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John & Amy Dahl books on sale
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For those interested in that sort of thing, gundogsupply.com has a John and Amy Dahl book combo on sale. I expect most people remember Amy's posts here. Anyway, http://www.gundogsupply.com/dahl-books.html (They've also got the best dog first aid kits I've come across, which is how I ended up on their mailing list) -- Melinda Shore - Software longa, hardware brevis - Prouder than ever to be a member of the reality-based community |
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John & Amy Dahl books on sale
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wrote in message ... HOWEDY malinda you pathetic miserable stinkin rotten lyin animal murderin punk thug coward active accute chronic life long incurable malignant maliciHOWES MENTAL CASE, "Melinda Shore" wrote in message ... [] For those interested in that sort of thing, gundogsupply.com has a John and Amy Dahl book combo on sale. That's curiHOWES. john "STICK MAN" and amy "lying frosty" dahl are notoriHOWES liars an dog abusin cowards and active accute chronic life long incurable malignant maliciHOWES mental cases, like yourself {}: ~ ( I expect most people remember Amy's posts here. INDEED? Well, if not, NOT TO WORRY, malinda, I'll simply CITE a few of her lyin dog abusin posts to heelp you enlighten your fellHOWE dog lovers {}: ~ ) Anyway, You mean, 'anyHOWE', malinda {}: ~ ) snip link (They've also got the best dog first aid kits I've come across, which is how I ended up on their mailing list) Well, with references like THAT, we should all buy WON, eh? HERE'S REALITY, malinda: "I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A Dog I Do Not Believe There Is A Single Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A Dog Is Anything But Destructive," dahl. LUCKY thing CHIN CHUCK absolutely don't mean slap the goddamned dog, we'd look like a conspiracy of LIARS and DOG abusers if CHIN CHUCK DID mean SLAP the dog. "I don't see why anyone would want to choke or beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get a good working dog by making them unhapper, fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl. DOES THAT SOUND LIKE THE TRUTH? lying frosty dahl sez she doesn't twist: "None of my posts, prior to or subsequent to Jerry Howe's attacks, encourage anyone to twist ears, beat dogs, confront, intimidate, frighten, or any of the crap he constantly attributes to me," lying frosty dahl. ----------------------- lying frosty dahl wrote: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in With your hand on the collar and ear, say, 'fetch.' Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say 'fetch' while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. "On the other extreme, the really hard dogs we have trained require much more frequent and heavy application of pressure (PAIN j.h.) to get the job done, This is continued resistance to your increasing authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome" Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. EXXXCEPT St. Francis HURT dogs an LIE abHOWET IT. LIKE THIS: From: Amy Dahl Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 Subject: David + Goliath = Blinding Animals With Slingshot (ninnyboy added for killfiles) Ed Williams wrote: On the other hand, if you have been defamed in a newsgroup by Jerry Howe here is a link you may find helpful: http://www.wwwinternetweblaw.com/defamation.htm Thanks, Ed, I'll take a look. Did Jerry make a guess as to what the slingshot is for? Did he correctly guess that we use it on a water blind to make a splash in the water ahead of the dog, to help him understand that there's something ahead of him to retrieve? It's a lot longer range than throwing rocks. Amy Dahl --------------------- INDEED? "Amy Dahl" wrote in message ... diddy wrote: [] They just aren't my thing. I DO like working with soft dogs. And I guess I've never met a soft Lab. They remind me of lumber wagons. Well, there are many such Labs, but they probably weren't field-bred. IME there are lots of soft Labs, and some of the recent field-bred dogs are among the worst. In the 60's, when you worked with them, if I understand correctly, they were probably more consistently tough and resilient. That's the traditional nature of the breed. Trainer Mike Lardy thinks we are getting the softer, more sensitive dogs today because training methods using modern e-collars are so much better and more gentle than they used to be, it doesn't take a tough dog to come through training in good shape. I think it's a plausible argument. Doesn't fit the stereotype the ignorant have of e-collars. We still get a few that are happy and eager no matter what we do to them. Amy Dahl ---------------------- From: "Jerry Howe" Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 16:54:36 GMT Subject: David + Goliath = Blinding Animals With Slingshot "We also use slingshots but the expense is hard to calculate. John carves them out of dogwood, spending many, many hours to make one. If you are assuming you know what we do with those and you've never trained a retriever to do a water blind, you're probably wrong," lying frosty dahl. Hello People. Seems both amy dahl and wm koehler enjoy shooting dogs with BB's or a good slingshot. Here's a few words from a couple of our expert trainers on the high maintenance costs of beating and shocking dogs in training. At one dollar per inch for a genuine hickory whupping stick, it almost pays to just THUMP IT by hand, or just turn up the juice on the sadoelectric shockcollar, but all in all, the whuppin stick is the most effective, albeit expensive way to communicate in a language our dogs understand, as our pal steve boyer likes to say. lyingfrosty dahl says: "Shortly after Blackie came in for training, at 2 1/2 years of age, John was running the dog on some lining problems when Blackie stopped midway to the dummies and plastered his nose to the ground. He was glued to bitch scent from a female who had run the test previously. John ran out, grabbed Blackie by the collar, and gave the dog two or three medium whacks on the rump with a training stick while holding him partially off the ground. John then told Blackie to sit, ran back to the line and cast him back to the dummies. Blackie responded beautifully and we can't remember his ever putting his nose down while being run on a test again. He was an example of a dog having all the right characteristics of a competitive retriever while soft enough to learn the lessons quickly and with little pressure (PAIN). FC Oak Hill Exponent (Pudge) was another example of a soft dog with great drive, speed, and cold water ability. Pudge was so soft that she could and would avoid a simple swat on the rump with a riding crop, even when on a check cord. This form of softness, moving quickly to avoid physical correction, made her difficult in some ways, but she was so susceptible to what pressure (PAIN j.h.) we were able to apply that her learning rate was almost unbelievable. When she was three years old, even though she was an excellent marker, she couldn't do tests having two bird throwers close together. Faced with this situtation, Pudge couldn't decide which one to go to and would pop (stop and look back) out of confusion. This behavior was making it difficult to teach her the more challenging marking tests. Pudge had had two force-on-back programs with a stick and a long 100-yd cord before this and was well forced to go. John's solution to the popping on marks was to put the electric collar on her -- with no preliminary conditioning we are ashamed to say, as we would not do this today -- and send Pudge on her marks. When she popped he would give the back cast with transmitter in hand, nick her lightly with the collar, and holler "Back!" This worked so well that after two or three sessions of this kind Pudge stopped popping, drove back to her birds, and made her FC within the year. On the other extreme, the really hard dogs we have trained require much more frequent and heavy application of pressure (PAIN j.h.) to get the job done. Such were Dual Ch/AFC Warpath Macho, who was extremely difficult to get to stop on a whistle, and FC Penney's Nifty Bouncer, who had convinced himself and almost us that he would never wait until he was sent to take off after a bird. Both of these dogs, although excellent performers, needed frequent and convincing use of physical force to keep them under wraps. They, too, were happy, hard workers, but being tough they were higher maintenance dogs in training." Yeah. Are there any two letters in the alphabet (FC, JH, CH, etc.) worth beating your dog over? Any "trainer" who has to hurt their dog to make him work, should get the hell out of this business and leave the work to those who know HOWE to outwit a puppy dog without beating him. If you or anyone you know has been harmed by a pet care professional, I'll provide FREE expert witness testimony for worthwhile cases seeking criminal prosecution. Please call or write: Jerry Howe, Director of Training, Wits' End Dog Training Director of Research, BIOSOUND Scientific 1611 24th St Orlando, FL 32805 Fax: (208)460-4270 Phone: 1-407-425-5092 "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House, 1996" BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them, so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won't make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don't always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you're not present. Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you've walked to a point where he'll think you're gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog's hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he's still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him. He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt that it's even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you'll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like gambling. Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you're hiding nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be watching and listening for the signs of your actual going. Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing clothes and being unusually noisy as you slam the doors on the family car and drive away. Arrange with a friend to trade cars a block or two from your house so you can come back and park within earshot without a single familiar sound to tell the dog you've returned. A few of these car changes are generally enough to fool the most alert dog. Whether your dog believes you are gone anytime you step out of the house or requires the production of changing clothes and driving off, keep working until even your neighbors admit the dog has reformed. If there has been a long history of barking and whining, it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when you're not around, so give the above method an honest try before you presume your dog requires a more severe correction." |
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