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puppy not eating well



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 7th 05, 05:25 AM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default puppy not eating well

hello. We have a new beagle puppy and the breeder started it on puppy
chow. She just doesnt seem to like this food. I usually have to hand
feed it to her unless she is really hungry. We have been leaving it in
her crate at night and sometimes she eats a little of it.

When the adult purina food is out for our other beagle the puppy loves
it. I try to keep it away from her as much as possible because she
needs to be eating the puppy food. Also of course the reverse happens
and the adult dog goes after the puppy food and is always trying to
stick her head in the bag.

Should I try a change of food for the puppy? I've also found the puppy
will eat it up real quick if I mix some of the gravy from wet food.
Maybe they sell just the gravy packets at the pet store? She is
definitely not starving but shes like a little baby and I have to sort
of make it a play game for her to eat.


thanks

  #2  
Old October 7th 05, 06:43 AM
Janet Puistonen
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

wrote:
hello. We have a new beagle puppy and the breeder started it on puppy
chow. She just doesnt seem to like this food. I usually have to hand
feed it to her unless she is really hungry. We have been leaving it in
her crate at night and sometimes she eats a little of it.

When the adult purina food is out for our other beagle the puppy loves
it. I try to keep it away from her as much as possible because she
needs to be eating the puppy food. Also of course the reverse happens
and the adult dog goes after the puppy food and is always trying to
stick her head in the bag.

Should I try a change of food for the puppy? I've also found the puppy
will eat it up real quick if I mix some of the gravy from wet food.
Maybe they sell just the gravy packets at the pet store? She is
definitely not starving but shes like a little baby and I have to sort
of make it a play game for her to eat.


thanks


I don't know about beagles, but plenty of large breed puppy breeders put
them on adult food at 8 weeks. I doubt that most puppies actually "need"
puppy food. Most dogs eat more and more readily if there is competition.
It's not unusual for a puppy by itself to eat less. I wonder if you might
try feeding both dogs adult food and timing the meals to coincide as much as
possible (in other words, feed the adult twice, morning and evening, and
feed the puppy at the same time with maybe an extra meal for the puppy in
between if he's on 3 a day). Failing that, you could try those Eukanuba
supplement "gravies"--caveat: I haven't looked at their ingredients, so my
assumption that they are nutritionally reasonable may be false-- or there's
an excellent supplement called Nupro that can be made into a bit of a
"gravy" with a little warm water.

If I were you, I wouldn't change his food just for the sake of chaging it.
That tends to make dogs picky eaters for life. And I wouldn't feed canned
food with kibble either. Canned food is mostly junk, it's bad for their
teeth, and it's expensive.

Another thing to consider is that an awful lot of puppies are too fat. Yours
may just be eating the amount he needs.


  #3  
Old October 7th 05, 07:13 AM
Kadaitcha Man
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 6 Oct 2005 21:25:02 -0700, wrote:

hello. We have a new beagle puppy and the breeder started it on puppy
chow. She just doesnt seem to like this food. I usually have to hand
feed it to her unless she is really hungry. We have been leaving it in
her crate at night and sometimes she eats a little of it.

When the adult purina food is out for our other beagle the puppy loves
it. I try to keep it away from her as much as possible because she
needs to be eating the puppy food. Also of course the reverse happens
and the adult dog goes after the puppy food and is always trying to
stick her head in the bag.

Should I try a change of food for the puppy? I've also found the puppy
will eat it up real quick if I mix some of the gravy from wet food.
Maybe they sell just the gravy packets at the pet store? She is
definitely not starving but shes like a little baby and I have to sort
of make it a play game for her to eat.


thanks


Hello JediSpork, if you receive a reply from the well known netloon
and kook, The Amazing Puppy Wizard aka Jerry Howe, killfile him
immediately.

You just got hooked by replying to this well known
netloon and troll. Once he baits you as he does
with others, you became troll bait and he will flame
you and harass you through this newsgroup and in email.

PLEASE killfile this well known Jerry Howe aka
The Amazing Puppy Wizard who is using alot of alias in
here. He is a pathological liar and net kook.

All he does is slander and defame people in
here. He knows nothing about dog training or
canine behavior. He just makes this up and
has been trolling this newsgroup for years.
  #4  
Old October 7th 05, 02:59 PM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

HOWEDY janet,

Janet Puistonen wrote:
wrote:
hello. We have a new beagle puppy and the breeder
started it on puppy chow. She just doesnt seem to
like this food.


With all due respect to Purina, it's GARBAGE. ALL
commercial dog food is built to live on a shelf
for six months and is only made for CONVIENIECE
by folks who don't own a kitchen.

I usually have to hand feed it to her unless she is
really hungry. We have been leaving it in her crate
at night and sometimes she eats a little of it.


Yeah. It could be she's unhappy in the crate all alone.

When the adult purina food is out for our other
beagle the puppy loves it.


That's because she's got COMPETITION.

I try to keep it away from her as much as possible
because she needs to be eating the puppy food.


Both dogs would benefit from a fresh wholesome diet.

Also of course the reverse happens and the adult
dog goes after the puppy food and is always trying
to stick her head in the bag.


No problemo. Try to keep a dog from gettin
sumpthin and that only makes them try harder
to get it. You can train him not to do that
in a couple minutes if you know HOWE.

Should I try a change of food for the puppy?


He probably needs to have milk or cottage cheese
added to his diet if he's gonna go off of the puppy
chow for a little while.

I've also found the puppy will eat it up real
quick if I mix some of the gravy from wet food.


If he's been fed DRY then of curse he ain't gonna eat it.

Maybe they sell just the gravy packets at the pet store?


Maybe just follow the recipe I offered and
check it out with the pup's veterinarian to
make sure it's APPROVED by a veterinarian.

She is definitely not starving but shes like
a little baby and I have to sort of make it
a play game for her to eat.


That'll get her dependent on hand feeding.

thanks


I don't know about beagles,


Right. You don't know NUTHIN about any dog, janet.

but plenty of large breed puppy breeders
put them on adult food at 8 weeks.


CITES PLEASE, janet? Your posted case history
shows you to have a lot of unsubstantiated
opinions based on myth and phallusy.

I doubt that most puppies actually "need" puppy food.


You DOUBT, janet? Aren't you SURE?

Most dogs eat more and more readily if there is competition.


INDEED?

It's not unusual for a puppy by itself to eat less.
I wonder if you might try feeding both dogs adult
food and timing the meals to coincide as much as
possible (in other words, feed the adult twice,
morning and evening, and feed the puppy at the same
time with maybe an extra meal for the puppy in
between if he's on 3 a day).


IMAGINE?

Failing that, you could try those Eukanuba supplement
"gravies"--caveat: I haven't looked at their ingredients,
so my assumption that they are nutritionally reasonable
may be false-- or there's an excellent supplement called
Nupro that can be made into a bit of a "gravy" with a
little warm water.


That's nice, janet.

If I were you, I wouldn't change his food just for the
sake of chaging it. That tends to make dogs picky eaters
for life.


That's absurd, janet.

And I wouldn't feed canned food with kibble either.


For what reason?

Canned food is mostly junk,


You mean, like dry dog chow?

it's bad for their teeth,


CITES PLEASE?

and it's expensive.


Yeah, but it's 75% moisture.

Another thing to consider is that an
awful lot of puppies are too fat.


That so?

Yours may just be eating the amount he needs.


You got a crystal ball, janet?

HOWEDY janet,

Janet Puistonen wrote:
Janet B wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jul 2005 13:10:07 -0400, DaveR
, clicked their heels and said:


Don't think "force" or "coax". Think - "let's go" - upbeat
but keep moving - don't let him put on the brakes - put his
leash on and get him moving and just keep going.


Yup-


Yup. JUST LIKE HOWE you done, eh janet?

-that's exactly what I do.


THAT'S EXXXACTLY HOWE COME YOU GOT THE SAME PROBLEM,
REMEMBER janet you dog abusing mental case? You got
the same HOWEsbreaking and the same leash trainin
PROBLEM for the same reason, janet, you freakin dog
abusing MENTAL CASE.

And if she does put on the brakes I just keep moving


And your dog spins and flip flops at the end of your
leash choking and screaming. REMEMBER janet?

THEN YOU WONDER HOWE COME IT SHITS IN YOUR HOWES
JUST LIKE daver, REMEMBER janet?

and she starts walking again after brief resistance.


EVERY TIME. BWEEEEEEEEEEEAAAHAHAHAHHHAAA!!!

HOWE COME you're givin daver advice for the
SAME PROBLEMS YOU GOT AND CAN'T FIX, janet?:

You can't even HOWEsbreak your own dog or train
IT to walk on leash withHOWET CHOKIN:

From: "Janet Puistonen"
Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 19:08:16 GMT

Subject: Just Adopted from Rescue...

Ronna wrote:
get her to focus and gain her trust, although the need for that
doesn't seem to be anywhere near as dire as we originally feared.)
At the moment, there is no way I would take her to a class, because
it would just overwhelm her.

And I don't need a class to train her. Socialization
would be another issue....


Interestingly, she doesn't mind having the leash *on.* It's
ambulating in the same direction in a sane manner that seems
to be her issue.

It's as if once she gets outdoors she loses her mind.

I have the feeling that she was rarely walked, so she has no
idea that she will be able to move about and explore unless
she forcibly drags me around and bolts hither and yon.

And it's not as if she simply acts determined to investigate
particularly interesting smells or anything. It almost seems
random. She's a very odd dog, and it is hard to tell if this
behavior is learned or whether she is innately somewhat cuckoo.

Or a combination of the two, of course.

Now that she's had a couple of days to settle in, I'm going
to start the sort of reward-based leash work you describe.

I encourage you to take classes, even though you say you don't need
them. Find a Positive Reinforcment based trainer, rather than one who
uses compulsion (choke chain) training. There is nothing wrong with
using food as reward, as long as you learn how to use it correctly.
Good luck!


Why? You see, I've been to a lot of obedience classes with
other dogs over the years, and taught my older dog to do all
the basics (come, sit, stay, wait, down, stand, heel off lead
and on, automatic sits, fetch) with hand signals *or* voice
commands.

(I did take him to classes for quite a while, actually, and
of course they were very valuable, but he learned most of this
before he went or outside of class, especially hand signals.)

I'm certainly not saying that I am a fabulous dog trainer--I'm
not, or my older boy would have an obedience titleG--or that
there is nothing to be learned in a class, but I am reasonably
competent and as far as I can see classes would simply cause
her to flip out now, and possibly for a long time to come.

I use positive reinforcement already--especially with
goldens, and especially with a spooky, fearful dog like her.

So I really don't see any benefit for *her*, not me, at this
point. Maybe eventually, after a lot of confidence building...

Is there something else you think she would get out
of a class at this stage?

I agree that there is nothing wrong with using food
for training, especially at first, and especially
with a dog like her.

As far as the choke thing goes, she has to be on a choke
collar for safety reasons when outdoors.

If she had a plain buckle collar, she could pull out of it
backwards--and believe me, pulling backwards is one of her
favorite movesG--which could get her killed or lost.

One of my major concerns is getting her some good exercise,
which I'm hoping would improve both her physical condition
and her mental state.

I think I'm going to have to use a flexi, since I don't feel
I can let her loose to play and she simply can't take a walk
on a regular 6-ft lead. I'm afraid that taking her out on the
flexi will only encourage her crazy leash behavior, but I don't
see what else to do at this point.

Introducing New Dog to Household Cats

From: "Janet Puistonen" -
Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2005 15:16:43 GMT

Subject: Introducing New Dog to Household Cats

arp wrote:
What language is this post written in?
Is it some kind of secret code?
Can anyone with knowledge of the English language
help me to decipher it. Thank you.


This is a post by the resident troll/lunatic of the
various dog groups. He posts in the same style under
a variety of aliases, but his real name is apparently
Jerry Howe. He has been posting and cross-posting this
way for at least 8 years or so.

My advice would be to killfile as many of his aliases
as you can, and ignore him.

Don't feed the troll. (And remove his cross-posts if
you are going to reply to him! G)

Mon,Jun 20 2005 12:40 pm
Subject: Any help for housetraining set back?

HOWEDY janet,

Janet Puistonen wrote:
wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 10:26:16 -0400 bizby40
whittled these words:


It's been 14 years since I last housetrained a dog.


Your pal Master Of Deception blankman is a lying dog
abusing punk thug coward mental case who chokes shocks
locks dogs in boxes and beats them in the face with her
shepherd's crook surgically mutilates dogs and lies
abHOWET it.

Intreesting question. Because when I try to answer it the
first thing that springs to mind is to consider what is
meant by "house trained".


We were just discussing that at home yesterday,


That so? There's deep philosophical meaning associated
with closely monitoring the BHOWEL habits of HOWER pets
children and parents...

because my new rescue dog was supposedly "house trained,"


IMAGINE? HOWEsbreakin is INSTINCTIVE at four weeks of age, janet.

according to the forms from the shelter.


People LIE when they send dogs to the "shelter" so
the SHELTER DOG LOVERS will accept them and MAYBE
NOT MURDER IT pryor to gettin a new HOWES that can
tolerate the behaviors they're DUMPIN the dog over.

If your SHELTERS knew HOWE to pupperly handle and
train dogs they wouldn't NEED to take dogs HOWET
of perfectly good HOWESES and lock them in boxes
in someWON else's HOWES till IT can find a HOWES
that'll tolerate those UNTRAINABLE behavior problems
the dog is gettin DUMPED for.

But she is only partially so


You mean she doesn't ALWAYS **** an **** in your HOWES, janet.

by my definition,


You think there's great philosophical differences
in the DEFINITIONS of HOWEsbroken, janet?

since she has accidents in the house.


Dogs DO NOT HAVE "accidents" in the HOWES unless
they're locked in for longer than reasonably long.
OtherWIZE, dogs havin HOWEsbreakin "ACCIDENTS" are
DOIN IT on accHOWENT of THEY'RE EITHER SICK or
UNHAPPY, like HOWE your dog is, janet.

Despite being taken out every few hours on a fairly regular schedule,


Well janet, THAT'S HOWE COME your dog can't CON-TRAIN hisslef,
you've DISAVAILED him of the ABILITY to DEVELOP SELF-CON-TROLL.

she will relieve herself in the house if she feels
the need and she's able to sneak off.


Your dog sneaks off to **** an **** in your HOWES
on accHOWENT of she's AFRAID of you molesting her
someMOORE, janet.

Unlike a new puppy, she won't actually do it in from of you.


On accHOWENT Of LIKE a NEW puppy IT AIN'T LEARNED
that you're gonna ASSAULT IT for messin in the HOWES.

My definition of house trained is "won't do it in the
house under normal circumstances no matter what, unless
sick."


IOW, your dog AIN'T HOWEsbroken on accHOWENT
of she's AFRAID OF YOU catchin her IN THE ACT,
janet. You're a dog abusing mental case with
a very long posted case history of hurting and
intimidating dogs and LYIN abHOWET it.

(The workday thing doesn't some up since we are both
self employed and never leave the dog all day alone
indoors.)


At least you don't leave IT alone indoors UNLESS
you got IT locked in a cage too small to mess and
not be FORCED to lie in **** and ****, like HOWE
you PREFER:

Newsgroups: soc.college.admissions
From: "Janet Puistonen"
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 18:30:05 GMT

Subject: Philosophy?

Anyone know of any colleges or universities that are known to have
outstanding undergraduate philosophy departments? (Thinking that St
Johns--in Annapolis, not NY--would be one possible choice, although
that would of course be an atypical situation.) And, if so, do said
departments have any particular philosophical bent?

Newsgroups: rec.arts.mystery
From: "Janet Puistonen"
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 05:51:10 GMT
Subject: OT: Dogs & Crates - Need Help

Oh, and another thing you can do is make sure you are using
a crate that is small enough. If the crate is too large, she
will be more likely to designate one end of it as the bathroom.
---

From: "Janet Puistonen"
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 14:08:25 GMT
Subject: OT: Speaking of pets

"Jeremy" wrote in message
...

"Janet Puistonen" wrote in message
...
"Jeremy" wrote in message
...
"JillBr" wrote in message
...
vicki wrote:


]In any event, I understand that cats make tasty little
snacks for coyotes, so we've been keeping ours indoors
as much as possible.


they do indeed. even owls will go after a cat.
[large enough owl] as will raccoons.


An owl near me picked up my neighbor's dog a week or
two ago. Luckily it couldn't hang on and the dog just
got scraped a little, but the neighbors with Jack
Russells are watching them closely now. (The dog that
was picked up is at least 15 lbs. heavier than the JRTs.)
Jill


This strikes me as fairly amusing. Does that make
me a bad person?


Jeremy


Yes.


Owls carry away beloved pets to rip them open and eat them,
and you think it's funny?
Bad boy. Bad! Down! Stay!
Janet [dog lover]


As opposed to the family dog ripping apart a chipmunk?
Or the Fluffy the cat snacking on baby birds?


Jeremy, pleased that Miz Hannah is a tad too chunky to
go after small animals.


Ahem.

Official Verdicts:

Dog vs chipmunk: sympathy to the chipmunk, but too bad.

You must have been an inferior chipmunk if dog caught you.
Never seen this happen. Chipmunks too quick and smart. Hope
it didn't make dog sick to eat you. Rule in favor of dog.

Cat vs bird: sympathy to the cat for need for entertainment,
but too bad. People feed you. Leave the little birdies alone
and exercise your hunting instincts by catching something
nasty such as reptile or mouse inhabiting family house.

[Note to mice: live outdoors in good health, move inside
and die.] Rule in favor of bird.

Sincerely,

Ruler of All She Surveys

Newsgroups: rec.arts.mystery
From: "Janet Puistonen"
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 17:29:56
Subject: OT: Speaking of pets

"vj" wrote in message

...

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/la =ADbradoodle.htm
http://www.labradoodle.org/Sit =ADe/Home.aspx
http://www.labradoodle-dogs.co =ADm/
has anyone ever had one of these?


There are tons of lousy scam breeders out there producing "doodles"
of all kinds and other cross-breeds and ripping off ignorant dog
buyers. Basically, these people are breeding mutts with no health
testing or other qualifications, and the dogs they sell could be
had at the local shelter for far less money. Not to mention the
fact that you would be saving a life and not rewarding the kind
of jerk who produces gazillions of puppies and sells them without
contracts to anyone who asks, with the result that probably
half of them end up in shelters or executed. RANT!! RANT!!

---

Newsgroups: rec.arts.mystery
From: "Janet Puistonen"
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 02:10:38 GMT
Subject: OT: Speaking of pets

"vj" wrote in message
...

vj found this in rec.arts.mystery, from "Janet Puistonen"
:


]There are tons of lousy scam breeders out there producing
"doodles" of all]kinds and other cross-breeds and ripping
off ignorant dog buyers.


Basically, these people are breeding mutts with no health
testing or other qualifications, and the dogs they sell
could be had at the local shelter for far less money.


Not to mention the fact that you would be saving a life
and not rewarding the kind of jerk who produces gazillions
of puppies and sells them without contracts to anyone who
asks, with the result that probably half of them end up in
shelters or executed. RANT!! RANT!!

i have no intention of buying one, Janet.
it was a "breed" they were talking about on CNN last night -
for people who have allergies. i just wanted to know if anyone
had one or had heard of them.


those were just the links that came up on Google.


I didn't think _you_ did, hon. My rant was aimed more at the
person who doesn't know any better.

"Doodle" anythings are NOT a "breed" though, and I want to make
sure that no one is led astray by their marketing.

There is also no such thing as a "hypo-allergenic" dog. Some breeds
of dog do _tend_ to trigger fewer reactions in allergic people than
others. Poodles, for example. Also Bichon Frise. So if you have
allergies, the thing to do is go visit a _reputable_ breeder of one
of those breeds and spend some time rolling around on the floor with
their dogs in their house and see whether it triggers your allergies.

Or get a friend who owns one to come for a visit with the dog
for the weekend. The last thing anyone should do is buy an
overpriced mutt or random-bred "AKC registered" dog from some
fake breeder on the Internet or from the local newspaper.

Anyone who is thinking about getting a dog should go to the web
site www.dog-play.com and read up. It is a great site, very
informative and helpful to everyone, no matter what kind of dog
you are looking for.

Newsgroups: rec.arts.mystery
From: "Janet Puistonen"
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 16:54:32 GMT

Subject: Dog shoots man trying to kill pups.

"Mark Alan Miller" wrote in message
om...

"Janet Puistonen" wrote in message
news:skH1d.1855$Tg7.1130@trndny05...
Mark Alan Miller wrote:


So are you saying that no one at all should breed dogs?
Or that only farmers who breed mutts should breed dogs?
Or what?


No, I've never said any of that. What I've said all along is
that ALL people who breed dogs are contributing to the total
population of dogs and MUST be aware of that. That being
"serious" about breeding doesn't make you any less responsible
for the excess of puppies, despite how many papers you get
signed and how many promises you make about those puppies.


But I have shown you endless evidence that they ARE aware of that.
And that they, and they alone, take active steps to make sure that
the puppies they breed do not add to the problem in this or future
generations, and that they are the people who do breed rescue.

There is direct proof that they ARE "less responsible" for the
problem than anyone else who breeds a bitch. Do you seriously
want them all to just stop breeding any litters at all for the
forseeable future, leaving the mills and BYBs to fill the gap?

Are you going to legislate that all people who want dogs MUST
get one from a shelter for the forseeable future?

Are you going to legislate that every single person who currently
has an intact bitch--including those farmers you think are so
wonderful--has to go out and have her spayed immediately?

Are you going to legislate that anyone who abandons a dog should
be jailed?

Unless you are willing to take these draconian steps, you will
not stop dogs from breeding. Of course, you'll have a problem
breeding ANY dogs when you're done, since there won't be any
intact bitches left, but oh well.

You should reserve your ire for puppy mills and BYBs, and for
the people who buy from them and in doing so keep the whole
cycle going.

"Granted That The Dog Who Fears Retribution
Will Adore His Owner," lying "I LOVE KOEHLER"
lynn.

lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:
For barking in the crate - leave the leash on and
pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to it.
When he barks, use the line for a correction.

- if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar.

Lynn K.

"I used to work the Kill Room as a volunteer in
one shelter.) But their ability to set their own
schedules and duties causes a great deal of
scheduling overhead.

And it takes effort and thought to ensure that
volunteers get the meaningful experience that
they work for.

Someone has to be responsible for that
Volunteer Program, and it is best done
by a non-volunteer."

Lynn K.

I'll be you've never had to put down litters of
beautiful labrador puppies? If you had did, maybe
you'd be singing a different tune?

"Actually, have held them for the tech to euth, and
put their bodies in the trash bag and in the freezer
for the trash company to come and dispose of.

No different tune," ~Emily

"I'll bet you don't know a thing about me.
I volunteered as assistant to the euthanasia
tech at our local shelter for a while, and
I know a bit about overpopulation and unwanted
animals.

This however has nothing at all to do with
responsible breeders, because responsible
breeders don't contribute to that problem,"
Mustang Sally.

"After Numerous Training Classes, Behavioral
Consultations, And Hundreds Of Dollars In Vet
Bills, I Killed My Dalmatian Several Years Ago
Due To Extreme Dog-Aggressiveness," racetrack silly.

"Sally Hennessey" wrote in message

...

Nope. No more than you'd convince Patch that
prongs and e-collars, in the right hands, are not
intrinsically abusive; or that dogs trained properly
with prongs or e-collars are not fearful, in pain, or
intimidated; or that any one of us here knows our
own dogs and their reactions better than someone
who has never seen them or us...hmmm.

I'm starting to see some similarities here.

Sally Hennessey

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001
Subject: shock collars

Sally Hennessey wrote in message

...

Aside from being incredibly offensive and self-righteous,
this post shows and absence of knowledge in the differences
in dogs' temperaments, or perhaps a lack of ability to perceive
same. The fact that you, Alison, have never met a dog to whom
corrections and discomfort, even pain, were unimportant does
not mean that such dogs do not exist.

What it means is that you don't know as much about dogs
as you think you do, and you surely don't know a damn
thing about Harlan or anyone else's dog here.

I had a Dalmatian that would instigate fights with one
of her housemates; that dog had no fear or anything,
and pain incurred during a fight meant nothing to her.

I know that that dog is not unique, and I'm sure many
people here can tell similar stories. The fact that you,
Alison, continue to say things to people such as what
you said to Theresa about causing her dog to suffer
(at least I guess that's what you meant by "you cause
your dog suffers" - - must be the King's English you
guys talk about over there) means that you are an
ignorant, arrogant, insensitive person who is not worth
further notice.
Sally Hennessey

"I'd call the SHOCK fence effective and safe.
Humane is one of those hot words that people
can debate all day so I won't touch that one.
There are people who would call a regular chain
link fence inhumane," liea altshuller.

"You Lying Sack Of Dung.When Have I Ever Said
Anything About Using A Prong Collar, Or Any Collar
Correction At All, To Make Dogs Friendly To House
Cats? Don't bother. The answer is never," lying "I
LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.

lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn writes about kats and dogs:

"This Article Is Something We've Put Together
For SF GSD Rescue

From: Lynn Kosmakos )
Subject: I have a dog he has cats
Date: 1999/11/20

wrote:
How can I get him to quit chasing the cats.


Okay - this is going to be a bit loooong - Lynn K.

"Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog. Don't
forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong works
better than a choke with less chance of injury to the dog in
this situation.

Electronics can be used to create an aversion to cats, but
should be used under the direction of a trainer who knows how
to instruct the owner in their proper use. Electronics can
take the form of shock, sonic or citronella collars. At that
time the owner will train with electronics instead of food or
whatever other reward system was being used."

8) Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog.
Don't forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong
works better than a choke with less chance of injury to the
dog in this situation. Have the dog in a sit-stay next to
you with most of the slack out of the leash and let the cat
walk through the room and up to the dog if it wishes (this is
why you have the dog muzzled).

If the dog makes an aggressive move towards the
cat, it must be corrected strongly with both your
voice and the collar.

This is important - the correction must be physically
very strong - not a nag. (PS: not many dogs need
to be corrected at all)."

"I used to work the Kill Room as a volunteer in
one shelter.) But their ability to set their own
schedules and duties causes a great deal of
scheduling overhead.

And it takes effort and thought to ensure that
volunteers get the meaningful experience that
they work for.

Someone has to be responsible for that
Volunteer Program, and it is best done
by a non-volunteer." Lynn K.

"I worked with one shelter where I bathed and groomed
every adoptable dog on intake. I frankly felt that the
effort/benefit equation was not balanced for some of the
older/ill poodle/terrier mixes we got in badly matted condition.

Should I have refused to groom them?

Or even more pertinent - I was one of the people who
had to make the euthanasia decisions at that shelter."

Lynn K., Long term incurable mental case.

Baghdad Bob Baghdadbob wrote in message
news:04591a2c5d469ef78d35c89ed4ed58f7@TeraNews.. .

Lynn, looks like he got you there if these
quotes are true.
In the posts below you take responsibility for
making those calls.
In your post above, you state you do not
make those calls.
Which one is it?

As a rescuer I admire once told me,


You mean sue sternberg.

"Never look back. If you do, you won't
be able to see the dogs who are looking
for your help today & tomorrow.".


That so?

Perhaps THAT'S HOWE COME it trHOWEbles
you so when The Amazing Puppy Wizard QUOTES
YOUR "OLD" posts.

Lynn K.


BWEEEEEEEEAHAHAHAHAHHAAA!!!

EVERY NEW POSTER KNOWS YOU'RE A
LIAR A DOG ABUSER A COWARD AND A
CERTIFIED LONG TERM INCURABLE MENTAL
CASE.

WORDS OF WISDOM
from our own Lynn Kosmakos
1200mg of lithium and 50 mg of Zoloft every day
For Twenty Years

I THINK I'M QUALIFIED TO TALK ABOUT LITHIUM

"I, too, have a bi-polar mood disorder (manic-depression)
requiring 1200mg of lithium and 50 mg of Zoloft every
day.

I, also, care about dogs and use this forum to learn
more, while happily sharing pertinent information
I have learned. But if I were ever to post such sh*t,
I would hope that every other reader of this group
would be rightfully outraged."

"Community is an evolutionary thing that we earn
the right to participate in by observing the
easily understood rules and contributing to in
constructive ways."

Lynn K.

------------------------------=AD=AD=AD-----------

"It wasn't that meds didn't work for her
- she wouldn't take them. I particularly remember
a comment she made about scarey side effects of
Lithium. Hardly. After 17 years on it, I think
I'm qualified to say that the very low risk of
any side effect is far less frightening than the
very real dangers of life without it."

Lynn K.
------------------------------=AD=AD=AD-------

THAT'S INSANE. AIN'T IT. So's this:

Here's professor of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM research
at UofWI, marshall "SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM
"NO!" into ITS face for five seconds and lock IT in a
box for ten minutes contemplation," dermer:

"At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function.
But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and
shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases
then you will have achieved too things.

First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased;
and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher.

How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the
minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted
biting.

**********IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?************

When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild
forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth
closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came
before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above).

"No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog"
to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works," marshall
dermer, research professor of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM at
UofWI. For MOORE animal abuse, please visit dr p.

BWAHAHAHHAHAAAA!!!!!

That's INSANE. Ain't it.

 




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