A dog & canine forum. DogBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » DogBanter forum » Dog forums » Dog behavior
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

John & Amy Dahl books on sale



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old January 17th 08, 05:28 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Melinda Shore
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 7,732
Default John & Amy Dahl books on sale

[]
For those interested in that sort of thing, gundogsupply.com
has a John and Amy Dahl book combo on sale. I expect most
people remember Amy's posts here. Anyway,
http://www.gundogsupply.com/dahl-books.html

(They've also got the best dog first aid kits I've come
across, which is how I ended up on their mailing list)
--
Melinda Shore - Software longa, hardware brevis -

Prouder than ever to be a member of the reality-based community
  #2  
Old January 18th 08, 01:32 PM posted to rec.pets.dogs.behavior,rec.pets.dogs.breeds,alt.animals.dog,alt.pets.dogs.labrador,alt.pets.dogs.pitbull
WGD
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3
Default John & Amy Dahl books on sale

Your web link does not work.


wrote in message
...
HOWEDY malinda you pathetic miserable stinkin rotten
lyin animal murderin punk thug coward active accute chronic
life long incurable malignant maliciHOWES MENTAL CASE,

"Melinda Shore" wrote in message
...
[]
For those interested in that sort of thing, gundogsupply.com
has a John and Amy Dahl book combo on sale.


That's curiHOWES. john "STICK MAN" and amy "lying
frosty" dahl are notoriHOWES liars an dog abusin cowards
and active accute chronic life long incurable malignant
maliciHOWES mental cases, like yourself {}: ~ (

I expect most people remember Amy's posts here.


INDEED? Well, if not, NOT TO WORRY, malinda, I'll
simply CITE a few of her lyin dog abusin posts to heelp
you enlighten your fellHOWE dog lovers {}: ~ )

Anyway,


You mean, 'anyHOWE', malinda {}: ~ )

snip link

(They've also got the best dog first aid kits I've come
across, which is how I ended up on their mailing list)


Well, with references like THAT, we should all buy WON, eh?

HERE'S REALITY, malinda:

"I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A
Dog I Do Not Believe There Is A Single
Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A
Dog Is Anything But Destructive," dahl.

LUCKY thing CHIN CHUCK absolutely don't
mean slap the goddamned dog, we'd look like
a conspiracy of LIARS and DOG abusers if
CHIN CHUCK DID mean SLAP the dog.

"I don't see why anyone would want to choke or
beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get
a good working dog by making them unhapper,
fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl.

DOES THAT SOUND LIKE THE TRUTH?

lying frosty dahl sez she doesn't twist:

"None of my posts, prior to or subsequent to
Jerry Howe's attacks, encourage anyone to
twist ears, beat dogs, confront, intimidate,
frighten, or any of the crap he constantly
attributes to me," lying frosty dahl.

-----------------------

lying frosty dahl wrote:

"Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have
a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,
less tractable dogs may require you to progress to
striking them more sharply.

REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

Now you are ready to progress to what most
people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.

Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so
urgent that resisting your will fades in importance.

but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to
escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch
the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth,
get out the shotshell.

Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the
collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually,
the dog will give in

With your hand on the collar and ear, say, 'fetch.'

Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick.

Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy.
You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your
thumb; Say 'fetch' while pressing the dummy against its lips
and pinching its ear.

"On the other extreme, the really hard dogs
we have trained require much more frequent
and heavy application of pressure (PAIN j.h.)
to get the job done,

This is continued resistance to your
increasing authority, and the job is
not done until it is overcome"

Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like
St. Francis. EXXXCEPT St. Francis HURT dogs
an LIE abHOWET IT.

LIKE THIS:

From: Amy Dahl
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001

Subject: David + Goliath = Blinding Animals
With Slingshot (ninnyboy added for killfiles)

Ed Williams wrote:

On the other hand, if you have been defamed in a
newsgroup by Jerry Howe here is a link you may find helpful:


http://www.wwwinternetweblaw.com/defamation.htm


Thanks, Ed, I'll take a look. Did Jerry make a guess as
to what the slingshot is for? Did he correctly guess that
we use it on a water blind to make a splash in the water
ahead of the dog, to help him understand that there's something
ahead of him to retrieve? It's a lot longer range than
throwing rocks.

Amy Dahl

---------------------

INDEED?

"Amy Dahl" wrote in message
...

diddy wrote:
[]
They just aren't my thing. I DO like working with
soft dogs. And I guess I've never met a soft Lab.
They remind me of lumber wagons.


Well, there are many such Labs, but they probably
weren't field-bred.


IME there are lots of soft Labs, and some of the recent
field-bred dogs are among the worst. In the 60's, when
you worked with them, if I understand correctly, they
were probably more consistently tough and resilient.

That's the traditional nature of the breed.

Trainer Mike Lardy thinks we are getting the softer,
more sensitive dogs today because training methods
using modern e-collars are so much better and more
gentle than they used to be, it doesn't take a tough
dog to come through training in good shape. I think
it's a plausible argument.

Doesn't fit the stereotype the ignorant have of e-collars.
We still get a few that are happy and eager no
matter what we do to them.

Amy Dahl

----------------------

From: "Jerry Howe"
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 16:54:36 GMT
Subject: David + Goliath = Blinding Animals With Slingshot

"We also use slingshots but the expense is hard to calculate.
John carves them out of dogwood, spending many, many hours
to make one. If you are assuming you know what we do with
those and you've never trained a retriever to do a water
blind, you're probably wrong," lying frosty dahl.

Hello People.

Seems both amy dahl and wm koehler enjoy shooting
dogs with BB's or a good slingshot.

Here's a few words from a couple of our expert trainers on
the high maintenance costs of beating and shocking dogs in
training. At one dollar per inch for a genuine hickory
whupping stick, it almost pays to just THUMP IT by hand, or
just turn up the juice on the sadoelectric shockcollar, but
all in all, the whuppin stick is the most effective, albeit
expensive way to communicate in a language our dogs understand,
as our pal steve boyer likes to say.

lyingfrosty dahl says:
"Shortly after Blackie came in for training, at 2 1/2 years
of age, John was running the dog on some lining problems
when Blackie stopped midway to the dummies and plastered his
nose to the ground. He was glued to bitch scent from a female
who had run the test previously.

John ran out, grabbed Blackie by the collar, and gave the
dog two or three medium whacks on the rump with a
training stick while holding him partially off the ground.
John then told Blackie to sit, ran back to the line and cast
him back to the dummies. Blackie responded beautifully and
we can't remember his ever putting his nose down while being
run on a test again. He was an example of a dog having all
the right characteristics of a competitive retriever while
soft enough to learn the lessons quickly and with little
pressure (PAIN).

FC Oak Hill Exponent (Pudge) was another example of a
soft dog with great drive, speed, and cold water ability.

Pudge was so soft that she could and would avoid a simple
swat on the rump with a riding crop, even when on a check
cord. This form of softness, moving quickly to avoid physical
correction, made her difficult in some ways, but she was so
susceptible to what pressure (PAIN j.h.) we were able
to apply that her learning rate was almost unbelievable.

When she was three years old, even though she was an
excellent marker, she couldn't do tests having two bird
throwers close together. Faced with this situtation, Pudge
couldn't decide which one to go to and would pop (stop and
look back) out of confusion. This behavior was making
it difficult to teach her the more challenging marking tests.
Pudge had had two force-on-back programs with a stick and
a long 100-yd cord before this and was well forced to go.

John's solution to the popping on marks was to put the
electric collar on her -- with no preliminary conditioning
we are ashamed to say, as we would not do this today -- and
send Pudge on her marks. When she popped he would give the
back cast with transmitter in hand, nick her lightly with
the collar, and holler "Back!" This worked so well that after
two or three sessions of this kind Pudge stopped popping,
drove back to her birds, and made her FC within the year.

On the other extreme, the really hard dogs we have trained
require much more frequent and heavy application of
pressure (PAIN j.h.) to get the job done. Such were Dual
Ch/AFC Warpath Macho, who was extremely difficult to get
to stop on a whistle, and FC Penney's Nifty Bouncer, who
had convinced himself and almost us that he would never
wait until he was sent to take off after a bird.

Both of these dogs, although excellent performers, needed
frequent and convincing use of physical force to keep them
under wraps. They, too, were happy, hard workers, but being
tough they were higher maintenance dogs in training."

Yeah. Are there any two letters in the alphabet
(FC, JH, CH, etc.) worth beating your dog over?

Any "trainer" who has to hurt their dog to make him work,
should get the hell out of this business and leave the work
to those who know HOWE to outwit a puppy dog without beating him.

If you or anyone you know has been harmed by a pet care
professional, I'll provide FREE expert witness testimony for
worthwhile cases seeking criminal prosecution.

Please call or write:

Jerry Howe,
Director of Training,
Wits' End Dog Training
Director of Research,
BIOSOUND Scientific
1611 24th St
Orlando, FL 32805
Fax: (208)460-4270
Phone: 1-407-425-5092


"The Koehler Method of Dog Training"
Howell Book House, 1996"

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain
you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were
against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet
them, so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in
his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more
emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one
that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at
familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from
a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of
temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his
mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless you
supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he
thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don't always come at
the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs
with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As
was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not
lessen the dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more
discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because
you're gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical
for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater
to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have to heed
the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little
ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective effort
doesn't turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a
stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will
also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog
drags it around when you're not present. Next, equip yourself with a
man's leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular
dog a good tanning.

Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard. Remember,
you're dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and
neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does.

Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going.
When you've walked to a point where he'll think you're gone but
where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If
you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful
not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog's hearing to be many times as
sharp as yours.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so
you can barge in while he's still barking, which is generally
impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of
"out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you've
conveniently placed, and descend on him. He'll have no chance to
dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are
raised off the floor or, if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him
up with a hitch on something. While he's held in close, lay the
strap vigorously against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter end. A real
whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat
performances that will be necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on
a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After
fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the
area again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great
percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end
up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I've
always felt that it's even better to spank children, even if they
"cry out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your
dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range
bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat
the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that
you'll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a
full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he
gets away with his concert part of the time, he'll be apt to gamble
on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will
be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him
without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just
a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like gambling.

Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you're hiding
nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you
have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe
his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be
watching and listening for the signs of your actual going.

Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing
clothes and being unusually noisy as you slam the doors on the
family car and drive away. Arrange with a friend to trade cars a
block or two from your house so you can come back and park within
earshot without a single familiar sound to tell the dog you've
returned. A few of these car changes are generally enough to fool
the most alert dog.

Whether your dog believes you are gone anytime you step out of the
house or requires the production of changing clothes and driving
off, keep working until even your neighbors admit the dog has
reformed. If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when
you're not around, so give the above method an honest try before
you presume your dog requires a more severe correction."




 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
ping: Amy Dahl Judith Althouse Dog behavior 1 November 27th 06 12:44 AM
ping: Amy Dahl Marcel Beaudoin Dog behavior 3 November 21st 06 10:21 PM
ping: Amy Dahl Amy Dahl Dog behavior 0 November 21st 06 12:39 AM
hey John gotlimu4life Dog health 0 September 12th 06 01:53 PM
John Rogerson 10 Day Course in USA [email protected] Dog behavior 0 July 19th 06 12:22 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.2.0 (Unauthorized Upgrade)
Copyright ©2004-2024 DogBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.