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potty traing my Boston HELPPPPPP



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 7th 07, 01:11 PM
S tallman S tallman is offline
Junior Member
 
First recorded activity by DogBanter: Mar 2007
Posts: 1
Unhappy potty traing my Boston HELPPPPPP

Hi,I have a 6 mos old Bosten terrier Her name is Cookie.I got her when she was 3 mos old.I have been working on paper training her because the weather here in Mi can be so severe.Oh lord im pulling my hair out.I have been putting her papers upstairs were we sleep because she likes private when she pottys.or she wont go.she does use them.. then she wont,she pees mostly on the carpet right at the top of the stairs..she wil poop on the paper then next time on the carpet.its like what ever is convenant for her thats were she goes. or when she pees its faster at the top of the stairs.I do have a crate if that is an option.there must be an easier way.all i do is clean the carpets.Pleaseeeee Help.
Thank you!!
sue
  #2  
Old March 7th 07, 02:22 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Shelly
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Posts: 3,103
Default potty traing my Boston HELPPPPPP

S tallman wrote:
Hi,I have a 6 mos old Bosten terrier Her name is Cookie.I got her
when she was 3 mos old.I have been working on paper training her
because the weather here in Mi can be so severe.Oh lord im
pulling my hair out.


What are you doing to teach her that she must potty on the papers?

If you are going to paper train your dog, you should go about it the
*exact* same way you would to train her to go outside. Supervise her
closely so she cannot have accidents. This is absolutely, vitally
important! Every time you allow her to have an accident, it will
undermine the training you've done. Probably the easiest way to
supervise her is to leash her to yourself. When you cannot supervise
her, place her in her crate. Give her frequent potty breaks, and
TAKE HER TO THE PAPERS for those breaks. Praise her when she potties
on the papers.

If she *is* allowed to have an accident, clean it up thoroughly with
an enzymatic cleaner (available at most pet supply stores). This
will neutralize the odor. Even if you clean up a mess with regular
household cleaners, and you can't smell it, Cookie can still smell it.

I have been putting her papers upstairs were we sleep because she
likes private when she pottys.or she wont go.


She may prefer privacy, but she hasn't earned it. You have two
options: supervise her until she is completely house broken or clean
up messes for the rest of your dog's life.

--
Shelly
http://www.cat-sidh.net (the Mother Ship)
http://esther.cat-sidh.net (Letters to Esther)
  #3  
Old March 8th 07, 03:36 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
AWilliamson
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Posts: 63
Default potty traing my Boston HELPPPPPP

CRATE TRAINING
Introduction
Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many
dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective
housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural
reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce
separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing
furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household
items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile
indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.
A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling
by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their
premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to
hotel furniture and rugs.

Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young
grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a
crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the
purpose of punishment.

We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's
lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no
longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed
under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both
unobtrusive and useful.

Preparing the Crate
Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and
the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate
before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from
several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a
young puppy who accepts crating right away.

Wire Mesh type:Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without
moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a
piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the
floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.

Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate
Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the
far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy",
"Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be
inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented
toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You
may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats
in the crate.


Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be
attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two
hours in the crate.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft,
comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to
prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most
puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard,
flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it.
If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.

Location of Crate
Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home.
This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or
isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living
room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to
crate your puppy.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy
In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort,
security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:


Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog
biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will
discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the
crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of
the crate.


In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to
push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of
introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception:
You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon
retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed
overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the
kitchen, bathroom or living room.)


You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or
dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the
crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's
in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup
toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic
praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your
pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game.
Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.


It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while
you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished
while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your
absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This
prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving
him/her alone.


A Note About Crating Puppies
Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control.
Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks
should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually
8-12 times or more daily).

Important Reminders
Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in
the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the
bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.


Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an
uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled
(Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds
(Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should
always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never
leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]

Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being
crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to
discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog
eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an
appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog
continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:


* The pup is too young to have much control.
* The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.
* The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.
* The pup has worms.
* The pup has gaseous or loose stools.
* The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.
* The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to
* crate training.
* The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e.,
* bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)
* The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left
* alone.

Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely
in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between
approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to
housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced
to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of
development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate
outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products
retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue
throughout a dog's adult life.

Accidents In The Crate
If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him
upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer
(such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.

Crating Duration Guidelines
9-10 WeeksApprox. 30-60 minutes
11-14 WeeksApprox. 1-3 hours
15-16 WeeksApprox. 3-4 hours
17 + WeeksApprox. 4+ (6 hours maximum)

*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)

The Crate As Punishment
NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly
introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate
at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your
puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and
dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully
immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]

Children And The Crate
Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog
while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary.
His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.

Barking In The Crate
In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been
crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is
suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone.
Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.

When Not To Use A Crate
Do not crate your puppy or dog if:

* s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.
* s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness,
* intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of
* food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.
* s/he is vomiting.
* you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration
* Guidelines suggest.
* s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
* the temperature is excessively high.
* s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

Buying a Crate
Where to buy a crate: Crates can be purchased through most pet supply
outlets, through pet mail order catalogs and through most professional
breeders. Some examples a


Crate Size and Manufacturersog Size:
Small: (Vari-Kennel #100 or General Cage #201)Toy Poodles, the
Maltese, etc., with average weight of 6-10 lbs.
Medium Small: (Vari-Kennel #200 or General Cage #202/212)Mini
Schnauzers, Jack Russells, etc., with average weight of 11-20 lbs.
Medium: (Vari-Kennel #300 or General Cage #203/213)Cocker Spaniels,
Field Spaniels, small Shelties, etc., with average weight of 21-40
lbs.
Large: (Vari-Kennel #400 or General Cage #204/214)Huskies, large
Samoyeds, small Golden Retrievers, etc., with average weight of
41-65 Ibs.
Very Large: (Vari-Kennel #500 or General Cage #205/215) German
Shepherds, Alaskan Malamutes, Rottweilers, etc., with average
weight of 67-100 lbs.
Extra Large: (General Cage #206 or Mid-West #89-Z, 89-E or 99)
Newfoundlands, Great Danes, etc, with average weight of 110 lbs.
plus.


The Cost of A Crate
Crates can cost between $35 and $150 depending on the size and the type of crate and the source.


The Cost of Not Buying a Crate

The cost of not using a crate:
* your shoes
* books
* table legs;
* chairs and sofas;
* throw rugs and carpet, and
* electric, telephone and computer wires.
* The real cost, however, is your dog's safety and your peace of mind.

Alternative Method Of Confining Your Puppy

There are alternative methods to crating very young puppies and puppies
who must be left alone in the house for lengths of time exceeding the
recommended maximum duration of confinement (see Crating Duration
Guidelines). We suggest the following:

Use a small to medium-sized room space such as a kitchen, large bathroom
or hallway with non- porous floor. Set up the crate on one end, the food
and water a few feet away, and some newspaper (approx. 2'x3' to 3'x3')
using a 3 to 4 layer thickness, several feet away. Confine your puppy to
this room or area using a 3 ft. high, safety-approved child's gate rather
than shutting off the opening by a solid door. Your pup will feel less
isolated if it can see out beyond its immediate place of confinement.
Puppy proof the area by

~*~*~*Amy ~*~*~
Save a Tree, Save our Planet, Recycle, Think Organic
http://www.shaklee.net/williamson
________________
Thought of the day:
Use your MasterCard to pay your Visa bill.
  #4  
Old March 8th 07, 03:44 AM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Shelly
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,103
Default potty traing my Boston HELPPPPPP

AWilliamson wrote in
:

CRATE TRAINING
Introduction


The article you posted was written by Robin Kovary and Barbara
Giella and was taken from the following website.

http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html

It's one thing to post a properly credited excerpt from someone
else's material, or to give a link to it, but it's something else
entirely to repost the complete article without giving the authors
any credit whatsoever.

--
Shelly
http://www.cat-sidh.net (the Mother Ship)
http://esther.cat-sidh.net (Letters to Esther)

It's when the parents are cannibals that the kids turn out like
this.
-- Melora Creager
  #5  
Old March 8th 07, 01:34 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Janet Boss
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,368
Default potty traing my Boston HELPPPPPP

In article ,
Shelly wrote:



It's one thing to post a properly credited excerpt from someone
else's material, or to give a link to it, but it's something else
entirely to repost the complete article without giving the authors
any credit whatsoever.


Amy does this over on CBB as well. I'm not sure what the point is. She
seems unwilling to have a normal discussion and post a link if she
thinks it may be helpful, but posts other people's information at
random. I think the great cyber world is capable of googling
informational sites on their own. Time to block her over here.

--
Janet Boss
www.bestfriendsdogobedience.com
  #6  
Old March 8th 07, 01:49 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Melinda Shore
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 7,732
Default potty traing my Boston HELPPPPPP

In article ,
Janet Boss wrote:
Amy does this over on CBB as well. I'm not sure what the point is.


You know that spam that has a bunch of text and images and
smacks a pump for some crappy penny stock in the middle of
it? She's effectively doing the same thing, only instead of
crappy penny stock it's crappy MLM crappy crappiness.
--
Melinda Shore - Software longa, hardware brevis -

If you can't say it clearly, you don't understand it yourself -- John Searle
 




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