Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?
Thanks, Bill

On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:29:08 -0800 Bill Bauer whittled these words:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?

They may work for a short while to interupt the patterned behavior. If
the circumstances causing the dog to bark remain unchanged then quite
often (not always) either the dog resumes bark regardless of its
discomfort or it engages in other stress relieving activity. That
activity could be anything from digging and destructiveness, to
aggression, to self-mutilation.

The best way to handle a barking dog problem permanently is to change the
environment so the dog does not need to bark, or to work on reducing the
dog's reactivity to the stimulous. While some dogs bark just for the joy
of barking, most nuiseance barking is an expression of anxiety. They are
nervous, fearful, stressed or perhaps bored. Punishing the dog if it is
feeling anxious, fearful or stressed will make the problem worse.

Typical reasons dogs engage in nuisance barking:

Dog is alone, no pack members around for back-up, and the dog has no means
to retreat to the den. The den is where the pack members sleep. It is
also a space that is defensible because it is partially enclosed thus
reducing the directions from which an intruder can appear.

The dog is attempting to protect a space too large for it to effectivly
protect. For dogs that are trying to protect their territory very large
open areas are very frustrating because the dog simply can't cover all the
vulnerable points.

Dog is bored and barking is a good boredom reliever.

Dog is anxious about being alone and barking is his means of contact with
others.

The least expensive and most effective solution of nuisance barking is to
bring the dog indoors and/or reduce the amount of room the dog has to
"protect." For an indoor dog excluding the dog from being able to view
the public street or other source of stimulation often works well. For
example, keeping the dog in the kitchen or back bedroom.

If access to outside during the day is necessary or desireable using a run
with a dog door leading back into the house is often effective IF the dog
is also screened from viewing stimlating activites beyond the property
lines, but not screened from everything. In other words if you enclose on
three sides the dog then focusses on protecting that vulnerable 4th side.
If you enclose all 4 sides the dog will not have anything to focus on and
will continue to feel anxious - or at least that is frequently the way it
works. Again, not always. Keeping the run set back from the property
line can create a situation in which the dog is not stimulated by
non-trespassers but can see and react to actual trespassers. If the run
is covered and locked it also enhances the ability of the dog to protect
the house, since it can get in there, but not be easily poisoned or
otherwise "taken out".

Diane Blackman

On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:29:08 -0800 Bill Bauer whittled these words:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?

They may work for a short while to interupt the patterned behavior. If
the circumstances causing the dog to bark remain unchanged then quite
often (not always) either the dog resumes bark regardless of its
discomfort or it engages in other stress relieving activity. That
activity could be anything from digging and destructiveness, to
aggression, to self-mutilation.

The best way to handle a barking dog problem permanently is to change the
environment so the dog does not need to bark, or to work on reducing the
dog's reactivity to the stimulous. While some dogs bark just for the joy
of barking, most nuiseance barking is an expression of anxiety. They are
nervous, fearful, stressed or perhaps bored. Punishing the dog if it is
feeling anxious, fearful or stressed will make the problem worse.

Typical reasons dogs engage in nuisance barking:

Dog is alone, no pack members around for back-up, and the dog has no means
to retreat to the den. The den is where the pack members sleep. It is
also a space that is defensible because it is partially enclosed thus
reducing the directions from which an intruder can appear.

The dog is attempting to protect a space too large for it to effectivly
protect. For dogs that are trying to protect their territory very large
open areas are very frustrating because the dog simply can't cover all the
vulnerable points.

Dog is bored and barking is a good boredom reliever.

Dog is anxious about being alone and barking is his means of contact with
others.

The least expensive and most effective solution of nuisance barking is to
bring the dog indoors and/or reduce the amount of room the dog has to
"protect." For an indoor dog excluding the dog from being able to view
the public street or other source of stimulation often works well. For
example, keeping the dog in the kitchen or back bedroom.

If access to outside during the day is necessary or desireable using a run
with a dog door leading back into the house is often effective IF the dog
is also screened from viewing stimlating activites beyond the property
lines, but not screened from everything. In other words if you enclose on
three sides the dog then focusses on protecting that vulnerable 4th side.
If you enclose all 4 sides the dog will not have anything to focus on and
will continue to feel anxious - or at least that is frequently the way it
works. Again, not always. Keeping the run set back from the property
line can create a situation in which the dog is not stimulated by
non-trespassers but can see and react to actual trespassers. If the run
is covered and locked it also enhances the ability of the dog to protect
the house, since it can get in there, but not be easily poisoned or
otherwise "taken out".

Diane Blackman

On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:29:08 -0800 Bill Bauer whittled these words:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?

They may work for a short while to interupt the patterned behavior. If
the circumstances causing the dog to bark remain unchanged then quite
often (not always) either the dog resumes bark regardless of its
discomfort or it engages in other stress relieving activity. That
activity could be anything from digging and destructiveness, to
aggression, to self-mutilation.

The best way to handle a barking dog problem permanently is to change the
environment so the dog does not need to bark, or to work on reducing the
dog's reactivity to the stimulous. While some dogs bark just for the joy
of barking, most nuiseance barking is an expression of anxiety. They are
nervous, fearful, stressed or perhaps bored. Punishing the dog if it is
feeling anxious, fearful or stressed will make the problem worse.

Typical reasons dogs engage in nuisance barking:

Dog is alone, no pack members around for back-up, and the dog has no means
to retreat to the den. The den is where the pack members sleep. It is
also a space that is defensible because it is partially enclosed thus
reducing the directions from which an intruder can appear.

The dog is attempting to protect a space too large for it to effectivly
protect. For dogs that are trying to protect their territory very large
open areas are very frustrating because the dog simply can't cover all the
vulnerable points.

Dog is bored and barking is a good boredom reliever.

Dog is anxious about being alone and barking is his means of contact with
others.

The least expensive and most effective solution of nuisance barking is to
bring the dog indoors and/or reduce the amount of room the dog has to
"protect." For an indoor dog excluding the dog from being able to view
the public street or other source of stimulation often works well. For
example, keeping the dog in the kitchen or back bedroom.

If access to outside during the day is necessary or desireable using a run
with a dog door leading back into the house is often effective IF the dog
is also screened from viewing stimlating activites beyond the property
lines, but not screened from everything. In other words if you enclose on
three sides the dog then focusses on protecting that vulnerable 4th side.
If you enclose all 4 sides the dog will not have anything to focus on and
will continue to feel anxious - or at least that is frequently the way it
works. Again, not always. Keeping the run set back from the property
line can create a situation in which the dog is not stimulated by
non-trespassers but can see and react to actual trespassers. If the run
is covered and locked it also enhances the ability of the dog to protect
the house, since it can get in there, but not be easily poisoned or
otherwise "taken out".

Diane Blackman

Said better than I could have - thanks Diane.

-Shannon (and Guinness)

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:29:08 -0800 Bill Bauer
whittled these words:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?

They may work for a short while to interupt the patterned behavior. If
the circumstances causing the dog to bark remain unchanged then quite
often (not always) either the dog resumes bark regardless of its
discomfort or it engages in other stress relieving activity. That
activity could be anything from digging and destructiveness, to
aggression, to self-mutilation.

The best way to handle a barking dog problem permanently is to change the
environment so the dog does not need to bark, or to work on reducing the
dog's reactivity to the stimulous. While some dogs bark just for the joy
of barking, most nuiseance barking is an expression of anxiety. They are
nervous, fearful, stressed or perhaps bored. Punishing the dog if it is
feeling anxious, fearful or stressed will make the problem worse.

Typical reasons dogs engage in nuisance barking:

Dog is alone, no pack members around for back-up, and the dog has no means
to retreat to the den. The den is where the pack members sleep. It is
also a space that is defensible because it is partially enclosed thus
reducing the directions from which an intruder can appear.

The dog is attempting to protect a space too large for it to effectivly
protect. For dogs that are trying to protect their territory very large
open areas are very frustrating because the dog simply can't cover all the
vulnerable points.

Dog is bored and barking is a good boredom reliever.

Dog is anxious about being alone and barking is his means of contact with
others.

The least expensive and most effective solution of nuisance barking is to
bring the dog indoors and/or reduce the amount of room the dog has to
"protect." For an indoor dog excluding the dog from being able to view
the public street or other source of stimulation often works well. For
example, keeping the dog in the kitchen or back bedroom.

If access to outside during the day is necessary or desireable using a run
with a dog door leading back into the house is often effective IF the dog
is also screened from viewing stimlating activites beyond the property
lines, but not screened from everything. In other words if you enclose on
three sides the dog then focusses on protecting that vulnerable 4th side.
If you enclose all 4 sides the dog will not have anything to focus on and
will continue to feel anxious - or at least that is frequently the way it
works. Again, not always. Keeping the run set back from the property
line can create a situation in which the dog is not stimulated by
non-trespassers but can see and react to actual trespassers. If the run
is covered and locked it also enhances the ability of the dog to protect
the house, since it can get in there, but not be easily poisoned or
otherwise "taken out".

Diane Blackman

Said better than I could have - thanks Diane.

-Shannon (and Guinness)

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:29:08 -0800 Bill Bauer
whittled these words:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?

They may work for a short while to interupt the patterned behavior. If
the circumstances causing the dog to bark remain unchanged then quite
often (not always) either the dog resumes bark regardless of its
discomfort or it engages in other stress relieving activity. That
activity could be anything from digging and destructiveness, to
aggression, to self-mutilation.

The best way to handle a barking dog problem permanently is to change the
environment so the dog does not need to bark, or to work on reducing the
dog's reactivity to the stimulous. While some dogs bark just for the joy
of barking, most nuiseance barking is an expression of anxiety. They are
nervous, fearful, stressed or perhaps bored. Punishing the dog if it is
feeling anxious, fearful or stressed will make the problem worse.

Typical reasons dogs engage in nuisance barking:

Dog is alone, no pack members around for back-up, and the dog has no means
to retreat to the den. The den is where the pack members sleep. It is
also a space that is defensible because it is partially enclosed thus
reducing the directions from which an intruder can appear.

The dog is attempting to protect a space too large for it to effectivly
protect. For dogs that are trying to protect their territory very large
open areas are very frustrating because the dog simply can't cover all the
vulnerable points.

Dog is bored and barking is a good boredom reliever.

Dog is anxious about being alone and barking is his means of contact with
others.

The least expensive and most effective solution of nuisance barking is to
bring the dog indoors and/or reduce the amount of room the dog has to
"protect." For an indoor dog excluding the dog from being able to view
the public street or other source of stimulation often works well. For
example, keeping the dog in the kitchen or back bedroom.

If access to outside during the day is necessary or desireable using a run
with a dog door leading back into the house is often effective IF the dog
is also screened from viewing stimlating activites beyond the property
lines, but not screened from everything. In other words if you enclose on
three sides the dog then focusses on protecting that vulnerable 4th side.
If you enclose all 4 sides the dog will not have anything to focus on and
will continue to feel anxious - or at least that is frequently the way it
works. Again, not always. Keeping the run set back from the property
line can create a situation in which the dog is not stimulated by
non-trespassers but can see and react to actual trespassers. If the run
is covered and locked it also enhances the ability of the dog to protect
the house, since it can get in there, but not be easily poisoned or
otherwise "taken out".

Diane Blackman

Said better than I could have - thanks Diane.

-Shannon (and Guinness)

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:29:08 -0800 Bill Bauer
whittled these words:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?

They may work for a short while to interupt the patterned behavior. If
the circumstances causing the dog to bark remain unchanged then quite
often (not always) either the dog resumes bark regardless of its
discomfort or it engages in other stress relieving activity. That
activity could be anything from digging and destructiveness, to
aggression, to self-mutilation.

The best way to handle a barking dog problem permanently is to change the
environment so the dog does not need to bark, or to work on reducing the
dog's reactivity to the stimulous. While some dogs bark just for the joy
of barking, most nuiseance barking is an expression of anxiety. They are
nervous, fearful, stressed or perhaps bored. Punishing the dog if it is
feeling anxious, fearful or stressed will make the problem worse.

Typical reasons dogs engage in nuisance barking:

Dog is alone, no pack members around for back-up, and the dog has no means
to retreat to the den. The den is where the pack members sleep. It is
also a space that is defensible because it is partially enclosed thus
reducing the directions from which an intruder can appear.

The dog is attempting to protect a space too large for it to effectivly
protect. For dogs that are trying to protect their territory very large
open areas are very frustrating because the dog simply can't cover all the
vulnerable points.

Dog is bored and barking is a good boredom reliever.

Dog is anxious about being alone and barking is his means of contact with
others.

The least expensive and most effective solution of nuisance barking is to
bring the dog indoors and/or reduce the amount of room the dog has to
"protect." For an indoor dog excluding the dog from being able to view
the public street or other source of stimulation often works well. For
example, keeping the dog in the kitchen or back bedroom.

If access to outside during the day is necessary or desireable using a run
with a dog door leading back into the house is often effective IF the dog
is also screened from viewing stimlating activites beyond the property
lines, but not screened from everything. In other words if you enclose on
three sides the dog then focusses on protecting that vulnerable 4th side.
If you enclose all 4 sides the dog will not have anything to focus on and
will continue to feel anxious - or at least that is frequently the way it
works. Again, not always. Keeping the run set back from the property
line can create a situation in which the dog is not stimulated by
non-trespassers but can see and react to actual trespassers. If the run
is covered and locked it also enhances the ability of the dog to protect
the house, since it can get in there, but not be easily poisoned or
otherwise "taken out".

Diane Blackman

Said better than I could have - thanks Diane.

-Shannon (and Guinness)

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:29:08 -0800 Bill Bauer
whittled these words:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?

They may work for a short while to interupt the patterned behavior. If
the circumstances causing the dog to bark remain unchanged then quite
often (not always) either the dog resumes bark regardless of its
discomfort or it engages in other stress relieving activity. That
activity could be anything from digging and destructiveness, to
aggression, to self-mutilation.

The best way to handle a barking dog problem permanently is to change the
environment so the dog does not need to bark, or to work on reducing the
dog's reactivity to the stimulous. While some dogs bark just for the joy
of barking, most nuiseance barking is an expression of anxiety. They are
nervous, fearful, stressed or perhaps bored. Punishing the dog if it is
feeling anxious, fearful or stressed will make the problem worse.

Typical reasons dogs engage in nuisance barking:

Dog is alone, no pack members around for back-up, and the dog has no means
to retreat to the den. The den is where the pack members sleep. It is
also a space that is defensible because it is partially enclosed thus
reducing the directions from which an intruder can appear.

The dog is attempting to protect a space too large for it to effectivly
protect. For dogs that are trying to protect their territory very large
open areas are very frustrating because the dog simply can't cover all the
vulnerable points.

Dog is bored and barking is a good boredom reliever.

Dog is anxious about being alone and barking is his means of contact with
others.

The least expensive and most effective solution of nuisance barking is to
bring the dog indoors and/or reduce the amount of room the dog has to
"protect." For an indoor dog excluding the dog from being able to view
the public street or other source of stimulation often works well. For
example, keeping the dog in the kitchen or back bedroom.

If access to outside during the day is necessary or desireable using a run
with a dog door leading back into the house is often effective IF the dog
is also screened from viewing stimlating activites beyond the property
lines, but not screened from everything. In other words if you enclose on
three sides the dog then focusses on protecting that vulnerable 4th side.
If you enclose all 4 sides the dog will not have anything to focus on and
will continue to feel anxious - or at least that is frequently the way it
works. Again, not always. Keeping the run set back from the property
line can create a situation in which the dog is not stimulated by
non-trespassers but can see and react to actual trespassers. If the run
is covered and locked it also enhances the ability of the dog to protect
the house, since it can get in there, but not be easily poisoned or
otherwise "taken out".

Diane Blackman

Bill Bauer wrote:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?
Thanks, Bill



I tried a citronella collar for my dog. I didn't like it for a number
of reasons.

The smell lingered in the air so the punishment continued after the
behavior was stopped.

My dog figured it out in no time. She wouldn't bark as much with the
collar on, knew she could bark when it was off.

The batteries wore out quickly and were expensive to replace.

It operated by responding to vibration. That meant it went off when my
dog barked but also when she went to give herself a nice dog shake as
when arising from a nap. I could see her getting into position to
shake, then thinking better of it. That, more than anything, convinced
me that I didn't like the collar. Who ever heard of a dog having to
think about moving her neck too much?

It didn't work to teach my dog the difference between barking at human
intruders (allowed and encouraged) and barking at squirrelly interlopers
(sigh we're used to it).

--Lia


This message will invariably be followed by a particularly vicious one.
Could you just ignore it? I'm trying to save time.

Bill Bauer wrote:
Do barking-control collars work? Any harm to the dog?
Thanks, Bill



I tried a citronella collar for my dog. I didn't like it for a number
of reasons.

The smell lingered in the air so the punishment continued after the
behavior was stopped.

My dog figured it out in no time. She wouldn't bark as much with the
collar on, knew she could bark when it was off.

The batteries wore out quickly and were expensive to replace.

It operated by responding to vibration. That meant it went off when my
dog barked but also when she went to give herself a nice dog shake as
when arising from a nap. I could see her getting into position to
shake, then thinking better of it. That, more than anything, convinced
me that I didn't like the collar. Who ever heard of a dog having to
think about moving her neck too much?

It didn't work to teach my dog the difference between barking at human
intruders (allowed and encouraged) and barking at squirrelly interlopers
(sigh we're used to it).

--Lia


This message will invariably be followed by a particularly vicious one.
Could you just ignore it? I'm trying to save time.