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#1
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Crate wetting??!
I have an approx. 1 year old Coonhound Mix that we got at a shelter about 3 weeks ago. She is wonderful. She has been sleeping at the foot of our bed for the last few nights without an issue, but when we crate her during the day while we are at work she is wetting in her crate. She is walked and goes to the bathroom before we put her in her crate each morning. We have tried making the crate smaller, giving her less water in the morning... my husband has even started coming home at lunch to let her out....none of these things seem to help. She has no problem making it through the night, but can't seem to make it even 4 hours during the day. We even tried closing her off in a room to see if it was just the crate, but then she peed in the corner of the room. If we put her in the crate for 1 to 8 hours the effect is the same when it is during the day, but if we put her there at night she has no issue. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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#2
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Crate wetting??!
"Kdrake13" wrote in message
... I have an approx. 1 year old Coonhound Mix that we got at a shelter about 3 weeks ago. She is wonderful. She has been sleeping at the foot of our bed for the last few nights without an issue, but when we crate her during the day while we are at work she is wetting in her crate. She is walked and goes to the bathroom before we put her in her crate each morning. We have tried making the crate smaller, giving her less water in the morning... my husband has even started coming home at lunch to let her out....none of these things seem to help. She has no problem making it through the night, but can't seem to make it even 4 hours during the day. We even tried closing her off in a room to see if it was just the crate, but then she peed in the corner of the room. If we put her in the crate for 1 to 8 hours the effect is the same when it is during the day, but if we put her there at night she has no issue. Does anyone have any suggestions? Have her checked out at the vet, see if she's got a bladder infection. flick 100785 |
#3
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Took her to the vet last week and they said she was healthy. I'm starting to think it might be seperation anxiety, but I don't want to rush and put her on drugs; which is what the vet suggested when I called back and asked about what to do. ~Thanks. K |
#4
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Crate wetting??!
My German Shepherd never got over this. As long as she was with us,
she was a perfect impersonation of Lassie. But don't leave her, even for 10 minutes. Her separation anxiety took the form of the runs. I tried everything I could find on separation anxiety for over 3 years. Nothing worked. Finally she was banned to a kennel every time I leave. I love her and it is not the relationship with her that I wanted. But I had had enough of cleaning the floor and trying to deodorize all the time. Even her crate & garage floor stunk. Now, she can come in when we are here. Otherwise she is in the kennel. Sad, but I had no choice. (We have a fenced back yard, but she was destructive of that, even. When I began to have less than 1/3 of it in grass, I got the kennel.) Good luck. Kdrake13 wrote: I have an approx. 1 year old Coonhound Mix that we got at a shelter about 3 weeks ago. She is wonderful. She has been sleeping at the foot of our bed for the last few nights without an issue, but when we crate her during the day while we are at work she is wetting in her crate. She is walked and goes to the bathroom before we put her in her crate each morning. We have tried making the crate smaller, giving her less water in the morning... my husband has even started coming home at lunch to let her out....none of these things seem to help. She has no problem making it through the night, but can't seem to make it even 4 hours during the day. We even tried closing her off in a room to see if it was just the crate, but then she peed in the corner of the room. If we put her in the crate for 1 to 8 hours the effect is the same when it is during the day, but if we put her there at night she has no issue. Does anyone have any suggestions? -- Kdrake13 |
#5
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Crate wetting??!
On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 14:58:23 +0000, Kdrake13
, clicked their heels and said: Took her to the vet last week and they said she was healthy. Does that mean you took a urine sample and they did an e-coli culture? -- Janet Boss www.bestfriendsdogobedience.com |
#6
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Crate wetting??!
What! Why hit the dog? That's mean. Sounds like separation anxiety to me.
Spanking the dog and getting onto it for the act will only make it worse. Time patients and understanding should help. Does your young dog drink allot in the morning? If you are giving her water 20 minuets before you leave she is going to have to go within an hour of your leaving. You may have to adjust your schedule a little to get that extra potty break time after drinking. Also was she just spayed recently? That can cause some issues to that would require medication if they damaged her bladder muscles. I personally don't use the medication with my girl I just watch her closely and do potty breaks often. you may just have to adjust your water and feeding times to find the right one that helps her hold her bladder while crated, if she is getting excited and peeing a little thats submissive urination, some dogs grow out of that and there is nothing to really do about it except understand that she's happy to see you don't make seeing her an exciting thing and they sometimes stop doing it on their own. Human_And_Animal_Behavior_Forensic_Sciences_Resea wrote in message ps.com... HOWEDY kdrake13, Kdrake13 wrote: I have an approx. 1 year old Coonhound Mix that we got at a shelter about 3 weeks ago. She is wonderful. She has been sleeping at the foot of our bed for the last few nights without an issue, but when we crate her during the day while we are at work she is wetting in her crate. She is walked and goes to the bathroom before we put her in her crate each morning. We have tried making the crate smaller, giving her less water in the morning... my husband has even started coming home at lunch to let her out....none of these things seem to help. She has no problem making it through the night, but can't seem to make it even 4 hours during the day. We even tried closing her off in a room to see if it was just the crate, but then she peed in the corner of the room. If we put her in the crate for 1 to 8 hours the effect is the same when it is during the day, but if we put her there at night she has no issue. Does anyone have any suggestions? NO PROBLEMO! You just gotta learn HOWE to COMMUNICATE with your dog. Kdrake13 But first, take it to the vet. "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House, 1996": "Housebreaking problems: Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they're winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he's made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him. Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can aid in your house-breaking program. One type discourages the dog from even visiting an area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be able to supply further information on the brands available in your district. Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and you'll soon accomplish the job. --------------------------- Here's lyingdogDUMMY BEATIN a dog to HOWEsbreak IT: "Handsome Jack Morrison" wrote in message ... On 26 Jul 2003 22:14:29 GMT, (DogStar716) wrote: Never mind dogman You too? Some folks just never learn. Uh huh One of the signs of mental illness is to say "Uh huh" a lot. PS: If the "trainer" you were talking about isn't on this list, he (or she) is NOT an approved Koehler trainer, no matter how loud you scream otherwise. May I laugh again? LOL! One doesn't need to be on a list to use Koehlers methods or teach his methods. Let me be among the first (apparently) to tell you that not every trainer who uses a leash is a *Koehler* trainer. Sheesh. This person may call herself a Koehler trainer, but if she's hanging 12 week old puppies, she's about as far from a Koehler trainer as a dog trainer can possibly be. Again, this is just your IGNORANCE showing. I can call myself a devout Christian, but if I'm not adhering to the doctrine, I'm something else. http://www.koehlerdogtraining.com/patoflearn.html Sorry, the very first sentences make me aware that whoever wrote it knows nothing about PR based training: "Amidst the current (and politically correct) trend in Positive Reinforcement Only training systems" You cannot use PR only. Au contraire. Many, many posters to r.p.d.b. (and many other places as well) *claim* that they use nothing but R. You know, the PPers. And they do it quite loudly, too. Surely you aren't blind (and deaf), as well as ignorant? Those are hard handicaps to overcome, Dogstar. And if you knew anything about PR BASED training, you would realize that. It's not all cookies and babytalk. There is no stronger supporter of R than Handsome Jack Morrison, but I also use every behavioral tool in my bag, including R-, P, and P-, because I know that even R has its limits. You'd know that too, if you didn't have your head in the sand. But that seems to be the battle cry of the Koehler-ites. The Koehlerites have no battle cry. They have behaviorism on their side, and that's more than enough. I don't need instruction on how to give my dogs a proper leash correction as I do not rely on a leash to control or teach my dog. That may or may not be suitable for your needs, but it's not suitable for the majority of dog owners, especially since the advent of leash laws. Besides, after just a few weeks of proper Koehler training, Koehler dogs likewise are no longer in need of a leash. That you apparently don't know that, once again shows me just how ignorant of anything to do with Koehler you are. My last two dogs have been trained offleash right from the start, using rewards for what I like, and nothing for what I don't like. Good for you, and if that level of training is good enough for you, fine. But it's not good enough for many of the rest of us. Again, I'm not saying Koehler doesn't work. I really have no idea what you're saying anymore, because you apparently know so damn little about Koehler and behavioral principles in general that it's hard to have an informed discussion with you. PS: It boggles my mind at how stupid you must be to keep denying that those certain harsh methods are only for LAST RESORT situations, intended only to SAVE A DOG'S LIFE, even after I've repeatedly given you direct *quotes* from Koehler's book saying just that. It's like you don't even care how stupid people think you are, or how devious you are, etc. That can't help your cause any. You'd think that you'd at least want to *appear* to be honest, even if you're not. -- Handsome Jack Morrison *gently remove the detonator to reply via e-mail ----------------------- Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl. "Around four months many puppies can withstand a correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and wait for all those baby teeth to fall out. In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal food off the table, when you are teaching them something (like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a stick gets the message across with less emotion and less effect on their confidence. If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just severe enough to get the dog to respond. Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog." ===================== Amy Dahl writes: "From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't noticed any of the contingent who like Koehler trying to force their method on everyone, or calling others names because they do not use the method. I personally believe the Koehler method is a more humane way of teaching than any alternative I have studied. And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a number of methods. Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in his book, such as making the dog walk behind the handler on the "finish," are inappropriate for retriever work. Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than others? First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no corrections" is as significant to dogs as it is to people. Applied correctly, Koehler's method uses *no* intimidation, fear, or emotional manipulation. It is clear and definite, and the handler's actions are always predictable. The method is masterfully designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control in any way. It places high demands of responsibility on the trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment to do correctly, so it is not for the casual "dabbler." When done well,very few corrections are needed. In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and absence of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in the method's favor, than the occasional brief unpleasantness of correction weighs against it." lying frosty dahl. END lyingfrosty dahl If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick to lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal check or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a 30"-40" long whuppin stick. These all natural hickory switches will outlast an entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the life of your dog (which may be much shorter than nature intended!). The Sincerely Incredibly Freakin Insanely Simply A-M-A-Z-I-N-G G-R-A-N-D Puppy, Child, Pussy, Birdy And Horsey Wizard {} ; ~ ) |
#7
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They took a urnine sample and said it came back clean. Not sure exactly what tests they ran. We are trying a few things today to try and help with the seperation anxiety. We left on a radio and added another chew toy to her crate. She seems to love the Kong with peanut butter. ~k |
#8
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Crate wetting??!
Kdrake13 wrote in
: We left on a radio and added another chew toy to her crate. She seems to love the Kong with peanut butter. You might try freezing the PB Kong. It will last a lot longer that way as well. -- Marcel and Moogli http://mudbunny.blogspot.com/ |
#9
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Quote:
She made it through the morning no wetting or chewing on her bedding and through the afternoon without wetting in her cage...just a little chewinig on her bedding...fingers are crossed for another good day... Thanks for the Freezing suggestion...we did that today and we added some kibble into the peanut butter... hopefully will keep her entertained a little longer. |
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