as mentioned above (see Q13).
Skin allergies or "rashes" are relatively common as well.
Yes, Bulldogs can be expensive dogs. If you decide to opt for a
Bulldog, ensure you purchase one from a reputable breeder with a
history of producing healthy dogs. Saving $100 to $500 and obtaining a
poor quality dog will most likely cost you ALOT more money in the long
And no, not all Bulldogs have all these health problem.
12. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q1. Are Bulldogs really the greatest dogs in the whole wide world?
A1. Yes, unquestionably.
Q2. Do Bulldogs wear those goofy Moose Antlers or are they above that?
A2. Anything is OK _except_ moose antlers. Mooses are sacrosanct.
Tutus, sunglasses, leather jackets, Georgia Bulldog T-shirts, Tuxedos,
Mack Truck T-shirts, etc., etc.,... are all OK.
Q3. Why are Bulldogs used so often as mascots?
A3. See Q1 above.
Q4. What is the difference between English (or British) Bulldogs and
Bulldogs? What about the French Bulldog ?? What's this I hear about
the 'Olde English Bulldogge' ?
A4. There is no such thing as an English or British Bulldog. Members
of the breed are simply called Bulldogs, as in _The_ Bulldog.
On the French bulldog (by Jack Segall):
The French Bulldog, incidentally, derived from minature or dwarf
Bulldogs sent to France by the English who did not want them...this in
the late 1800's... The genes for mininature still exist in the Bulldog
line, and I own one who is a perfectly proportioned 30 pound dog.
Before the late '50's, Bulldogs were shown at AKC shows in Under and
Over 40 pound weight classes, so small dogs have been around until
On the 'Olde English Bulldogge'
(by Aaron Dial)
Developed in the 1970s, the Olde English Bulldogge is a recreation of
the 18th-century bulldog. The breed's creator, David Leavitt, was
heavily involved with the AKC show-type Bulldog at the time,
thoroughly loving the bulldog nature, but not so enamored with their
breathing and breeding problems. Armed with considerable knowledge of
bulldog history and canine genetics, Leavitt used a linebreeding
scheme involving the present-day Bulldog, the Bullmastiff, the
American Pit Bull Terrier, and American Bulldogs. Though the "Oldie's"
bloodlines are strongly steeped in combat stock, Leavitt deemed
aggressiveness a fault. He sought instead to recreate the original
bulldog's tenacity, fierce appearance, power, and athleticism, but in
the guise of an over-all friendly fellow. Considered intelligent,
clownish, and loyal, the Olde English Bulldogges are quickly going
"over the top," and are increasingly present at rare breed shows all
over the North America. Dogs should weigh at least 60 lbs. and stand
at least 19" at the withers. Bitches should weigh at least 50 lbs and
stand 17" tall. The moderately wrinkled head is large in proportion to
the body with the skull deeply sunken between the eyes, extending up
the forehead. The muzzle is short (though not as short as the AKC
Bulldog) and broad. The coat is short, close, and medium fine.
Acceptable colors are the brindles (red, grey, or black), solid white,
fawn, red, or black.
For more information, or breeder referrals, on the Olde English
Bulldogges, contact Standing Stones Olde English Bulldogges in the US
at (203) 379-0378.
Q5. OK, OK, then what is the difference between the American Bulldog
and the Bulldog?
A5. Well, (and maybe a AB aficianado can help me here), ABs were bred
for Big Game Hunting and they use a little more force to bring their
(smaller) prey down. (See also Q6 below).
[From Aaron Dial, with a little editing by wilf]:
The AB (indigenous to the sourthern US) was bred as a farm guardian to
protect livestock. It resembles the basic bulldog description (wide
chest, big head, etc.) but a good working AB should weigh 90 lbs
(according to the boar hunters, ABs much more than 100 lbs are too
slow), and its muzzle should be a bit longer than the Bulldog's for
hot-weather work. Its bite should be undershot to maintain a hold, as
fiercer prey can do considerable damage given the opportunity. A
scissor bite would not be suitable. An athletic AB is quite popular
for boar hunting, a sport that has taken the lives of many good dogs.
However, a good AB is something to behold in this bloody endeavor,
which is why they are emerging as the dog of choice for the task.
There is great argument within the fancy just now as to what direction
the breed should take, i.e. athleticism versus bigger is better and
biggest is best. [All hunting flames cheerfully forwarded to
rec.hunting]. [Again, the American Bulldog is more of a 'performance'
dog, whereas the Bulldog is more of a couch potato].
Q6. How did those relatively small Bulldogs of bygone days bring down
Bulls. Were Bulls smaller back then or were Bulldogs bigger?
A6. Some people think Bulldogs were bigger (95 lb range) and some
think they were about the same size as today's variety. However,
Bulldogs were more like a flea on a bull's nose than a massive dog
which would fight with the bulls. They would grab onto the bull's nose
and hold on until the bull was so tired it couldn't fight anymore. It
must be remembered that although Bulldogs may look strange to some,
everything about them (their short stature to avoid being `hooked' by
the bull, their short snout to allow them to breathe while holding on
to the bull, etc.) was bred for bullbaiting. The dogs didn't always
win. The bull was also restrained by a tether (with a rope about its
neck, approximately 4 or 5 yards long).
Q6.1 Why are their faces all wrinkly?
A6.1 So the bull's blood would flow down the Bulldog's face, under its
chin and down, rather than into the dog's eyes. Their noses are tipped
back so they can still breath while keeping ahold of their mouthful.
Doesn't conjure up a pretty mental picture, does it?
Q6.2 Why do they have such a short jaw?
A6.2 Easier to hold on, and not let go.
Q6.3 Why is all their weight near their head?
A6.3 So when the Bull shakes it would be less likely that the dog's
back would be broken. In physical terms, this moves the center of
gravity nearer the axis of rotation in order to minimize the angular
moment of inertia...
Q6.4 I heard that they have jaws that lock, is this true?
A6.4 No. They are just very strong, and stubborn (tenacious), and if
they don't want to let go, they won't.
Q6.5 Were only Bulldogs used for this sport?
A6.5 No, originally the forerunners to the Bulldog were used along
with Mastiffs and Bull Terriers. Bull Terriers and Mastiffs were
considered too large and slow in the ring.
Q6.6 Were animals other than Bulls `baited?'
A6.6 Yes. Bears, badgers, and even monkeys were occasionally the
first-round draft choices of the blood sport promoters.
Q6.7 This is disgusting. This was sport?
A6.7 Yes and yes. But remember that the fighting "rings" were the
forerunners of the show "rings". Not that this makes it any better.
[In fact, it kinda smacks of kickboxing, a sport not without promoters
Q6.8 So I bet a Bulldog would be a good hunter, no ?
A6.8 HAHAAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHHAHAHAAHAHAA !!!!!! Sure, they are quite
capable at hunting dust bunnies, but that's about it.
Q7. Wow, they must be mean little dogs!
A7. No. Most, if not all, the fighting spirit has been bred out. They
are still pretty stubborn in general, but very loveable. (To quote the
Book of the Bulldog, "They won't start very many fights, but they may
finish a few"). Generally, they have a lot of patience, and they are
very tough. This is why they are good with kids; they can take reams
of abuse. They tend to be meatheads, and might harm a child by
accident, so supervision is still recommended. They even have a
reputation of being particularly good with cats [Craig: My Bulldog pup
has established a particularly good relationship with my marmalade
tabby Duncan, the King Kong of the feline world. Wilf: Yeah, my
bulldog *loves* my cat and my cat (an old grumpy 11 year old) even
likes my bulldog!!]
Q8. Are Bulldogs the same as "Pit Bulls" ?
A8. No. Although it is often unclear what people mean when they say
"Pit Bull". They could mean American Pit Bull Terrier, or just a dog
which was originally bred for pit fighting (and has bulldog-X blood)
or most likely they really don't know what they are talking about. The
press usually defines "Pit Bull" as a dog that bites.
Terriers and Bulldogs were crossed to yield the Bull and Terrier which
then led to the Bull Terrier and the so-called "Pit Bull". (Well, even
this is debatable. Some people believe there is no Terrier in the
American Pit Bull Terrier. Some people believe that the Pit Bull is
closer in looks and character to the original Bull baiting dog. The
general feeling of most Bulldog lovers is a cheery "who cares" ?)
Bulldogs were used for pit fighting (historically) but any aggressive
nature (or gameness) has been (in general) bred out. They are still
stubborn, singleminded and rather impervious to pain.
Bulldogs, in general, are much less hyper than, say, an AmStaff or a
American Pitbull Terrier, shorter, and stockier. Again, Bulldogs are
not performance dogs, they are *clowns*. And no, not all "Pit Bull"
type dogs eat people just for fun. Pit Bulls were bred for fighting
other dogs, not for eating people. A fighting dog cannot be aggressive
to humans, since handlers must break up the fight. In other words, a
well bred Pit Bull is not aggressive to humans (and as such, a Pit
Bull doesn't even make a great guard dog). However, as with any dog
(which has the size and strength to do damage), a combination of poor
genetics, poor breeding, bad owners, and a little bad luck can lead to
a problem dog. (And of course, media hype plays a roll in this as
well). So make sure you do your research and find a good breeder with
a good history of producing good dogs !!
Q9. Will a Bulldog make a good guard dog?
A9. No. They *like* people. Like most dogs, one might protect you if
you were in trouble, but it is unlikely. However, most people are
terrified of Bulldogs, so this is (sometimes) protection enough. [One
can use this as a convenient barometer of good taste -- those
terrified by Bulldogs are Philistines] Whether or not *any* dog should
be used for guarding is good flamebait.
Q10. Are they barkers?
A10. No, they are very quiet in general. They do snore, belch and can
be flatulent, so they tend to be noisy in other ways. Some people
think this is comforting. Well, at least two people do because my SO
does and I do. The contented snore of the Bulldog by my bed is the
best lullaby that I can imagine.
Q11. Why are they soooooooo beeeee-aaaaaa-uuuuuutiful?
A11. Another imponderable...no one is sure why they are so stunning,
they just are.
Q12. What do I do if I do all my research, buy a Bulldog and people
persist in saying that "he/she is so U-G-L-Y he is cute" moronic
phrase about my lovely dog?
A12. Inform me. I will deal with them ) or utter some sage
and witty repartee like "So's your momma!".
Q13. Why are they often born by Caesarean section?
A13. As a breed, they have large heads and small hips and therefore
small birth canals. Well, that's the commonly held belief which is
probably just a myth.
Here are some other reasons for C-sections:
Bulldog Bitches, due to their high tolerance for pain, often ignore
nature's signals to "Push" the puppies out. Any dog can take a long
time to deliver an entire litter of puppies. An hour or more between
pups is not unusual, and if the litter is large, the delivery time can
last 8 or more hours. Bulldogs will just forget it, and go to sleep.
Secondly, Bulldogs have a higher than normal record of producing
"Anasarca" puppies. These are fetuses that do not drain fluid in a
normal manner, and end up as water-filled puppies, often weighing two
to three times what a normal pup weighs. They are so large that they
will not fit through the pelvic opening in the birth canal. If this is
one of the first puppies in line to be delivered, none behind it will
get out. Until the availablility of ultra sound, there was no way of
predicting if the bitch had one of these in-side her. Even with
ultrasound, it is difficult. A number of years ago, U of Michigan
conducted a study trying to determine what caused this problem (it
also happens with human babies). Ultra sound was used to try to
determine when the water problem developed during the gestation
period. No predictable patterns were discerned. The problem seemed to
be related to a zero thyroid function in the fetus. Generally, these
pups do not live more than a few minutes, even born through
So the C-Section is routinely used to avoid having to do one on an
emergency basis, whether due to an Anasarca pup, or just to make sure
that all have been delivered naturally... how do you know how many are
there? The high value of a bulldog puppy makes it cost effective to do
the C-section rather than risk loosing even one puppy.
Anasarca may be hereditary, but after several years of study supported
by the Morris Animal Foundation, so familial connects were found.
Repeat breedings of the same sire and dam did not produce Anasarca
Here are some arguments against C-sections:
Not accepting the puppies is the down side of C-sections. The mothers
internal hormones are not yet in action, and she doesn't know that she
has had puppies. Sometimes there may be near disasters in the first 48
hours. A hormone shot can be given that brings the milk in and starts
the maternal instinct going. The length of time between birth and
acceptance depends on when, in the gestation period the C-section was
As you can see, discussing whether or not it is right or wrong to
breed dogs which are often born in this manner is good flame bait.
Q14. What's this Sourmug stuff all about?
A14. Well, Sourmug is just the name that is sometimes used to explain
the look on a Bulldogs face. The enlightened Bulldog owner prefers to
think of it as a look of contentment.
Q15. Why are they always fat?
A15. They shouldn't be. As is the case with any dog, regular exercise
and a proper diet will control any weight problems in Bulldogs.
However, they are *very* solid dogs. Their build is very wide and not
very tall. So even though they might look fat, they are just stocky.
(Also, like any dog, you should be able to feel the ribs easily, but
not able to see the ribs). Excess weight puts undue strain on the
heart and joints.
Remember, the AKC breed standard says: "The general appearance should
suggest great stability, vigor and strength".
However, the AKC breed standard also says: "the size for mature dogs
is about 50 pounds; for mature bitches about 40 pounds", and this is
Q16. Do they shed alot?
A16. Well, they do have a short coat but they are *not* a non-
Q17. Why are Bulldog aficianados so wierd?
A17. I dunno; it must be in our genes...
Q18. How come their tails are so short, are they cropped?
A18. No. They are not cropped, they just have short tails. The tails
come in essentially two varieties: spiked or screwed [Craig: I could
come up with a very off-color remark here if given a minute or so, but
given the readership of rpd, it may not be much appreciated].
Following by Jack Segall:
The tail can be almost any size and shape, as long as all of it is
stays below the base of tail. In breeding, a screw tail will usually
be dominant, that is, both parents must have straight tails to get
one. In judging a bulldog, the tail is worth about 2% of the score,
and this includes not only its shape, but its placement on the back.
Its base should be low on the down side of the rump curvature. Most
tails do not need any special care. Occasionally, the root of a
screw tail will be buried deep inside the dog - a finger inserted next
to these tails will go in to about the first knuckle joint. These
tails can become infected, particularly if they get wet from
swimming or bathing in water that covers the dog. Such an infected
tail usually has a strong odor, and may be red and sore to the
touch. You may notice the dog scooting around on its rear trying to
scratch this area. (Impossible for a bulldog to do!)
Treating the infection requires daily packing of an antiseptic powder
deep into the tail cavity. This may take several weeks to be
effective. In rare cases, the infection may not be curable, and the
tail has to be removed. This is not a simple procedure, although it
would appear to be. The removal must be done at the base of the tail,
which is attached to the spine. As this area in already infected, the
risk of transferring this into the spinal column is great. After
surgery, the same sort of antiseptic packing is done. Over the years,
out of about 40 dogs that we have owned, 4 or 5 have had these deep
set tails, three have become infected, and one of these required
Q19. Did they always have such big heads and were built so low to the
A19. No. Very likely not. But the breed standard says large head and
low to the ground. So bigger is better and lower is better. This too
is good flame bait.
Q20. What is a "Rose Ear" ??
A20. Following by Jack Segall:
The ears are supposed to have a "Rose" shape, and to help the
cartilige form into this pattern, the ears are [sometimes] glued into
the proper shape. We use a surgical glue, for colostomy bags, made by
Duo Adhesive. If you do not know what a Rose Ear is supposed to look
like, have someone who does know look at the dog. If the ears are
already rosed, there is no need to glue them. If the ears kind of hang
like a hound dog, called a button ear in bulldogs, then they should be
shaped. Five months is about the limit on doing this. If you figure
out what the ear should look like, glue all parts that fold together
touching another part of the ear to hold the ear in the proper shape.
The glue will stay on for a week or so, and can be rubbed off like
rubber cement Make sure that it is SURGICAL adhesive, not the stuff
used for false eyelashes. Our local drug store has to order the stuff
for us, which usually takes a day.
Q21. What special grooming is required ?
A21. Not much, really.
For a Bulldog of light coloring, sometimes tear stains might develop
in the folds of the skin on the face. First, the source of the tearing
should be determined. Some is normal, but an "entropian", where the
eye lid has turned inward, and eyelashes are rubbing the eyeball will
cause excessive tears. This will also cause eye ulcers and loss of
sight. The surgical correction is minor, if this is what is happening.
As the dog's head grows, this condition may re-occur, particularly if
the face is heavily wrinkled. Cleaning the area with peroxide should
help ward of any infection (which rarely occurs anyway), and a little
DESITIN baby ointment will act as barrier between the tears and fur to
prevent staining. USE VERY LITTLE, as it can rub off on to the
furniture and clothing and is in and of itself a "stain maker".
Putting a little vaseline on your Bulldogs nose from time to time is
also a good idea. Sometimes there noses get dry, and putting a little
vaseline (or even some vitamin E oil) on it every day or so will help
keep it moist.
Q22. What is "the mange" ?
A22. Mange is something that almost all dogs carry in their blood
system. It usually expresses itself early in life, sometimes
associated with stress. It is not contagious, and goes away if treated
early before the lesions cover large portions of the body. Usually
dogs that have it, only show signs once.
Mange can be lethal, if you think your Bulldog has mange, TAKE IT TO
For relief, dogs can be dipped in a solution of Mitaban. Your vet can
handle the treatments or you can do it yourself.
They will usually lose all their hair in the infected parts, although
it doesn't take too long for the hair to grow back. If more than 50%
of the dog is infected it can be fatal, so early diagnosis and
treatment is important.
Q23. What is this I hear about lemons ?
A23. Sometimes in the heat your Bulldog might overheat, especially
during exercise. Squirting lemon juice will tend to cut the "slime"
and your dog will be able to breath easier.
13. BULLDOG RESCUE ORGANIZATIONS
DIVISION II, IN,IL,KY,MI,OH,WV,WI, Sharon Zakar, 513-696-2657
DIVISION III, AZ,CA,HI,NV, Lynda Pelovsky, 510-483-8433
DIVISION V, AK,ID,MT,OR,WA, Kristine Metzger, 503-726-1007
South West Oregon Bulldog Club
AZ, Lynn Tunis, 602-888-0675
AR, Hot Springs, Garland County, Russellville, Arkadelphia,
Searcy, Fort Smith, Sharon L. Britton, 501-525-4332
B.C., Bonnie Wasnock, Home 604-534-6856, Work 800-663-1425
CA, DIVISION III, Lynda Pelovsky, 510-483-8433
CA, Bulldog Club of Greater San Diego
Betty Fisher, 619-588-6491
Abby Zubov, 619-441-0802
Marcie Dobkin, 619-748-8848
CA, Lake Elsinore, Riverside, San Bernadino, San Diego, Orange &
L.A. Conuties, Nancy Harrison, 909-928-1440
Carolyn Whiteside, 909-674-0579
CA, Mother Lode Bulldog Club of Sacramento
Patti Rungo, 916-966-4012
Bridgette Higginbotham, 916-273-9123
Ann McIntosh, 916-966-3388
Ann Chiorino, 916-663-2892
Mary Brunk, 916-933-5724
CA, Northern CA, Bulldog Club of Northern California
Pat Ropp, 408-356-0039
Bob & Betty Hatton, 415-323-0980
CA, Pacific Coast Bulldog Club
Fran Crumely, 714-532-2113
CO, Colorado Springs, Rita Morrou, 719-578-9427
CO, Denver, 100 mile radius, Bulldog Club of Denver
Sandy Coffman, 303-979-6460
CT, Billy & Karen White, 203-269-9030, Work 203-562-4107
CT, Barbara Manigini, 203-281-1409
FL, Diane Albers, 407-322-8980
FL, Tampa Bay Bulldog Club, Jim Lovett, 813-685-7667
FL, Steward L. Wagner, 813-355-5705, Work 813-746-4999, ext.333
FL, Sun Coast Bulldog Fanciers Network, Larry Fagan, 813-921-3320
HI, Tina Sugimoto, 808-826-9673
IA, Bulldog Club of Iowa, Linda Shelburg, 515-225-8743
IA, northwest, Barry J. Meyer, 712-732-4079
IL, Chicago Bulldog Club, Judy Johannsen, 309-764-0243
Janet Hospodar, 708-683-2553
Kathy Bergstrom, 815-389-2282
IL, Illiana Bulldog Club, Maura Teresko, 616-426-3930
IN,IL,KY,MI,OH,WV,WI, BCA, Division II
Phillip Douglas, 317-896-9012
IN, Bulldog Club of Indiana, Teresa Gabbard, 317-539-5289
KS, Greater Kansas City & St. Joseph, MO
Heart of America Bulldog Club, Pat Sullivan, 913-829-2305
Heart of America Bulldog Club, Beverly Larrick, 913-829-3737
KS, Chelsea Brown, 316-343-6067
KY, Kentuckiana Bulldog Club, Sheila Lutring, 812-634-1656
MA, New England, Kathy Bernardi, 508-386-5541
MA, New England, Diane Condon 508-869-2981
MA, New England, Part Garrity 508-842-8848
MA, eastern MA to Worchester & CT, Dona Marcham, 617-335-2809
MA, Gertrude Freedman, 508-887-5101
MD, Bulldog Rescue and Education Service, Inc.
Kimberly Hood, 410-633-7814
MD, Baltimore area, O'Neil Wagner, 410-679-3333
ME, Bulldog Club of Maine, Irene Head, 603-332-3306
ME, Miriam Lundeen, 207-989-6791
ME, Nancy Christensen
MI, Detroit Bulldog Club, George Cromer, 313-352-3707
MN, Saint Paul - Minneapolis Bulldog Club
Marcia Tiegs, 612-445-6836
MO, Greater Kansas City & St. Joseph,
Heart of America Bulldog Club, Pat Sullivan, 913-829-2305
Heart of America Bulldog Club, Beverly Larrick, 913-829-3737
NV, Anne Murray, 702-677-0513
NV, South Nevada Bulldog Rescue, Lee Kinley, 702-451-2331
NH, ME, MA, Bulldog Club of Maine, Irene Head, 603-332-3306
NH, Ray & Deborah Turner, 603-742-3104
NJ, Rosemarie Strucke, 908-577-0514
NJ, CT, NY, PA, Gary Abalsamo, 201-798-7420
NJ, Monmouth & Ocean Counties, Robert & Ann Howd, 908-681-0355
NJ, Paul Jecas, 908-846-7699
NM, Nancy Morrison, 505-434-8226
NY, Long Island Bulldog Club, Linda Fiordiliso, 516-798-4964
NY, Long Island Bulldog Club, Marlene Hall, 516-694-3776
NY, Jane Rosenblum, 212-677-3050
NY, Sheila & Frank Balik, 716-359-9901
NC, Susan Luck Hooks, 704-375-4307
NC, David Helms, 704-624-5860
NC, Marianne Snellen, 704-233-5674
OH, Dayton, Cincinnati and N. KY
Buckeye Bulldog Club, Elizabeth Harshbarger, 513-278-4108
OH, Amy Hankinson
OH, Cincinnati Bulldog Club, John Zakar, 513-696-2657
OH, Bulldog Club of Greater Cleveland Jerry Watkins, 216-362-6330
OH, Toledo Bulldog Club, Nancy Paul, 419-822-5074
OK, Greater Tulsa Bulldog Club, Dina Foster, 918-241-1402
OR, DIVISION V, South West Oregon Bulldog Club
Kristine Metzger, 503-726-1007
OR, Portland, Hillsboro, Oregon City, Gresham
Oregon State Bulldog Club, Dianne K. Croan, 503-761-0841
OR, Sheila Dunn, 503-746-3335
PA, Deb Street, 717-993-6332
PA, Donna Callahan
SC, Sylvia Arrowwood, 803-899-7460
TN, Music City Bulldog Club of Nashville
Nancy Boniface, 615-459-5411
TX, Austin Bulldog Club, Mike Menasco, 512-282-3423
TX, Elsie Panico, 409-894-2176
TX, East Texas, Bonnie Stansell, 903-687-2464
TX, Bulldog Club of Longview Texas,Essie Massingill, 903-842-3741
TX, Ft. Worth Bulldog Club, Laura Fletcher, 817-280-0735
TX, Ft. Worth Bulldog Club, Ellen Pierson, 817-485-9054
TX, Houston, Southeast Texas, Bulldog Club of Texas
Greg & Tina Byers, 713-997-2253
TX, North TX, Lone Star Bulldog Club, Dixie Little, 214-298-7430
TX, South Texas, San Antonio Bulldog Club
Diana & Jim Young, 210-340-0055 or 800-594-4289
TX, South Texas, Dyanne Welch, 512-439-7279
TX, West Texas, Joanna Smith, 915-520-4714
VA, Pat Butcher, 804-467-2609
VA, Robert & Mary French Hall, 804-721-7334
VA, Bobbie Sandvig, 804-288-3684
WA, northern, Bonnie Wasnock, home 604-534-6856, wk 800-663-1425
WA, Hazel Saari, 206-695-3631
WI, Division II, Ray Knudson, 414-537-2774
WI, Milwaukee Bulldog Club, Adair Templin, 414-332-9095
WI, Maxine Krengel, 608-244-2336
WV, Kyle Fisher, 304-525-3614
If you are doing bulldog rescue and you want to be on future
updates of this list, please send the following information to:
Diana and Jim Young
National Coordinators of Bulldog Rescue
7508 Marbach Road
San Antonio, Texas 78227
210-340-0055 (or area code 512 ?)
Rescue volunteer's name
Area in which you rescue
Name of local bulldog club or other organization
with which you are associated, if any.
Wilfrid P. LeBlanc /
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