I have 4 beautiful dachshunds, 1 spayed older female, 1 male just under
a year, 1 female that is 9 mos, and we just got a male about 1 year old
from a home who couldn't take care of him. The new one is the problem.
He has been shuffled from home to home and is adorable, but I need some
advice. My other 3 are kennel trained. Please let me know if my
treatment can be improved or changed, I'm not experienced in having so
many inside dogs. The "new" one is obviously very intimidated by the
other 3, and of course the males are now trying to "outmark" each
other, all in my house. I know housebreaking this breed can be very
trying, but I'm willing to take care of this pet that has been shuffled
around. What can I do to keep these males from marking all over my
house and furniture, and fighting with each other? I am willing to get
the new one fixed, although I don't think that will solve the problem.
My other male is registered and would like to put him up for stud, so
neutering him is not really an option at this point. I really love them
all and realize I may have gotten in over my head so any help or advice
would be extremeley appreciated. Please don't flame me, I need help,
not told what a dumbass I am for having so many. Thanks in advance.

John

On 7 Jul 2006 05:54:56 -0700, "silberj" , clicked
their heels and said:

What can I do to keep these males from marking all over my
house and furniture, and fighting with each other? I am willing to get
the new one fixed, although I don't think that will solve the problem.

Why not? It's not a cure all, but it is ONE component of having male
dogs living together in harmony.

My other male is registered and would like to put him up for stud, so
neutering him is not really an option at this point.

You'll get much better responses to this than mine, but in short, what
does your dog have that's special enough for someone RESPONSIBLE to
want him at stud? Are you showing him in conformation? Is he
pointed? Are you doing any other activities with him? Do you know
all of the health evaluations that must take place in order to breed
responsibly?

Neutering is always an option. There are millions of dogs in need of
homes. Unwanted Doxies are not rare, as you must be aware. Unless
you are experienced, have a responsible mentor, and have something to
add to the breed, studding a dog just doesn't make sense. Neutering
as part of gaining harmony and curbing marking, OTOH, does.
Registration means nothing when it comes to why a dog may be worthy of
being bred.

I really love them
all and realize I may have gotten in over my head so any help or advice
would be extremeley appreciated. Please don't flame me, I need help,
not told what a dumbass I am for having so many. Thanks in advance.

4 dogs isn't too many, IF they are well managed and great thought is
put into why's and wherefore's. Spay the 2nd bitch, neuter both the
boys and TRAIN. Training seems greatly underutilized for some reason,
and every dog needs it.

--
Janet Boss
www.bestfriendsdogobedience.com

My opinion, not necessarily those of others: I'd nueter/spay 'em all,
and convert a utility room into an indoor kennel.

You got a pack of hounds on your hands now (no matter how cutely
packaged) and they're vibrating at a very high non-human pitch, with
lots of support from each other. So they will need/want less
companionship from you. If you really want to set them up for success,
give 'em their own room for sleeping and while you're out. They have
plenty of company. Don't let them own the whole house.

Now you have a fine group of working dogs just begging for leadership
and a job to do. Don't let them down! Walk 'em like mad, and give 'em
lots of opportunity to be themselves. Maybe a local dachshund club?
Local beagle clubs will have plenty of rabbits to chase in fenced
fields.

silberj wrote:

of course the males are now trying to "outmark" each
other, all in my house.

Is it really your house if all those dogs feel free to claim it as
their territory?

The number of dogs doesn't matter as much as the level of leadership.
You need to establish a relationship with every individual dog so that
they understand marking is not tolerated. That's obviously a bigger
task than simply addressing the symptom, marking. I usually recommend
cleaning marked areas with an enzyme cleaner and working the dog
through a brisk obedience drill by the place marked, but that presumes
sufficient working relationship that the dog recognizes that as the
human reclaiming the territory. Without that relationship, you really
have to start at ground zero.

Lynn K.

HOWEDY lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn you miserable stinkin
lyin dog murderin professional dog trainin FRAUD and active
acute chronic long term incurable mental case,

wrote in message
oups.com...

silberj wrote:

of course the males are now trying to "outmark"
each other, all in my house.

tara o. aka tee aka scfundogs had the SAME problem with Joe Joe.

She jerked and choked and shocked and crated IT and still
couldn't TRAIN IT not to **** all over her HOWES and on
her DOMINANT ALPHA BITCH Fancy {) : ~ )

BWEEEEEAHAHAHHAAAAA!!!

Is it really your house if all those dogs feel free
to claim it as their territory?

THAT'S SHEER IDIOCY lyin "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.

Dogs DO NOT **** in their own HOWESES unless
they're SICK or UNHAPPY {); ~ )

The number of dogs doesn't matter as much as the level of leadership.

That's meaningless idiocy, lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.

You need to establish a relationship with every individual
dog so that they understand marking is not tolerated.

What the heel does THAT mean???

Your regular ADVICE is to jerk and choke the dog while
givin IT commands at the site the dog has "MARKED".

REMEMBER?

You call it DRILLS or DRILLING the dog on obedience.

That's obviously a bigger task than simply addressing
the symptom, marking.

Dogs **** in their HOWESES when they're anXXXIHOWES.

Dogs GET anXXXIHOWES from your "TRAINING", lying
"I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn:

LIKE THIS:

"Granted That The Dog Who Fears Retribution
Will Adore His Owner," lying "I LOVE KOEHLER"
lynn.

lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:
For barking in the crate - leave the leash on and
pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to
it. When he barks, use the line for a correction.-
if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar," Lynn K.

"Training is not confrontation,"Lynn K.

except when it is

"Unfortunately, some confrontation is necessary,
just to be able to handle the dogs. For example,
we need to crate train a dog immediately because
they are usually in need of medical care and they
are in foster homes with other dogs. It's a safety
necessity," lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.

"Training is not confrontation,"Lynn K.

except when it is

"So what? Whoever said that it's right to
always not confront? We sure can try, but
a dog who knows a command and growls when
given it is certainly being confrontational".
You can't simply walk away and pretend it
didn't happen or leave it for later work in
every situation." Lynn K.

--------------------

"I used to work the Kill Room as a volunteer in
one shelter.) But their ability to set their own
schedules and duties causes a great deal of
scheduling overhead.

And it takes effort and thought to ensure that
volunteers get the meaningful experience that
they work for.

Someone has to be responsible for that
Volunteer Program, and it is best done
by a non-volunteer."

Lynn K.

----------------

"I worked with one shelter where I bathed and groomed
every adoptable dog on intake. I frankly felt that the
effort/benefit equation was not balanced for some of the
older/ill poodle/terrier mixes we got in badly matted condition.

Should I have refused to groom them?

Or even more pertinent - I was one of the people who
had to make the euthanasia decisions at that shelter."

Lynn K.

----------------

I usually recommend cleaning marked areas with an enzyme cleaner

That's USELESS. Dogs DO NOT "mark over" their own spots.

and working the dog through a brisk obedience
drill by the place marked,

Ahhh, thank you!

From: Jerry Howe
Date: Thurs, Sep 6 2001 2:04 pm

Hello People,

Here's lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn again, doin it up big time,
lying and swearing she's never said 'that.' You gonna smarten up,
PEOPLE?



"Huh? I've Never Reeled In A Dog In My Life. I Don't Like
The Long Line Method And Don't Use IT. + "Call The Pup,
Reeling In If Necessary" Same lying "I LOVE KOEHLER"
lynn, Different Days, Same Lies. And YOU Eat Her Crap
Like Caviar -

Here's lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn again, doin it
up big time, lying and swearing she's never said 'that.'
You gonna smarten up, PEOPLE?

"Huh? I've Never Reeled In A Dog In My Life.

I Don't Like The Long Line Method And Don't Use It," lynn k.

"Lynn K." wrote in message
om...

"Jerry Howe" wrote in message
...
Hello People,

"Huh? I've Never Reeled In A Dog In My Life.
I Don't Like The Long Line Method And Don't
Use It," lynn k.

Read the following and then let's discuss proofing.

Maybe you want to read it again, Jerry. I don't use the
long line method of teaching a recall. You know, the
old "give the command and reel the dog in" thing.

From: Lynn Kosmakos )
Subject: dog comes when he feels like it
Date: 1999/05/21

"A.Waugh" wrote:
Does this mean no trips to the fenced off-leash dog park ?
At what age should a dog be trained 100% ?
What about socialization?

I've found dog parks to be great places for proofing the
recall, even with young puppies. Let the pup play with
other pups, while on a long line.

Call the pup, reeling in if necessary, and praise the heck out
of him, then let him go play again. The reason this works so
well at the dog park is that the pup learns that leaving the
fun to obey the command doesn't mean the fun is over. A very
good thing to learn early.

Timing is critical here, because what you want
is for him to think about escaping, maybe even
start, but still have time to give the command
and have him decide to come back to you before
he hits the end of the long line.

The very 1st thing is to secure her while you're training
so she can't chase when you are preoccupied and can't
work with her.

And, yes, I've had more than a few "come to Jesus
meetings" with dogs over willful disobedience.
Example - pup who knows full well what a recall is
hits adolesence and decides that the recall is optional.

Putting him back on a long line and doing 5 fast
recalls is a "come to Jesus meeting". Or if he suddenly
decides that he can release himself from a down/stay
after being solid at it for 5 months, and turns it into a
catch-me game, a sharp downward collar correction
as you put him back into position is a "come to
Jesus meeting".

Don't infer from that description that
force is an intrinsic part of it, though, because it
isn't. I know that that is what you are trying to get at,
but you'd be very wrong.

Lynn K

BWEEEEAAHAHAHAHHAAAA!!!


Date: 1999/05/22

Lynn Kosmakos wrote:
Jerry Howe wrote:
Doesn't putting the dog on a long line and hauling him
in take forever, if ever, to work?

Nope. Remember, we're talking about proofing, not teaching.
The dog has a recall in training situations, and isn't being
hauled in. The other dogs serve as a great distraction/attraction
and the long line only helps remind him he has to complete the
recall when he stops to consider going back to play instead of
coming all the way in.

that's why you guys have to train constantly

I train constantly because I like it, and so do my dogs.

They like being choked and shocked?

I think of precision heeling as dancing with my dog and
he works for it as hard as I do.

We've got a Conga line forming right behind professor
lyingdoc "scruff shake" dermer.

He has the flashiest drop on recall you've ever seen

Yes, you get that drop on recall by choking the dog and stomping on the
lead under your foot.

and you'd better believe he enjoys the reaction of people who see it.

As much as he enjoyed learining it? Is that why he's such a successful
SAR dog?

You seem to think training is just a matter of introducing new
behaviors. I think of it as working together.

Lynn K.


From: Lynn Kosmakos )
Subject: Reliable recall

wrote:

Rather, I feel that I need to put a long line on Brandywine
and then "accidentally" let him escape, and then do the training.

You're confusing training with proofing. You need to work with the
long line in a situation you can control first, to be sure he
understands the connection between the command and the recall action.

You don't want to set him up with a "escape" until he is reliably
coming on his own accord, all the time. Then you start to add
increasing proofs, with his normal escape pattern as the highest
level.

Timing is critical here, because what you want if for him
to think about escaping, maybe even start, but still have
time to give the command and have him decide to come
back to you before he hits the end of the long line.

Lynn K.


From: Lynn Kosmakos )
Subject: Help! Aust.Sheperd herding colts!

Date: 1999/06/19

Trudi Rioux wrote:

Hi. I'm new here and don't even know if this is the right place.

Welcome, and yes, this is the right place.

But.....if it is....I have 2 yr old Aust. sheperd female, herding
colts while I'm training. I need advice re training me to train her.

You have to do 2 separate things: deny her the opportunity to
chase and convince her that chasing is not something she wants to
do. The very 1st thing is to secure her while you're training so
she can't chase when you are preoccupied and can't work with her.
This is important because every time she successfully chases, it
reinforces the act. A single successful chase can wipe out the
benefits of many very good training sessions to convince her not
to chase.

To discourage her from chasing, you want to use a distraction
like a shake can, throw chain, discs, or electronic collar. (There
are many training books that can help you with the use of these
things.) When she alerts and is just starting for a colt, use the
distraction device. Don't say anything; you don't want her to
associate the distraction with you - just use it out of the blue.

When she lifts her head back towards you, praise the heck out
of her and step backwards, encouraging her to come back to
you, with lots of praise. You might want to do this with a long
line tied to a fence post the 1st few times, just to make sure she
can't chase, but give the distraction before she hits the end of
the line.

Lynn K.


From: Lynn Kosmakos )
Subject: "Down" command (for Leon)
Date: 1999/09/08

Robert Crim wrote:
So........what do you think a "come to Jesus meeting" is?

Why on earth are you fixating on this term? It is, BTW, a
term I happen to use a lot, though more in dealing with humans
than with dogs. I'm sure you know full well the derivation of
the term, and can't figure out why you are putting what seems
to be a negative spin on it. To me, a "come to Jesus meeting"
is a pivotal point, where a pattern or behavior is stopped and
a more productive one substituted. Just as it was in the revival
tents where the phrase came from.

I had a "come to Jesus meeting" yesterday with 2 fighting humans
in a conflict that was undermining a training program, and, yes,
that was the term I used to describe the resolution session.

And, yes, I've had more than a few "come to Jesus meetings" with
dogs over willful disobedience. Example - pup who knows full well
what a recall is hits adolesence and decides that the recall is
optional. Putting him back on a long line and doing 5 fast recalls
is a "come to Jesus meeting". Or if he suddenly decides that he
can release himself from a down/stay after being solid at it for
5 months, and turns it into a catch-me game, a sharp downward
collar correction as you put him back into position is a "come to
Jesus meeting". Don't infer from that description that force is an
intrinsic part of it, though, because it isn't. I know that that is
what you are trying to get at, but you'd be very wrong.

Lynn K

but that presumes sufficient working relationship

You mean, that the dog be OBEDIENCE TRAINED. That'll
take MONTHS. WON'T IT, lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.

that the dog recognizes that as the human reclaiming the territory.

THAT'S INSANE.

Without that relationship, you really have to start at ground zero.

Oh? You mean LIKE THIS?:

WORDS OF WISDOM
From Our Own Lynn Kosmakos
1200mg Of Lithium And 50 mg Of Zoloft
EVERY DAY
For Twenty Years

I THINK I'M QUALIFIED TO TALK ABOUT LITHIUM

"I, too, have a bi-polar mood disorder (manic-
depression) requiring 1200mg of lithium and 50
mg of Zoloft every day.

I, also, care about dogs and use this forum to
learn more, while happily sharing pertinent
information I have learned. But if I were ever
to post such sh*t, I would hope that every other
reader of this group would be rightfully outraged."

"Community is an evolutionary thing that we
earn the right to participate in by observing
the easily understood rules and contributing
to in constructive ways."

"It wasn't that meds didn't work for her
- she wouldn't take them. I particularly remember
a comment she made about scarey side effects of
Lithium. Hardly. After 17 years on it, I think
I'm qualified to say that the very low risk of
any side effect is far less frightening than the
very real dangers of life without it."

Lynn K.

------------------------------***-----------

Lynn K.

You're a liar a dog abuser a coward and mental case and
you can't post here abHOWETS nodoGdameneD MOORE.

"You Lying Sack Of Dung.When Have I Ever Said
Anything About Using A Prong Collar, Or Any Collar
Correction At All, To Make Dogs Friendly To House
Cats? Don't bother. The answer is never," lying "I
LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.

lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn writes about kats and dogs:

"This Article Is Something We've Put Together
For SF GSD Rescue

From: Lynn Kosmakos )
Subject: I have a dog he has cats
Date: 1999/11/20

wrote:
How can I get him to quit chasing the cats.

Okay - this is going to be a bit loooong - Lynn K.

"Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog. Don't
forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong works
better than a choke with less chance of injury to the dog in
this situation.

Electronics can be used to create an aversion to cats, but
should be used under the direction of a trainer who knows how
to instruct the owner in their proper use. Electronics can
take the form of shock, sonic or citronella collars. At that
time the owner will train with electronics instead of food or
whatever other reward system was being used."

8) Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog.
Don't forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong
works better than a choke with less chance of injury to the
dog in this situation. Have the dog in a sit-stay next to
you with most of the slack out of the leash and let the cat
walk through the room and up to the dog if it wishes (this is
why you have the dog muzzled).

If the dog makes an aggressive move towards the
cat, it must be corrected strongly with both your
voice and the collar.

This is important - the correction must be physically
very strong - not a nag. (PS: not many dogs need
to be corrected at all)."

Date: 1999/05/22
Lynn Kosmakos wrote:
Jerry Howe wrote:

Doesn't putting the dog on a long line and hauling
him in take forever, if ever, to work?

Nope. Remember, we're talking about proofing, not teaching.

The dog has a recall in training situations, and isn't being
hauled in. The other dogs serve as a great distraction/attraction
and the long line only helps remind him he has to complete the
recall when he stops to consider going back to play instead of
coming all the way in.

that's why you guys have to train constantly

I train constantly because I like it, and so do my dogs.

They like being choked and shocked?

I think of precision heeling as dancing with my dog
and he works for it as hard as I do.

We've got a Conga line forming right behind professor
lyingdoc "scruff shake" dermer.

He has the flashiest drop on recall you've ever seen

Yes, you get that drop on recall by choking the dog and
stomping on the lead under your foot.

and you'd better believe he enjoys the reaction of
people who see it.

As much as he enjoyed learining it? Is that why he's
such a successful SAR dog?

You seem to think training is just a matter of introducing
new behaviors. I think of it as working together.

Lynn K.

Lynn Kosmakos )
Subject: Reliable recall
Date: 1999/07/15

wrote:

Rather, I feel that I need to put a long line on Brandywine
and then "accidentally" let him escape, and then do the training.

You're confusing training with proofing. You need to work
with the long line in a situation you can control first, to be
sure he understands the connection between the command
and the recall action.

You don't want to set him up with a "escape" until he is reliably
coming on his own accord, all the time. Then you start to add
increasing proofs, with his normal escape pattern as the highest
level.

Timing is critical here, because what you want if for him
to think about escaping, maybe even start, but still have
time to give the command and have him decide to come
back to you before he hits the end of the long line.

Lynn K.


From: Lynn Kosmakos )
Subject: Help! Aust.Sheperd herding colts!

Date: 1999/06/19

Trudi Rioux wrote:

Hi. I'm new here and don't even know if this is the right place.

Welcome, and yes, this is the right place.

But.....if it is....I have 2 yr old Aust. sheperd female, herding
colts while I'm training. I need advice re training me to train her.

You have to do 2 separate things: deny her the opportunity to
chase and convince her that chasing is not something she wants to
do. The very 1st thing is to secure her while you're training so
she can't chase when you are preoccupied and can't work with her.

This is important because every time she successfully chases, it
reinforces the act. A single successful chase can wipe out the
benefits of many very good training sessions to convince her not
to chase.

To discourage her from chasing, you want to use a distraction
like a shake can, throw chain, discs, or electronic collar. (There
are many training books that can help you with the use of these
things.) When she alerts and is just starting for a colt, use the
distraction device.

Don't say anything; you don't want her to associate the
distraction with you - just use it out of the blue.

When she lifts her head back towards you, praise the heck out
of her and step backwards, encouraging her to come back to you,
with lots of praise. You might want to do this with a long line tied
to a fence post the 1st few times, just to make sure she can't
chase, but give the distraction before she hits the end of the line.

Lynn K.

And HOWE abHOWET THIS?:

"I used to work the Kill Room as a volunteer in
one shelter.) But their ability to set their own
schedules and duties causes a great deal of
scheduling overhead.

And it takes effort and thought to ensure that
volunteers get the meaningful experience that
they work for.

Someone has to be responsible for that
Volunteer Program, and it is best done
by a non-volunteer."

Lynn K.

----------------

"I worked with one shelter where I bathed and groomed
every adoptable dog on intake. I frankly felt that the
effort/benefit equation was not balanced for some of the
older/ill poodle/terrier mixes we got in badly matted condition.

Should I have refused to groom them?

Or even more pertinent - I was one of the people who
had to make the euthanasia decisions at that shelter."

Lynn K.

----------------

Baghdad Bob Baghdadbob wrote in message
news:04591a2c5d469ef78d35c89ed4ed58f7@TeraNews.. .

Lynn, looks like he got you there if these quotes are true.

In the posts below you take responsibility for making those calls.

In your post above, you state you do not make those calls.

Which one is it?

-----------------------

What kinda IDIOCY is this?:

From: Lynn Kosmakos )

"Remember this - The decision to "do right" that most
helps a dog's character is the decision that he makes
himself. You cannot teach a dog to not want something,
any more than you can teach a human not to want
something."

"I'm a Koehler-based trainer and used almost
exactly the same techniques with my very dog
aggressive bitch.

2. I have often rejected many of Koehler's Capt.
13 methods, from his response to digging to tieing
things in a dog's mouth.

FWIW, I use almost none of Koehler's training
techniques, having found methods I prefer, but
still find much value in his approach to dogs.

Briefly, I didn't refer to Koehler and didn't
mean Koehler when I used the term
"confrontational".

Natalie, it is next to impossible to form any kind
of educated opinion on the work of the late Wm.
Koehler from what is said or quoted in this newsgroup.

The conclusion you have reached illustrates that.

"Remember this - The decision to "do right" that
most helps a dog's character is the decision that
he makes himself."

Personally, I'm not a Koehler trainer,
I don't use a choke chain, and I don't
believe a dog learns anything by being
hung.

Please don't make the mistake of believing Jerry's
characterization of me or any other trainer. He has
never met any of us and has no idea how anyone
here actually trains.

Jerry labelling someone as a Koehler type
doesn't make it so.

Lynn K.

From: Jerry Howe
Date: Wed, Jan 20 1999 12:00 am
Email: Jerry Howe

Chris Kosmakos wrote:
Maris ) wrote:
: I have a 9 week old Dobepuppy. I've been teaching him to Sit (for 3
: days) and he's doing great. Is it okay to start with new command (Down)
: already, despite he doesn't get the Sit-thing every time right just yet?

Rather than teaching him a formal Down at this time, why don't you
start to teach him more casual foundation work, like "Settle" to have
him relax when excited, and to learn to lay quietly at your feet?

This is also the perfect time to start teaching the recall by bending
down and calling "ComeFidoComePuppyPuppY" in a high excited
voice with your arms outstretched towards him. I probably do that
30 times a day with 9 week old puppies.

That's SHEER IDIOCY:

"The IMBECILITY of some of the claims for operant
technique simply take the breath away. Lovas et al
(1966) report a standard contingent reward/punishment
procedure developing imitative speech in two severly
disturbed non verbal schizophrenic boys. After twenty-
six days the boys are reported to have been learning
new words with alacrity. HOWEver, when REWARDS
were moved to a delayed contingency the behavior and
learning immediately deteriorated."

"Despite Skinner's clear denunciation of "negative
reinforcement" (1958) NEARLY EVER LEARNING
THEORY model involves the USE OF PUNISHMENT.
Of curse, Skinner has never to my knowledge, demonstrated
HOWE we escape the phenomenon that an expected
reward not received is experienced as a punishment
and can produce extensive and persistent aggression
(Azrin et al, 1966)."

Why not spend just a few minutes to teach him to
come the first time, every time you call him?

Sixteen properly timed requests are all that are required.

Lynn K.
--


From: Chris Kosmakos
Date: Wed, Jan 20 1999 12:00 am
Email: (Chris Kosmakos)

Jerry Howe ) wrote:
: Will you guarantee that your techniques work all of the time?
: Will you stand behind them with a money back guarantee? I
: always have.

How can any trainer guarantee responses when there are so many
factors out of their control? For example, an rpd regular just put
an obed. title on one of her dogs with scores of 199 and 2 others
over 195. But it took her 4 trails because the dog broke a long
sit when a cow sounded off 10 feet behind his head.

Are you contending that she would have been justified to
request a refund of training fees because of that?

Lynn K.
--

Yeah... if you GUARANTEE YOUR WORK.

From: Lynn K. )
Subject: Free Feeding (Was Repeating Commands)
Date: 2001-07-17 21:59:53 PST

(DogStar716) wrote in message

...

For example, if one was to use the dogs regular
kibble as a motivator in class, the dog will probably
not be as motivated as he would be if a different type
of treat was offered (say, a piece of hotdog).

Not necessarily. Remember that there is value added
to the treat by virtue of getting it from the handler as a
reward.

That's the reason I handfed Java for a week.

To add value to the food.

It isn't just another piece of kibble when it
comes from Mom as a reward.

Lynn K.

From: Lynn K. )
Subject: Kali gets her CDX!
Date: 2003-10-26 13:49:37 PST

"KrisHur" wrote in message
... THANKS!

You deserve it! You have my empathy on the heeling
problem. 2 of 29 qualified in Open A & B this morning
at Sacramento - ring fouled overnight by conformation
people exercising their dogs.

A Borzoi vomited on the spot, a Rottie peed on it, and
almost every other dog (including Java) dropped their
nose to the spot and started tracking.

ARRRGH!

Lynn K.


The Sincerely Incredibly Freakin Insanely Simply Amazing

GRAND

Puppy, Child, Pussy, Birdy And Horsey Wizard {}; ~ )