i have heard there are good ones and bad ones any suggestions?
i am guessing the ones that give mild shock are the bad ones? others
give citranella (sp) spray.......

On Jun 21, 10:48 am, Khloe wrote:
i have heard there are good ones and bad ones any suggestions?
i am guessing the ones that give mild shock are the bad ones? others
give citranella (sp) spray.......

It all depends upon how they are used. They are all tools, and they
all can be misused. Personally head halters are bad because they can
damage the dog's spine since they apply force at an angle their neck
is not designed to handle. "Shock" collars used correctly are
perfectly fine. Don't believe me, try it out on yourself. The
settings most people use them on are just an irritation. The high
settings are endurable, but would certainly make me reconsider doing
what I just did. But used correctly most dogs would never see those
settings from what I have seen.

It would be better if you gave a description of what you need a
training collar for. What you hope to accomplish. If the people here
know what you want to accomplish they will be better equipped to give
you suggestions. Ideally, an in person trainer would be your best
option that way the correct use for the training collar can be
demonstrated. Personally, if you find a trainer who tells you head
halters are the only one to use and the other collars are all cruel
torture devices, find another trainer. Similarly, if you find one who
tells you electric collars are the only one to use and the other ones
will never give you results because..., find another trainer.

Nick

On Jun 21, 9:48 am, Khloe wrote:
i have heard there are good ones and bad ones any suggestions?
i am guessing the ones that give mild shock are the bad ones? others
give citranella (sp) spray.......

Most shock collars I have seen have a setting knob on them that you
can set the strength from 1 to anywhere to 20 or so. I have a blog
that explains how to use a shock collar and how to use slip collars as
well. I went to a seminar where a professional trainer showed us the
proper use of shock collars and slip collars. I was impressed at how
effective they can be if they are used correctly, and that is the key,
USING THEM CORRECTLY.


Here is my blog if you would like to check it out.

http://help-train-my-dog.blogspot.com/

"Khloe" wrote in message
...
i have heard there are good ones and bad ones any suggestions?

I wouldn't even BEGIN to give a suggestion for a "training collar" without
knowing
a) What sort of training you want to use the collar for
b) Your dog's size, age, personality, previous level of training, etc. etc.
c) Your level of skill and experience in handling and training dogs.



A "training collar" can be any one of the following (and I'm probably
forgetting some):

1) Slip collar, aka "choke collar", made of:
a) chain link in various widths
b) round nylon or leather
c) flat nylon or leather

2) "Pinch" or "prong" collar, with blunt metal prong links and limited choke
action

3) "Prong" collar made of leather with sharp metal spikes pointing inwards
and unlimited choke action

4) "Combo" or "martingale" collar, made of flat leather or nylon, with
leather/nylon closing loop

5) Same as above, but with a metal link closing loop for additional sound
cue

5) Headcollars, aka "gentle leaders", "haltis" etc. (which work by causing
discomfort to the sensitive bridge of the nose)

6) Remote electronic collars, aka "shock collars", the "shock" of which is
stimulating the neck muscles in a way similar to a medical "Tens"
machine; modern ones have adjustable levels, some also vibrate and/or beep

7) Remote collars which spray citronella

8) "Bark" collars, which either give a shock or spray citronella when the
dog barks

9) "Invisible fence" collars, which shock when a barrier is crossed

10) Plain old-fashioned flat collars

There are also several types of training harnesses.




And all of them are "good" or "bad" purely in relation to the skills of the
person using them, plus the appropriateness of the tool to the individual
dog.

For example, I used a remote electric collar, set to a low level, to proof
off-leash recall with my Jack Russell Terrier. For her, it was an
appropriate tool; like most JRTs, she was very confident and physically
tough, and the collar sensation to her was the same as a light tug on a
leash.

But for my very physically sensitive lurcher, a remote collar is NOT an
appropriate tool; even a very light collar tap is too strong for her. Nor is
the so called "humane" head collar an appropriate tool; she finds the nose
pressure and head confinement painful and terrifying.
For her, the best "training collar" was a heavy large-link "pinch" collar -
she didn't mind that at all. (The small link pinch collar which most would
have recommended for her was also inappropriate because it snagged in her
fur, and she hates having her fur pulled. Yes, she's something of a prima
donna.)

Last but not least, a training collar (or harness) should be used FOR
training, and phased out as the dog becomes trained.



i am guessing the ones that give mild shock are the bad ones? others
give citranella (sp) spray.......

Again, a tool is only as good or bad as the person using it and whether the
use is approprite to the individual dog's training needs.

For most beginning or unskilled handlers, IMO the most appropriate tool is
either a pinch collar or a martingale collar; most of the other collars
require a higher level of skill.

Despite their high popularity and the way they're touted as "humane", I'm
an un-fan of head collars; in addition to thinking it inapproprite to choose
the sensitive bridge of the nose, rather than the neck muscles, as the area
to put pressure on, canine chiropracters and vets of my acquaintence report
a much higher incidence of neck and shoulder problems in dogs whose owners
use them for any length of time - and yes, that includes "correct" use. IMO,
at the very least, they shouldn't be used unless you are capable of training
equally on the left and right side.
IMO, the training harnesses which work the same way, but on the dog's
shoulder assembly, are a much better choice.

I also consider citronella collars both inhumane and a poor training choice;
inhumane because they work by spraying a noxious substance which affects the
dog's sensitive nose, and a poor training choice because the smell CONTINUES
to affect the dog after the moment of correction.
Not to mention that they're obnoxious and noxious to other dogs and humans
nearby.

Sarah F.
NATCH-2 Brenin, CGC; AD; Triple Triple Superior, TN-E, O-TG-E
Gwydion, Buddha Cat
NATCH-3 Morag Thistledown, Triple Triple Superior, Triple Versatility,
S-TN-E, O-TG-E
Robyn Roofwalker, Master of Meezer Mischief

one is shepard chow mix and the other is chocalate lab mix
the shepard need help with barking and not scaring kids at campgrounds
the lab seems to want to whine real load and almost barks which is
scarier than the barking. Want to camp without worrying wabout dogs
scarring the crap out of others or anoyying other campers


On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 13:54:17 -0400, "Sionnach"
wrote:


"Khloe" wrote in message
.. .
i have heard there are good ones and bad ones any suggestions?

I wouldn't even BEGIN to give a suggestion for a "training collar" without
knowing
a) What sort of training you want to use the collar for
b) Your dog's size, age, personality, previous level of training, etc. etc.
c) Your level of skill and experience in handling and training dogs.



A "training collar" can be any one of the following (and I'm probably
forgetting some):

1) Slip collar, aka "choke collar", made of:
a) chain link in various widths
b) round nylon or leather
c) flat nylon or leather

2) "Pinch" or "prong" collar, with blunt metal prong links and limited choke
action

3) "Prong" collar made of leather with sharp metal spikes pointing inwards
and unlimited choke action

4) "Combo" or "martingale" collar, made of flat leather or nylon, with
leather/nylon closing loop

5) Same as above, but with a metal link closing loop for additional sound
cue

5) Headcollars, aka "gentle leaders", "haltis" etc. (which work by causing
discomfort to the sensitive bridge of the nose)

6) Remote electronic collars, aka "shock collars", the "shock" of which is
stimulating the neck muscles in a way similar to a medical "Tens"
machine; modern ones have adjustable levels, some also vibrate and/or beep

7) Remote collars which spray citronella

8) "Bark" collars, which either give a shock or spray citronella when the
dog barks

9) "Invisible fence" collars, which shock when a barrier is crossed

10) Plain old-fashioned flat collars

There are also several types of training harnesses.




And all of them are "good" or "bad" purely in relation to the skills of the
person using them, plus the appropriateness of the tool to the individual
dog.

For example, I used a remote electric collar, set to a low level, to proof
off-leash recall with my Jack Russell Terrier. For her, it was an
appropriate tool; like most JRTs, she was very confident and physically
tough, and the collar sensation to her was the same as a light tug on a
leash.

But for my very physically sensitive lurcher, a remote collar is NOT an
appropriate tool; even a very light collar tap is too strong for her. Nor is
the so called "humane" head collar an appropriate tool; she finds the nose
pressure and head confinement painful and terrifying.
For her, the best "training collar" was a heavy large-link "pinch" collar -
she didn't mind that at all. (The small link pinch collar which most would
have recommended for her was also inappropriate because it snagged in her
fur, and she hates having her fur pulled. Yes, she's something of a prima
donna.)

Last but not least, a training collar (or harness) should be used FOR
training, and phased out as the dog becomes trained.



i am guessing the ones that give mild shock are the bad ones? others
give citranella (sp) spray.......

Again, a tool is only as good or bad as the person using it and whether the
use is approprite to the individual dog's training needs.

For most beginning or unskilled handlers, IMO the most appropriate tool is
either a pinch collar or a martingale collar; most of the other collars
require a higher level of skill.

Despite their high popularity and the way they're touted as "humane", I'm
an un-fan of head collars; in addition to thinking it inapproprite to choose
the sensitive bridge of the nose, rather than the neck muscles, as the area
to put pressure on, canine chiropracters and vets of my acquaintence report
a much higher incidence of neck and shoulder problems in dogs whose owners
use them for any length of time - and yes, that includes "correct" use. IMO,
at the very least, they shouldn't be used unless you are capable of training
equally on the left and right side.
IMO, the training harnesses which work the same way, but on the dog's
shoulder assembly, are a much better choice.

I also consider citronella collars both inhumane and a poor training choice;
inhumane because they work by spraying a noxious substance which affects the
dog's sensitive nose, and a poor training choice because the smell CONTINUES
to affect the dog after the moment of correction.
Not to mention that they're obnoxious and noxious to other dogs and humans
nearby.

Sarah F.
NATCH-2 Brenin, CGC; AD; Triple Triple Superior, TN-E, O-TG-E
Gwydion, Buddha Cat
NATCH-3 Morag Thistledown, Triple Triple Superior, Triple Versatility,
S-TN-E, O-TG-E
Robyn Roofwalker, Master of Meezer Mischief

In article ,
Khloe wrote:

one is shepard chow mix and the other is chocalate lab mix
the shepard need help with barking and not scaring kids at campgrounds
the lab seems to want to whine real load and almost barks which is
scarier than the barking. Want to camp without worrying wabout dogs
scarring the crap out of others or anoyying other campers

YOU need to train them, not rely on collars to. I don't have anything
against electronic bark collars, but they should be used in conjunction
with actually working at training your dog(s). They aren't a quick fix.

Teaching your dogs proper camping manners is something you need to put
effort into.

--
Janet Boss
www.bestfriendsdogobedience.com